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YYFY!!! (Read 2103133 times)

SA Chris

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#600 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 09:42:32 am
Crucifiction*
[*haha nice typo]

It might be deliberate? Great name for a problem.

Serpico

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#601 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 10:22:58 am


1:43  Sounds like Jesus should be put on the register.

Palomides

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#602 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 11:21:49 am
http://www.youtube.com/v/dG9tuuznL1Y

(Also amusing is that Houds avatar has been replaced by a message from Photobucket about violating their terms of use. I can't imagine how Hitler pic can do that)

Or, for the ex-punks amongst us...
http://www.youtube.com/v/kzMjGbSoTj4

Sloper

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#603 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2009, 04:22:23 pm
An enjoyable afternoon at Curbar included the ultimate gritstone experiencee, I can't believe I've never seen this before, must have head my choss radar on rather than quality line asdic, anyway after doing the stand up on my third go (I missed the key hold on the flash and then faffed to failure on the second try) I did the sitter first try.  Not much I know but a good end to the day.

tommytwotone

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#604 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2009, 04:40:45 pm
Ohhh, interesting - was going to head out this afternoon but settled for getting shut down on the new Works comp wall problems instead. Off out this week so I'll seek it out!


tomtom

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#605 Re: YYFY!!!
April 16, 2009, 01:58:06 pm
Dreamland at the cliff. Done properly this time!!
I would like to say I went and nailed it, but it took me a good hour to figure the tall mans foot placements..
Great problem, it really teased me! Flash repeated a 6c traverse, so a good day at the cliff!
Tom

webbo

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#606 Re: YYFY!!!
April 16, 2009, 02:17:08 pm
An enjoyable afternoon at Curbar included the ultimate gritstone experiencee, I can't believe I've never seen this before, must have head my choss radar on rather than quality line asdic, anyway after doing the stand up on my third go (I missed the key hold on the flash and then faffed to failure on the second try) I did the sitter first try.  Not much I know but a good end to the day.
 
wasn't this block supposed to be falling over.

butters

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#607 Re: YYFY!!!
April 16, 2009, 02:24:20 pm
 
wasn't this block supposed to be falling over.

Well Sloper pulled onto it 4 times and it didn't seem to move but I was rather focused on beating a hasty tactical retreat spotting Sloper at the time so it could well have tipped over a few more degrees without me knowing about it.

TTT - go seek it out - fridge hugging with a bit of footwork thrown in - it is a quality problem to say the least.

bluebrad

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#608 Re: YYFY!!!
April 17, 2009, 11:51:25 am
YYFY - another Dumby classic gets crushed!

I've mainly been chuffing recently, but went down Dumby last night as the forecast was bon and rumours of fast repeats of Pongo Arete were in the air!

After a short (too short :spank:) warm-up, I was well psyched to try and flash Pongo-Arete. Now, I've done Pongo which shares most a fair few moves, so it would never be pure flash.

Anyhows, I managed to flash all the moves into where it joins Pongo, but couldn't retroflash the top :'(

Oh well.

I had another two goes, both times getting through to the final jugs and rockover, got pumped, fell off  :furious:

Some of the other guys then arrived and started having goes, Neil, who likes to believe he's weak and can't boulder, managed to get up it, using twice as many holds and half the power I do!

This returned the psyche, so I had a another go, got through to the final jugs again, rocked over, tried to snatch the good incut, failed, slapped a forearm on the jug, crimped the wrong side of the final block with the wrong hand, unleashed the knee and dispatched :-\ :-[

I'm pretty convinced I made the least stylish but most amusing top-out of that problem ever witnessed! Awesome  8)

My flatmate, the microbeast, then got on the sending train and topped out with a modicum more style than me  :thumbsup:

Quality problem and psyched to get my first Fb7a+ of the year!

