[superfurrymonkey]

I`ve just acquired the bouldering off piste guide and I`m already  by the scale of the place.
So which area should I make my first point of call, recommendations 

[Idol eyes]

Bas Cuvier, for sure... Would be a kin to going Stanage Plantation first, overpopulated, but quinessential bleau...

[erm, sam]

Unless you were specifically looking for the famous Bas Cuvier probs, I wouldn't go there as my first port of call. Its is a bit too minging and busy at times (though there are LOADS of great probs). Rocher Sabot, Canche au merciers, isatis would be my first ports of call, followed by 91.1, cul de chien, cusineiere blah blah. I have had great days at almost everywhere I have been.. so just get stuck in.. The one place I didn't like was too hot and polished and busy, and my elbows hurt and I was crap.

[Idol eyes]

Franchard is also great, Cuvier to me is more historical, or rather has more antiquity than the other areas, on the whole you are going to be running out of time before you run out of quality areas...

[GCW]

I enjoyed Beavis (Beauvais en Francais), 95.2 (a bit eroded), l'Elephant, Franchard Sablons, Bois-Rond, Cul de Chicken, Canche aux Merciers, la Roche aux Sabots, Potala, 91.1, Apremont (Gorge and Bizons), and Rocher Canon.
Of those I'd recommend Sabots and Merciers for a first trip, but I'd certainly recommend the rest too.

Go there, get lost in the forests, spend hours looking for number 23, and enjoy the whole Bleau atmosphere and experience.   

[Dr T]

la Roche aux Sabots, 91.1

them ones certainly rock
 

[Jim]

go to sabots

[Drew]

Isatis

[Jaspersharpe]

As you can tell from these replies there really are rather a lot of good areas.

One way of picking where to go is to have a look on Bleau.info and pick a few specific problems that you think look really good. By going to do the individual problems you will generally discover loads more quality in their respective areas.

Basically it's mostly very very good interspersed with brilliant.

Enjoy.

[superfurrymonkey]

Cheers guys, I have a copy of Tour de Blocs so I`m going to make a list and do Bleau.info too. Drew are you Drew Withey?

[Scouse D]

Franchard cuisinere will blow your mind

[nash1]

Give us a grade range and type of problem (dyno, slab, slopers etc) and we can give ya a tick list...

[i.munro]

I`ve just acquired the bouldering off piste guide and I`m already  by the scale of the place.

To get a better idea of the scale look at the pull-down list of areas on bleau.info

[Jim]

as scouse sez, take a tight fitting hat coz font will blow your mind

[superfurrymonkey]

Give us a grade range and type of problem (dyno, slab, slopers etc) and we can give ya a tick list...

I quite fancy the idea of some quality slabs 7a to 7b and beyond who knows 

[nash1]

A l'impossible at Sabots is one of the good ones, 7a+. The slabby 6c just left of it really is impossible, never seen anyone do it! J.A Martin has a couple of nice probs, a classic 6c slab and a cool and soft 7a+ (coup de cymbale). Cuisinere is so extensive, there are loads of less steep problems there, and Isatis.
Medaille en chocolat at Apremont is a cheeky 7a, slab start to easy dyno. A few other good slabby things at Apremont as well.
I suggest you spend a bit of time on bleau.info before you go and write down a list of stuff, they tell you if it is a slab on there.

[Dr T]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

[a dense loner]

never heard of bazoka jo, tho my sabot pages are too heavy to turn anymore

slab - lucifer at sabot is good, if over in 2 moves 7a+/b. la couer at cuisiniere is good, damn that last wet hold 7c. 7a+ at dame jouanne is good, thought was going to break a finger on it. its the only slab in guide.

[a dense loner]

edit: the prob at cuisiniere is called cote couer, not la couer. also a lot of people rave about super prestat 7b+ at cuvier, never tried.
also if anyone can do the project titled "big crotte" 7a in front of me i will give them a pound

[nash1]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

[Dr T]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

other than "go back when it's cold" -  any beta?

[nash1]

Beta for Baz Jo.
Stand on ledge
right foot on little mini mini foothold quite far out right
rh on lowest crimp on flake
lh a bit higher than rh, so you have kind of a layback position
jump left foot onto smear (feels insecure, but clean you shoe and it will hold)
rh up to crimp at top of flake
then go to the jug on top, with either hand.

[Paul B]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

Isn't bazooka joe on the face round the left hand corner from Jet Set? Heel next to hand rock up and get big sidepull thing? I don't know where these "vicious crimps" are....

[nash1]

Nope, you are thinking of the 6b called Mur a Michaud (http://bleau.info/sabots/5758.html). Bazooka Jo is behind and left of you as you are looking at Jet Set. I'll put a pic on UKC and link it when it is approved...

[nash1]

Here is Bazooka Jo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=74530

He has got his rh where his left should be, his rh should be a foot lower.