[danielb]

Wahoo! Finally...

got yearly pay rise in and am going to spend it on new rock shoes and a bouldering mat so I can do some training when I can't get a climbing partner. Now I've been told that the Franklin Drop Zone is the shit, is this true and does it have rucksack style carry straps?

Now the big question is whats a good boudlering shoe? I currently have Scarpa Reflexs but they where bought for comfort rather than performance so I have a large amount of air between my heel and the actual heel of the shoes. I want something thats going to help me use small foot holds, a friend has Red Chilli Voodoos and they look pretty sweat any others I should look at?

Cheers,

DanielB

[Avoiding the Traitor]

You bastard!

Still waiting for my pay rise for last 2 years.

[Bubba]

What's a pay rise? My last one just cancelled out the rise in NI  :cry:

Franklin is a great pad, and yes it does have rucksac straps.

Red Chilli Voodoos seem excellent too, though I've not fully worn mine in yet so can't wear them for more than 10 mins at a time without extreme pain.  You're best trying them all on and choosing the ones that feel nicest on your feet. I can't wear several 5.10's coz they just hurt my feet, much as I'd like to for the excellent rubber.

[dontfollowme]

As Bubba said fit is very important. I don't reckon you'll climb too great if your feet are in agony. Those purple scarpa slippers look nice, I forget the name now. My mate has a franklin mat and its very good, I know why my red chilli mat was so cheap now.

[dave]

RE mats:

if you go mto the crag alone in a car then get the biggest mat you can fit on the back seat. If you go in a carfull, get on that fits in the boot so your mates can takes theirs anall. what I'm saying is if you and 4 mates go climbing in a Micra, theres no sense buying a franklyn.

I got a small Pod mat which fits in most boots, exceptionally well made, top foam and long lasting. If i went out tomorrow to buy a new mat i would get one of these again.

[dobbin]

I just got a pair of Voodoo's and whilst I too haven't broken them in properly yet I have used them sparingly out and about. They are stiff at first (aren't all boots) so you may want to wack them on a fence post or something, the front points are really good, but i think the last itself is something of a funny shape. Red Chilli have always felt a bit wierd on my feet though so I guess its if the boot fits - wear it!

If its Heel performance you are influenced by I thought that the heel on these was worse than on my 5.10's - again, maybe I have wierd ass heels! Those Sportiva boots are really good all round and they have ace heels, but as most of my climbing occurs on small edges where front points are important I'm less bothered!

[danielb]

Thanks for all the input guys, I drive a Ford Escort Estate so fitting mats in the boot is not a problem Will try to find a pair of slippers or voodoos to have a go in before I buy.

Daniel

[dave]

best thing for boots is just try on loads and see what feels good. What might be the bomb on my feet might be shite on yours, just depends on foot-shape.

[Bubba]

Strangley the Voodoos are the only boots I've tried for ages that fit my heels properly !

Just goes to show, there's no one right boot for everyone....

[dave]

I find boreal (because I'm worth it) to be the dopest heels, the stingers heels were proper bo.  a very close second are sportivas. The heels on my 5:10 velcros are adequate but nothing to write home about.

actaully the heels on my paranioas are surprisingly good, considering the rest of the shoe is shite.

[Bubba]

I quite liked paranoias, but thought the heel was pants!

Boreal's probably fit me best overall but the last pair I bought had such crap rubber I vowed never to buy any again.

[dave]

i recon boreals rubber is good - i've worn them on most of my hardest boulder problems, even first did deliverance in worn-out stingers with holes in. The trick is the get used to the sensation of them slipping a bit then stopping on the best bit of the hold. since going back and doing it in 5:10s yes they feel stickier, but thats only cos they stick first and explode off later, whereas boreals slide, stop and then slide again.

[danielb]

One more thing are Moon Pads any good? As thats whats stocked in my local store not Drop-Zones and I may well be too impatient to wait for the drop-zone via mail order....

So I might get a large Moon pad instead. Maybe...

Danielb

[dave]

I'd heard the foam was shite, but i've never seen one out so don't know (that fact alone might be indicative of quality!)

[hongkongstuey]

You bastard!

Still waiting for my pay rise for last 2 years.

be thankful - we've had pay CUTS for the last two years! i'm now earning marginally less than when i joined this fucking company - if it wasn't for the fact there aren't any more decent jobs out here ........................

[dom]

franklin drop zone is an excelent choice, better and bigger than moon ( th mat that is), and can be delivered cheaply next day if you buy from rockandrun.  and it fits into my ford Ka easily - so whatever. the scarpa vortex is comfortable and decent, but not so good edging cause of its midsole and pants for heel hooks. the mad rocks look better for bouldering at a similar price, and are sold at tiso's.