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YYFY!!! (Read 2102239 times)

Hoseyb

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#7825 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2022, 03:31:54 pm
I feel like I have exited the tunnel with my Achilles rupture. I can hop up an down stairs solely on the treacherous limb, and have been able to drop off the (indoor) bouldering wall in a controlled manner with hands about 4m without I'll effect.
6 months off has left me a little weaker, as I intentionally avoided dabbling, but ancient gnarliness ( and underachieving) has meant I've only dropped 3 french grades in my lead onsight, and about 3 in my font.

Adventure awaits

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#7826 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2022, 03:34:42 pm
Excellent news hosey!

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#7827 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2022, 04:48:39 pm
Great news Hosey - well done

cheque

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#7828 Re: YYFY!!!
September 20, 2022, 05:31:29 pm
Led my first E1 since my accident on Sunday  ;D , Sniffer Dog at the Ravenstones.

It’s taken almost four and a half years but onsight* trad’s a tough old game  ;)

*if we’re being pedantic it was “flashed after watching your mate climb it earlier in the day” in this case

mrjonathanr

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#7829 Re: YYFY!!!
September 20, 2022, 06:33:01 pm
From 'lucky to be alive' to 'extreme leader again' is a well good effort Mike  :clap2:

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#7830 Re: YYFY!!!
September 20, 2022, 06:51:52 pm
Led my first E1 since my accident on Sunday  ;D , Sniffer Dog at the Ravenstones.

It’s taken almost four and a half years but onsight* trad’s a tough old game  ;)

*if we’re being pedantic it was “flashed after watching your mate climb it earlier in the day” in this case

Pissed it too! You had plenty in reserve.

cheque

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#7831 Re: YYFY!!!
September 20, 2022, 08:47:07 pm
 :hug:

Hoseyb

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#7832 Re: YYFY!!!
September 20, 2022, 09:36:47 pm
Nice one!
Have you considered Elder Crack?
I seem to remember it was protected okay and would be right up your alley.
Seem to remember it's a lot more chilled than many E1 offwidths

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#7833 Re: YYFY!!!
September 29, 2022, 02:49:48 pm
As of Wednesday this week I have done six months of daily stretching. It started out as the only training type activity I could do when sick, and that’s still part of it, but it’s also just a really good way of slowly nursing my fucked up nervous system back to health. I’d recommend it whatever though, feels pretty good.

SA Chris

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#7834 Re: YYFY!!!
September 29, 2022, 03:05:55 pm
That's a long stretch! :) Well done Sean, something I really neglect, should do a lot more.

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#7835 Re: YYFY!!!
September 29, 2022, 08:14:01 pm
Good effort, I admire your dedication

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#7836 Re: YYFY!!!
September 29, 2022, 08:34:47 pm
 :punk:

I did some good stretching errr ummmm last Thursday  :-[

MischaHY

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#7837 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 09:19:52 am
Managed to sneak up my first 8A on sandstone yesterday  :great:

Lovely techy line on slopers requiring lots of body tension. I was a little stumped about the crux initially and couldn't hold tension on the left hand sloper due to being very spanned out, but then found a tiny two finger jam in the seam which ended up working well. Still nearly came off the 7A+ second half after a smear popped!

Really pleased with this one as I'd have had no chance on it last year but the past few months of concentrating more on strength seem to be paying off  :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClBBvmtIzuw/

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#7838 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 09:28:30 am
Nice one Mischa. This is in no way a knockdown or intending to cast doubt, but, just from watching the video, that's one of those problems that if someone said its was a Font6A in Font I wouldn't have questioned it. Just goes to show how impossible armchair grading from a video is!


MischaHY

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#7839 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 10:13:53 am
Nice one Mischa. This is in no way a knockdown or intending to cast doubt, but, just from watching the video, that's one of those problems that if someone said its was a Font6A in Font I wouldn't have questioned it. Just goes to show how impossible armchair grading from a video is!

Yeah funnily I was saying to a mate yesterday that if it was maybe 10-15 degrees less overhanging it would be a brilliant 6A! The seam itself overhangs around 30-35 degrees.


SA Chris

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#7840 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 10:51:20 am
Nice, looks cool, whereabouts?

MischaHY

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#7841 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 12:35:02 pm
Nice, looks cool, whereabouts?

It's at Angelstein in the Calw area.

SA Chris

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#7842 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 01:32:13 pm
Danke.

MischaHY

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#7843 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 02:14:12 pm
Danke.

Blackblocs is the guidebook. Are you localish? I'm 1hr away.

SA Chris

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#7844 Re: YYFY!!!
November 16, 2022, 02:23:34 pm
Nowhere near! Just thought it might be font or if it was somewhere i had never heard of. Seems the latter..

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#7845 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2023, 09:36:56 pm
After 3ish years of trying, I managed a 7c first go today.

(Hipotermia in Chulilla)

Satisfying fight and good to do it here after a pretty much written off trip last year

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#7846 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2023, 09:45:22 pm
Good effort! Aren't you supposed to be injured or something??

remus

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#7847 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2023, 09:55:39 pm
Mega! Chunky one too.

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#7848 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2023, 09:59:30 pm
 :great:  Inspiring. It's always been one of my bucket list goals. Maybe this year.

jwi

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#7849 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2023, 09:09:14 am
Nice! It has some hard moves too! Maybe try the nearby Nibelungalos too, easier moves in the same style!

 

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