YYFY!!! (Read 2102782 times)

hairich · March 30, 2009, 10:22:18 am

finally did electrical storm at burbage south yesterday after years of trying it very occasionally. thanks to jamie big hands for being there with great foot beta.

one of those that felt impossible to easy with the knowledge

Duncan Disorderly · March 30, 2009, 10:37:01 am

Yes Yes Fucking Yes!!

Managed to tick the Widdop classic Fight on Black yesterday! First 7b too.... Get in!

: D

Sloper · March 30, 2009, 11:04:21 am

Let me guess you lanked it.

Fancy a skive this pm and exploration of some local esoterica?

magpie · March 30, 2009, 11:15:10 am

Well done, Duncan.

Duncan Disorderly · March 30, 2009, 11:37:53 am

Cheers miss Pie... Hope your train home was uneventful and wierdo free..

Skins a bit thin today Sloppy old bean... Keen for tomorow tho... Could do with picking your brains a little too so lemme know if you've got a spare half hour this week....

And no I didn't lank it (I used the approved tall persons sequence

)

: D

neil h · March 30, 2009, 06:10:09 pm

Quote from: Duncan Disorderly on March 30, 2009, 10:37:01 am

Yes Yes Fucking Yes!!

Managed to tick the Widdop classic Fight on Black yesterday! First 7b too.... Get in!

: D

nice one duncs, you better have some skin left for font, dont want your tips going on the first day like every other year.

On a my YYFY moment of the day, I manages Sur-prise today, super classic font classic,

Duncan Disorderly · March 30, 2009, 09:01:40 pm

Cheers man.. Havin a full week off and bought some marigolds - skin'll be fine..

Effort on surprise...

: D

Doylo · March 31, 2009, 05:23:24 pm

Had a chuffing YYFY in Siurana yesterday, La Cara Que No Miente. Amazing amazing route. mega tufa followed by dyno to jug. Shikading.

saltbeef · March 31, 2009, 05:26:24 pm

passed my exam! get in!

hairich · March 31, 2009, 05:35:28 pm

fucking get in

GCW · March 31, 2009, 08:04:40 pm

MRCP?

saltbeef · March 31, 2009, 08:20:12 pm

i am indeed a member!

GCW · March 31, 2009, 08:40:30 pm

Nice one, member of the "other college"

Jim · March 31, 2009, 11:43:50 pm

no, saltbeef is a member (ie cock)

tomtom · April 01, 2009, 10:00:36 pm

My first YYFY! of the year.. Dreamland @ Almscliff... first F7a+

andy_e · April 01, 2009, 11:12:29 pm

Good effort! A very good 7a+ it is too!

ajh · April 01, 2009, 11:37:32 pm

More YYFY from Almscliff tonight, finally hauled my arse up Pebble Wall - been trying it on and off since about this time last year, never wanted to use the heel/toe thing as the prospect of tipping off backwards and landing with it still in place put me off but tonight with a couple of burly spotters (to hold my bulky arse in the air while I got it out in the event of failure), I gave it a go....got it first time, and what a brilliant problem it is!

In case he doesn't get on here but waddage to Rabies as well - he got Patta's, Steve's Wall, DWR, the 7a traverse into and up Morrell's Wall and Dolphin Belly Slap tonight...quite an evening!

Effort on Dreamland, Tomtom. Think I saw some people over by the wall trying it but they'd gone by the time I got there, guess you were with them? Out of interest, most of them seemed to be using a second sloper at the same height as the main one but in the break out L., did you use that and how do you think that affected the difficulty if so? I always assumed it was out but I don't want to be making life overly hard for myself...

tomtom · April 02, 2009, 07:59:44 am

Quote from: ajh on April 01, 2009, 11:37:32 pm

More YYFY from Almscliff tonight, finally hauled my arse up Pebble Wall - been trying it on and off since about this time last year, never wanted to use the heel/toe thing as the prospect of tipping off backwards and landing with it still in place put me off but tonight with a couple of burly spotters (to hold my bulky arse in the air while I got it out in the event of failure), I gave it a go....got it first time, and what a brilliant problem it is!

