UKBouldering.com

Woodie angle (Read 4482 times)

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:03:45 pm
Been done to death already I imagine, but I can't be arsed to red through 100's of posts. Garage has been finished and woodie is going in next week. It is approx 9' high aand 8' wide. Proabably looking at 10' to 12' high woodie depending on angle.
I know there is going to be lots of votes for 50 due to the fact the school main board is 50 but please rememebr I'm not building the school, the other board was about 50 and was too steep really for a home woodie

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#1 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:07:55 pm
In all the woodies I've been on (;)) the den is by far the best board. The key to that fact I think lies in its angle. You're not so steep as to write off micro micro crimps or totally bum slopers, yet not so slabby to be a path.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#2 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:09:44 pm
exactly what I was after Tom.
Can't really remember the den as it was ages ago, infact the day of opening, when I was there. what angle do you recon, about 35?

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#3 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:12:25 pm
I think so yeah. The boyos stated between 30-40. It's so good I got the train to it from Liverpool. Reckon that's the acid test of a good board.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#4 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:36:01 pm
Its a real shame they built it out of OSB board

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#5 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:45:21 pm
At times I thought Danny had made a booby trap and anyone over 8 stone was going down in flames. Thankfully it can handle the larger gent and did so with ease.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#6 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 09:50:04 pm
well it took my bulk ok.

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#7 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 10:02:58 pm
Andy Popp's board is also a beast and has a final roof section with the ply boards being fixed into the existing wooden beam framework. There's also a lip after this with different sized holds to match on - a frequent stumbling block I'd imagine after doing moves further down the board.

dave

  • Guest
#8 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 10:07:40 pm
for a board in a limited height room like the cellar of a typical sheffield victorian terrace you can't go far wrong with 45degrees. any slabbier and you'll be getting to the top in a move and a half. any steeper and you've be cutting loose and dragging your feet/knees on the floor. 50 or 55 may well be theoretically better if you've got the height for it, but 45 rules in a confined space.

Somebody's Fool

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1051
  • Karma: +124/-6
#9 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 10:35:07 pm
Jim.  Don't forget you'll need to fit Audi spares behind it.  I reckon at least 40 degrees to satisfactorily hide a decent sized spoiler.

But just think, at least you won't have a redundant Volkswagen interior wedged behind it.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9628
  • Karma: +264/-4
#10 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 10:50:50 pm
I guess it depends on what you're weak at? the less steep a board is the more it plays on your fingers, the steeper it is the more the climbing will be power oreintated...45 is about the best of both. Id also just like to point out that there are some bloody tiny crimps on the 50 deg board, just most choose not to use them.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#11 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 11:16:36 pm
If you hung the board off chains from the back wall you could alter the angle by using a krab thru the chain links.

Just a thought. It works for me.

Best, Simon 

dave

  • Guest
#12 Re: Woodie angle
October 11, 2007, 11:27:33 pm
thing with doing that is it wastes height as you set it at a steep angle. for example you build a tilting board and make it the length that means it reached the ceiling at 20degrees (i.e. 20 degrees is the slabbiest it will go), then when you tilt it out to 45degrees its shorter than you could have made a dedicated 45board in the same space, by a factor of 1/3 of the height of your room. if i did this in my cellar it would mean by board would be only 7' long instead of 9'. in a small space this is significant. if you make a wall that will fold vertical its even worse.

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#13 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 07:06:30 am
What's Herr Popp doing claiming "weakness is my only weakness" and owning a woodie?    All woodie owners should be beasts.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#14 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 09:47:11 am
why should all woody owners be beasts? it's not like they're training at the indy wall is it ;D

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#15 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 09:49:55 am
To beast, or not to beast - that is the question...

As for your woodie angle:  as proud and upstanding as you can muster, sweetheart.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#16 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 09:52:42 am
Hi Dave

Good point. I suppose it all depends what you want your Woodie for. Mine is a systems board so I am just aiming to go up and down identical hold grips with a weight belt on so height is not important. I also find it useful to increase the angle to 'up' the load. Similarly the problems on your board can be made that bit harder by increasing the angle if your strong, and that bit easier if you decrease the angle for when you are weak creating potential for a virtually infinite number of problems. Also with enough ceiling height you can lean the wall back aginst the wall at the end of the session could, for example, make it more feasible to have the board in a bedroom with its higher ceiling height rather than being relegated to the cellar.

I am only interested in climbing on a board for training purposes and so didnt consider the requiremnt of a recreational boulderer lacking ceiling height where square footage would be the most important factor.


Best, Simon  

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#17 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 09:54:06 pm
Thanks for the input. The board will be fixed and I'm thinking about 40 angle. I will have to consult with the GGC massive first of course

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2359
  • Karma: +355/-5
#18 Re: Woodie angle
October 12, 2007, 09:57:21 pm
mine is 40 degrees. it's great. but i sometimes think that making a 45 degree board would've been a whole lot easier. and i had a furniture factory to make it in....

andy popp

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5541
  • Karma: +347/-5
#19 Re: Woodie angle
October 13, 2007, 08:54:30 am
What's Herr Popp doing claiming "weakness is my only weakness" and owning a woodie?

Did I say that? I think I said it was my main weakness.

My board is 45 degrees, 12' wide and about 10' high. Its in a garage with a pitched roof, all the framing in the roof space made it very easy to fix the flat roof section at the top of the board. This is about 3 and half feet and round the lip is small, slightly leaning board with a good rail and some smaller edges. Almost all problems finish matched on the rail - often of necessity footless. As Tom suggests, this has caused some projects to remain projects. I think this feature really adds something and you might want to contemplate it if your space allows. The only bummer is that the side door to the garage is in the back corner meaning that we can't use the full width of what is a double garage. We've seriously contemplated moving the door and may do yet.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal