YYFY!!! (Read 2103011 times)

Will Hunt · January 06, 2009, 05:50:35 pm

That arete looks weap IN. What's it called? What's the price tag?

jfw · January 06, 2009, 06:11:33 pm

tranche de lard(e?) (slice of lard?)

6b(+?) cuisiniere

its awesome - i can get my hands to where the guy's are in that picture, then you bump your right hand back into a good hole (but i can't slap/reach straight for it for it)

if your taller/stronger you can hook round the arete with your left foot to reach up with your right - but that didn't work for me.

the sloper before the hole is hard (for me) to hold, and i kept falling off

but it will be mine - oh yes...

Duma · January 06, 2009, 06:24:35 pm

Tranche du Lard at Cusiniere.
6B, but if you've got the old 7+8 it's in there at 7A... bargain.
Great little problem, but very conditions dependent.

Will Hunt · January 06, 2009, 06:49:38 pm

Looks cool.

My new computers got a pretty good dictionary built in. Looked up crush and thought this was a brilliant definition for climbers:

"[To] squeeze with force or violence, typically causing serious damage"

This should be on the UKB t-shirt somewhere.

Fiend · January 06, 2009, 07:43:42 pm

Mmmmm lard.

Heel-hook left and bring LH up?

Jim · January 08, 2009, 11:55:01 am

Finally did festin t'other day, a slight nemesis of mine.
Put left hand in further left hand hold and it was piss, did it 4th go including warming up.
Just have to go back when the top isn't covered with snow/ice and top it out to get it ticked in my guide

old cheese · January 08, 2009, 08:00:24 pm

so did you or did'nt you do festin then? i think without the top out you may not have done. more bad dreams and hurting arms to come methinks

Adam Lincoln · January 08, 2009, 08:06:07 pm

Quote from: Jim on January 08, 2009, 11:55:01 am

Finally did festin t'other day, a slight nemesis of mine.
Put left hand in further left hand hold and it was piss, did it 4th go including warming up.
Just have to go back when the top isn't covered with snow/ice and top it out to get it ticked in my guide

Just kill two birds with one stone next time. Work the sitter. Then link into stand up. Bobs your uncle. Or is it Keith? I dunno.

Falling Down · January 10, 2009, 09:23:43 pm

C3P0 today after about 30 attempts... get in!

Eddies · January 11, 2009, 12:10:29 am

There was a hoard of westsiders up the Roaches today... did you have fun?
Anyone get Boba Fett done?

Falling Down · January 11, 2009, 11:59:20 am

Fun.. yep. It's the first time in ages I've got to the top of something and had a proper YYFY moment.

There was a fellow climbing Boba who got really high and then split a tip on the pebbles. He would have done it for sure as he was super steady and smooth.. shame it's now gone warm. He gave me some very helpful beta (a step through start) for C3P0 that I tried for a while and really helped me figure out what to do but I ended up doing it without the step through. I learned something yesterday about moving sideways up slabs that I've never really noticed before and I've been climbing on grit for nearly 20 years...

SA Chris · January 11, 2009, 03:54:26 pm

Quote from: Falling Down on January 11, 2009, 11:59:20 am

I learned something yesterday about moving sideways up slabs that I've never really noticed before and I've been climbing on grit for nearly 20 years...

Surely that is more of a YYFY moment than the actual tick. Like finding another little drawer holding a pleasant secret. Nice one.

Falling Down · January 11, 2009, 08:44:02 pm

True indeed. But I wasn't jumping up and down on an icy boulder shouting 'YES!!!...' into the Lower Tier trees due to a new found insight into climbing slabs dynamically, I was just SYKED to have done something that felt impossible for years until New Years Eve and then yesterday when I really didn't know whether I would even get off the ground. But you're right.. some hard earned insight is golddust these days..

neil h · January 15, 2009, 10:06:52 pm

yes yes, I did one of the forests most classic lines today berizina

get in

saltbeef · January 15, 2009, 10:12:39 pm

nice! good effort!
(I'm not remotely jealous of that weather! or living in font! or not being at work!)

Paul B · January 15, 2009, 10:15:41 pm

Jeez, I've heard that sequence described as a jump, your foot stays on!!! (lanky

)

Only kidding... nice one neil!!!

neil h · January 15, 2009, 10:21:21 pm

Quote from: Paul B on January 15, 2009, 10:15:41 pm

Jeez, I've heard that sequence described as a jump, your foot stays on!!! (lanky )

Only kidding... nice one neil!!!

keith said I would never do it that way, I decided to proove himn wrong and yes almost static

Jim · January 16, 2009, 06:27:07 am

I hate everyone

nik at work · January 16, 2009, 07:53:05 am

Nice one Neil.
You do look tres tall in that clip, I'm beginning to think that our Saut De Puce dyno challenge at Canche may not be entirely fair...

neil h · January 16, 2009, 08:10:20 am

why do you hate everyone jim, is it because you left font with the most perfect conditions just cause you were cold.

how are your toes by the way, defrosted yet,

Jaspersharpe · January 16, 2009, 08:59:56 am

Good effort Neil!

Quote from: saltbeef on January 15, 2009, 10:12:39 pm

nice! good effort!
(I'm not remotely jealous of that weather! or living in font! or not being at work!)

dave · January 16, 2009, 09:06:42 am

i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

Ru · January 16, 2009, 09:43:32 am

Good effort Neil, I remember doing Berezina and being well chuffed. Its a font rite of passage.

neil h · January 16, 2009, 10:18:40 am

Quote from: dave on January 16, 2009, 09:06:42 am

i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

i disagree there, the heel for me was the hardest bit, I spent the first day trying with the heel and only had one good shot, but the second day trying it this method was so easy for me

helps being a little bit taller

Jaspersharpe · January 16, 2009, 10:27:02 am

How tall are you Neil?