Good effort - yes it was us just leaving as you guys turned up... glad you got it ticked - its still evading me, but I worked a new sequence to get my feet in the right place at the start - so time to start on the upper part afresh!

Quote from: ajh on April 01, 2009, 11:37:32 pm

Effort on Dreamland, Tomtom. Think I saw some people over by the wall trying it but they'd gone by the time I got there, guess you were with them? Out of interest, most of them seemed to be using a second sloper at the same height as the main one but in the break out L., did you use that and how do you think that affected the difficulty if so? I always assumed it was out but I don't want to be making life overly hard for myself...

Yes again - that was us. Now, that hold on the left... I wasn't sure it was in, but a couple of the people we were there with were sure it was in... I used it, and having posted the above have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it..

First couple of tries I had I used just the single sloper and scrabbled my feet up - then used single sloper, scrabbled feet up, spanned across to the hold on the left, then popped a foot out left and reached up with my right... Is that harder or easier? I dont know. With retrospect before I can really claim the tick I need to go and do it the one hold way. Frustrating the whats in whats not in rules.. that hold on left didnt seem to be on an obvious line aside from dreamland..

For me, the first move - getting the sloper (much better on the RH side btw) is very morphodependant.. I'm tall and bobbed for it straight away but others really struggled. The gentle reach up on smears for the 2nd to last large hold/break was a real nice move - and that was quite tricky.
I suspect I didnt do it completely the right way, as hardest I've done to date is 7a - and this didnt feel any harder - prob felt about 6b/6b+ but I am tall...

given the above I suspect I used an illegal hold and need to go back to it and try the other way
- so guess I may have to retract my YYFY... ANYWAY - which ever way I did it, it still felt great and I finally got up something! Deliverance on friday if the weather holds

If anyone can confirm/deny whether that hold is in or not please let me know... T

GCW · April 02, 2009, 12:50:21 pm

Quote from: tomtom on April 02, 2009, 07:59:44 am

have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it

I wouldn't take too much notice of videos of one fat lad and one lanky twat

Having said that, I personally think Dreamland is no give away at 7a+, it's certainly not 7a.

If you're talking about the hold left of Sloper's belly, my understanding is that it's out of bounds:

Fiend · April 02, 2009, 01:12:49 pm

Bear in mind that is a quite significant belly too...

tomtom · April 02, 2009, 01:31:19 pm

Quote from: GCW on April 02, 2009, 12:50:21 pm

Quote from: tomtom on April 02, 2009, 07:59:44 am
have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it

Having said that, I personally think Dreamland is no give away at 7a+, it's certainly not 7a.

If you're talking about the hold left of Sloper's belly, my understanding is that it's out of bounds:

Darn, I suspected as much... looks like I'll have to go back and do it properly...

Thanks, T

andy_e · April 02, 2009, 01:58:37 pm

Good effort Hobson's Choice and Rabies - sounsd like everyone's crushing up there at the moment!

tomtom · April 02, 2009, 02:57:42 pm

Quote from: andi_e on April 02, 2009, 01:58:37 pm

Good effort Hobson's Choice and Rabies - sounsd like everyone's crushing up there at the moment!

Conditions were superb yesterday eve, esp as the sun dropped. Not too cold, great friction happy days

Get yourself there!

Oli · April 02, 2009, 05:51:29 pm

Just got back from my first trip do font and it was fucking awesome.
Did some classic 7's, the odd circuit and managed to avoid getting completely shutdown by a 4+.
And I managed to do Carnage, a first 7B+...

However, also some NNFN, but that's for another thread.

andy_e · April 02, 2009, 10:12:42 pm

Good effort grump!

I did two nemeses today, Angel Deelite and Crucifix Kiss. Also got close to Beauty of Being Numb, but it hurt my heel too much after a while.