Strange sore forearm today though - the muscle kind feels weird if I try to crush things. :-\
« Last Edit: April 17, 2009, 12:07:10 pm by Fultonius »

Fiend

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#609 Re: YYFY!!!
April 17, 2009, 11:54:31 am
What is Pongo arete?? Is it the arete right of Pongo - an unstarred 6b in the guide but has always looked better than that - from a sitter??

Fultonius

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#610 Re: YYFY!!!
April 17, 2009, 12:06:04 pm
Nah, that's still the unstarred 6b!

It starts on the holds directly below pongo crack (as for pongo sit start), LH into the crack, slap the arete. Move up the arete until you can move back left into the pinch and finger lock near the top of pongo, finish as for the other variants.

Probably my favourite of the different variants - really nice moves and much better since the trees got removed. The crux is the "roboclamp" and fingerlock!

Get on it next time you're about.

Chris (CJD) was hanging around eyeing up Supersize me!!!

GCW

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#611 Re: YYFY!!!
April 17, 2009, 12:06:43 pm
Pongo arete does the sitter for Pongo, but using the arete as well, then finishing up Pongo.  
The arete from sitting without holds on Pongo is awkward- Andy's Arete- to finish up the arete, about 7b+ ballpark.

IanP

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#612 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 07:21:22 am
In the spirit of this thread as a positive affirmation of everything that is great about climbing (rather than just a good opportunity to let everyone know you've got a good tick in  :great:) :

YYFY, ticked Baboo Baboo as my first 8a* yesterday.  Culmination of a campaign to try to make a proper effort to get fit which started as I approached my 40th birthday 2 years ago.

Very happy  ;D

Should maybe have a NNFN because I'm in the office at the moment but I don't really care.

* anyone who still thinks Baboo is 7c+ can feel free not to post

Monolith

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#613 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 10:25:47 am
Good effort Ian! Really pleased for you mate nice one! That unscrupulous Farnell chap has almost got me on the catwalk with you after his call last night.

magpie

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#614 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 11:38:43 am
It's not climbing related but I don't care.  I survived the Inverness to Glasgow bike ride! YYFY!!  :dance1:


nik at work

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#615 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 05:35:56 pm
Not quite the YYFY I was hoping for but still 7C in the forest (Carnage Assis) and 7B+ flash (Barre Fixe, yes I know it's soft) were the pleasing highlights of two weeks of fun in the forest :thumbsup:.

8A will have to wait until next year...

Paul B

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#616 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 05:54:14 pm
I struggle to see how adding a crappy sit start to Carnage made your week but each to their own (hope you didn't use the RH crimp up the top on the assis  :-[ )

nik at work

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#617 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 06:05:04 pm
Bleau says the right hand crimp is allowed :)

And yes OK it is a crappy sit start, there are other problems I'd rather have done but time/venue/temperature constraints meant this was the gradarific (if not the quality) high point.

I would however agree with you that Noir Desir is amazing and would be a far more fitting high point sadly the poor condition of the top slopy pocket scuppered my plans...

fatneck

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#618 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 06:53:50 pm
YYFY!
:beer1:

We just made our first final in 14 years! It's been coming and I think Moyes really deserves it.
Shit game but absolutely made up to beat the Mancs.
Nice one  ;D

Zods Beard

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#619 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 08:21:34 pm
I had to listen to this game in work with a load of Utd fans, made it all the more sweeter. Get in.

lagerstarfish

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#620 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 08:49:21 pm
7B+ flash (Barre Fixe, yes I know it's soft)

I'm interested to know what you think it should be; and how you did it. I have no idea what to think  :shrug:

nik at work

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#621 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 09:06:47 pm
What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.

nik at work

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#622 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 10:32:07 pm
Clip of Barre Fixe lagers.

robertostallioni

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#623 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 10:43:11 pm
I pissed that Nik, and I'm a homo. If you're taking 7b+ for that, I'll shave your head.     Oh.

(Well done on the carnage assiss business.)

GCW

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#624 Re: YYFY!!!
April 19, 2009, 10:57:25 pm
It's a morpho problem.  "Barre Fixe" translates literally as "easier for Benders".

 

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