Quote from: nash1 on October 03, 2007, 09:51:22 pmI bet no one has on sighted or flashed their first E7 ever (go on, prove me wrongMy bet is someone will prove you wrong on that one!
I bet no one has on sighted or flashed their first E7 ever (go on, prove me wrong
The only argument I can think of is route traffic, i.e. polishing the holds,
KK is a strange one. Yes I agree on this one being one which should be ground upped as it is distinctly fall offable, but it will always get headpointed as it is seen as an 'introductory' E7. Which is a shame, because it would be a good one to save for the flash/on sight.
The improvements may be small at first - less time practising - but usually by the fifth ascent or so there's a serious upgrade in style. By the time the masses get to it (15-20 year gap often the case here) true onsights are generally the norm.
Established grit E5s should never be headpointed now.
Without JB having his strong anti-headpoint stance we wouldn't have had amazing ascents like his ground up of Angel's Share, however if JB was a headpointer, maybe the Peak would have a couple more E9's to it's name.
Stu, I seem to remember we made a deal that if I belayed you on KK, then you would belay me for thirty days on another route, you then disappeared to HK. When you gonna make good on your promise
ethics go out the window when the drill goes in.
blah.. headpointing bad.. blah.. onsight good.. blah...where's my frickin beta boyos!
Yeah, but all they showed me was how to fail... A Ha! the point I am trying to make. So the first flash of Mushuga will have to be by some one who has not seen the last 10 mins of Hard Grit!!! Videopointing routes, acceptable? I must admit to not being that bothered about the difference between "on sight" "flash" and "ground up", very fine lines that will allways be subject to criticism
where's my frickin beta boyos!
I bet no one has onsighted or flashed their first E7 ever (go on, prove me wrong!),
On a seperate point the notion that routes below E-whatever shouldn't be headpointed has been mooted.
[QuoteI bet no one has onsighted or flashed their first E7 ever (go on, prove me wrong!),I did, and as Nik intimated Ross Cowie did the same. There are plenty of others I'm sure.
so it's a reach to the fluting's with feet still in the break with the cams in?