YYFY!!! (Read 2102808 times)

LucyB · February 11, 2009, 10:59:52 am

Quote from: dobbin

Anyway, I'm a really nice guy

Can we have our baby back, then? It was great to begin with, but I'm missing her now

dobbin · February 11, 2009, 12:13:10 pm

If I can get her off the Beastmaker I'll pop her in this afternoon.

(I'm not that nice by the way)

The Sausage · February 11, 2009, 12:30:10 pm

OH YES YOU ARE!!!

neil h · February 11, 2009, 07:09:04 pm

well many moons ago on our very first trip to font, we went an had a look at megawatt, the 7c+ at isatis, remembering a picture I saw of joss on the problem, we thought it was imposable, well my friends, today i made the imposable possible with an ascent.

It was probably the most made up I have ever been on a problem, I have completed the circle on a 6 year journey, The problem has taken me several days to day over the last 4 months, you can see the footage in Februarys dose.

this is how i feel right now

r-man · February 11, 2009, 07:31:35 pm

Nice one Neil! I love those moments when it suddenly seems possible; when you realise that once barred gates have opened, and the meanest of holds are beckoning...

andy_e · February 11, 2009, 07:59:28 pm

Congrats! I never know whether to hate you or be inspired by you Neil

neil h · February 11, 2009, 08:02:15 pm

Quote from: andi_e on February 11, 2009, 07:59:28 pm

I never know whether to hate you or be inspired by you Neil

be inspired my jedi knight

Jaspersharpe · February 12, 2009, 08:40:12 am

Good effort Neil - AGAIN!

Nice pictures by Keith on Bleau.info too.

Averageman · February 12, 2009, 08:48:28 am

Nice work Neil,

it was bound to go, you was close on it when i was with you that time.

Nibile · February 14, 2009, 07:13:10 pm

i finally step again into here, to proudly announce that i dispatched out of service assis today, in very good conditions finally, but today i was a power monster.
i have some footage, sadly not of the send because in the cold the batteries lasted one hour.
YES YES FUCKING YES.

nik at work · February 14, 2009, 07:16:29 pm

Nice one Nibs. But....

Where/what/who/how is Out Of Service Assis?
Details man, we thrive on details.

Richie Crouch · February 14, 2009, 07:25:23 pm

Fucking effort Lore!

Great problem on amazing rock

I had a YYFY mixed with NNFN today, climbed Vitruvian man to the lip then couldn't top it out due to it being minging wet! Also dropping the top jug on Moreau's island 30 mins later :'(

Here is a shot from 08 of the most psyched man I have ever met infront of said crushed problem

Nibile · February 14, 2009, 07:26:41 pm

first thing: read my blog!!!

out of service has been one of my nemesis for a few years. it was put up around 2003 i think and the first repeat was mine last year. not happy to have fullfilled a dream, i foolishly thought that the sit start was doable. this granted me another year or suffering: the problem is in tuscany, sassofortino, and sadly sits in the depht of the wood, just under a big cliff and is constantly in the shade, so it's rarely in good conditions.
today it was, and i sent it so far away that we will have to re-draw the topo of the sector.

nik at work · February 14, 2009, 07:30:09 pm

In that case have a

B E A S T

and a

W A D

Richie Crouch · February 14, 2009, 07:33:12 pm

Lore, I don't think I can sleep until I come and crush Spigolo, Lourdes and OOS in a trip of destructive proportions, then to Bruno's restaurant to dine like kings

nik at work · February 14, 2009, 07:35:24 pm

Nice one Richie (Vitruvianically speaking). Get on the sitter, quality.

Richie Crouch · February 14, 2009, 07:47:22 pm

Yeah it's on the cards for the next few weeks weather permitting! It was in amazing condition until we walked up to the boulder and it proceeded to lash down for 15 mins and make any topping out a no goer

I think the shelter stone is the most underrated block of rock in the UK, stunning to look at and to climb

neil h · February 14, 2009, 08:13:10 pm

Quote from: Nibile on February 14, 2009, 07:13:10 pm

i finally step again into here, to proudly announce that i dispatched out of service assis today, in very good conditions finally, but today i was a power monster.
i have some footage, sadly not of the send because in the cold the batteries lasted one hour.
YES YES FUCKING YES.

And you say I have it good

Palomides · February 16, 2009, 08:42:30 pm

I keep having spontaneous YYFY eruptions...

On Saturday I redpointed a F7c at St Bauzille de Montmel that I've been trying on and off since 2001.

The last time I redpointed 7c before that was TWELVE YEARS AGO.

Next stop 8a!!!!!!!!!!!!

dobbin · February 17, 2009, 09:55:26 am

Quote from: chillax on February 10, 2009, 01:37:24 pm

I think the more important question here is a consensus grade for the topout! We've had everything from 4a to 5b. Its a travesty that such an important piece of climbing history remains ungraded....

Yooo hooo! Yoooo hoooo boys! I'm over here! disappointed that this thread had moved on from talking about me I went back to the plantation and did the joker again last night - INCLUDING THE 5B mantle.

Yes, thats right top out fans, I have great pleasure in confirming that the so called easy top out is indeed easy and about 5b. I did think for a few moments that it might be 5a but I think I will go for the bigger number. 5b it is. The Ace on the other hand is a bit harder than 5b and may take some time.

Averageman · February 17, 2009, 10:01:52 am

An official send

dave · February 17, 2009, 10:08:20 am

so good he climbed it thrice - do we have a new contender for the crown of plantation showpony?

Jaspersharpe · February 17, 2009, 10:13:26 am

Er, sorry Dob. Bit of confusion here as you mention the grade as 5B and 5b. This is obviously a really important issue so can we have total clarity and transparency please? Where's the video by the way?

dobbin · February 17, 2009, 10:35:45 am

Quote from: dave on February 17, 2009, 10:08:20 am

so good he climbed it thrice - do we have a new contender for the crown of plantation showpony?

Good god no - I dont have hair for it for a start, and besides, you have to be able to casually saunter up hard trad climbs of which I am terrified.

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on February 17, 2009, 10:13:26 am

Er, sorry Dob. Bit of confusion here as you mention the grade as 5B and 5b. This is obviously a really important issue so can we have total clarity and transparency please? Where's the video by the way?

You are right. The inconsistency in my reporting my ascent so expertly highlighted by such an experienced witch hunter leaves me no option but to accept the lower grade - 5b it is. You will be delighted to learn that I decided not to break with tradition and this latest ascent was filmed by a foreign chap and we shall perhaps never see the video. Because you asked of course.

But really, I think all polish dave footage goes via Rman studios at cemetry road boulder for processing, so god knows if it will see light of day. Havent we all had enough of me by now anyway?

Richie Crouch · February 17, 2009, 10:43:12 am

I hope we will get to see the negative results from the doping tests and the relevant signed witness accounts before we can give any further credit $:-\$