[GCW]

Dave, out of interest do you mean:

Strawberries: 5+.  No fucking way 6b.

Or

Strawberries 5+?  No fucking way!  6b.

[grimer]

And here we have a demonstration of the power of the internet to achieve consensus. What a wonderful thing.

[dave k]

Trackside is max 6c for anyone that can put there toe near their ear. Its a problem that baffled me for ages, but once I sorted out the feet- hey presto. I actually use my toe, not heal! Anyone else.

Bens Wall is my nemesis- held the final hold once for a second-spent many attempts since and have suffered a fair few days with only right sore hip to show for it.

Hurricane - 7c? Felt like 7b when I did it- but conditions were damn fine!

Traverse around boulder to finish up strawberries, seems to make the strawberries finish much more tricky- means you are moving in from the right- anyone agree?

Mono (LH), Blob (RH),sidecrimp (LH), shallow pockets (LH then RH) top- nice eliminate- crack is out for hands and feet- atleast 7a+/7b

All in all- it makes a good warm up for the real beauty of the Eagle Stone!
 

[Jim]

every man and his dog have held the final pocket on bens wall for about a second. holding onto it for longer seems to be the crux of the problem.
Hurricane is worthy of 7c IMHO especially if you do it static

[Dave Flanagan]

Dave, out of interest do you mean:

Strawberries: 5+.  No fucking way 6b.

Or

Strawberries 5+?  No fucking way!  6b.

The former.

[andy popp]

You're all deluded. Curbar is a mediocre bouldering crag but a brilliant one for routes. See the light and embrace the rope!

[Jim]

people that smoke crack:

using heels on early doors
think that strawberries is a 5th grade problem

look, here you all are:

[Bonjoy]

anyone done bruno mindhorn or cloud cuckoo land or one move probs on wall opposite GW?

Yes....


What would you like to know? (bear in mind it might take weeks for me to reply   )
BTW the prob to it´s right is 7a and called Break Out The Trumpets.
 Great White is correct at 7c imo.
 Life Seeker is a great highball at about 6c.

[Bonjoy]

Mono (LH), Blob (RH),sidecrimp (LH), shallow pockets (LH then RH) top- nice eliminate- crack is out for hands and feet- atleast 7a+/7b

I concur! Better than Trackside I reckon and not particularly eliminate really. Id give it 7b for the hard deadpoint to the dink.

[grimer]

Yeah, I thought that was a desperate problem. I guess it is a bit eliminate as you don't use the Trackside Crack, but it was shown to me, so never thought about it. In fact, was it you, Jonboy that showed it me. Absolutely years ago. I was there with JD. You were there with Andy Crome and Mark Turnbull. I remember thin grey trackky bottoms, ninjas and acrylic jumpers. And a small square of carpet. And maybe a gun wrapped in some sackcloth.

[Somebody's Fool]

Regards new stuff, I know that Nige and Smitton did the arete on the block below Black Nix Wall.  As for grade, you'll have to ask Nige.  It's hard(ish) though.  And good.

[Nigel]

Its 8b!

[Jim]

swiss 8b?

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, I thought that was a desperate problem. I guess it is a bit eliminate as you don't use the Trackside Crack, but it was shown to me, so never thought about it. In fact, was it you, Jonboy that showed it me. Absolutely years ago. I was there with JD. You were there with Andy Crome and Mark Turnbull. I remember thin grey trackky bottoms, ninjas and acrylic jumpers. And a small square of carpet. And maybe a gun wrapped in some sackcloth.

The tracky bottoms were probably purple (a borrowed pair of the girlfriend´s mum I think). All else correct. (ask nige about the gun!!)

[Rice Boy]

This thread is rampant!

Has anyone climbed the wall directly opposite Early Doors? Someone mentioned, they had a mate, who knew someone who'd climbed the wall left of the RH arete, obviously without the arete. Not exactly first hand information but I believed him, just like I believe Strawberries is 6a.

[Jim]

I think a few people have.
I presume you mean just the start and not the whole wall.
boils down to just 1 hard move if memory serves

[Somebody's Fool]

Cofe.  Are you aware of Andy Earl's addition to the right of TAOWHW?  He gave it 7c I believe.  It certainly looks harder than Strawberries.

EDIT:  Also Happy House would be better suited to a bouldering grade.  V2?

[cofe]

Cofe.  Are you aware of Andy Earl's addition to the right of TAOWHW?  He gave it 7c I believe.  It certainly looks harder than Strawberries.

'the art of jimmy hat wearing'?

kim was trying twawohowoaowow by pulling on the two left most crimps and rocking straight up to the top crimp on towoaohoow, foot on the rib. reckon AE must have started on crimps further right to fit percy's original description of crimps and gash footholds and to match the grade.

don't know the other one - HH. will look it up on cragbook - a social rock climbing venue facility that brings like minded buttresses together.

GW pit problems:

directly opposite hurricance are two short probs. the left one starts on LH sidepull and RH crimp, paste L foot and windmill right over for big-ish edge trying not to land on the big block that some moron insists on moving around. some people.

the right one starts with LH on the crimp as for previous prob and another for RH and scratches up (1 move or 2) for a smaller finishing edge. they're hardly classics.

the wall in its entirety has almost been done ground-up, the top section being the crux what with it having next to no holds. it's a hands off pop move i think.

the wall right of Fab Arete has been climbed linking the pockets, no arete, by Jordan (not Katie Price). Grade anyone?

someone hook me up with more info on Nige and schmitton's prob.

[dave]

don't know the other one - HH. will look it up on cragbook - a social rock climbing venue facility that brings like minded buttresses together.

this is the thing i pointed out the other day, the butress left of short slab. the thing left if HH is also good and a bit easier.

[cofe]

word.

[Somebody's Fool]

How about Happy Clappy for a name?

Speaking of cragbook, I've just received this on my wall:

Yo word, been reading that curbar bouldering thang on ukb. There's a, really rather good, simon jones problem in that little quarried bit - sort of on the level of walk on by but before you get to it......it's called the Seam or something and he told me it was v8, but i didn't do it when i tried it years ago.....but it was good. So you could post this vagueinformationon that post for completenesses sake as i can't be bothered to register.

Anybody know anything about this?  It's news to me.

[al]

Anybody know anything about this?  It's news to me

yep, think this is the little blank slab in said quarry - by that natural buttress with the wide cracks etc. 200m before 'walk on by' (cofe will know) - its a pretty obvious thin flake up the blankiest bit (also if its the same one i'm thinking of its not V8, possibly 6b+ ish/V whatever that is)
while i'm on, cofe, assuming you've got that sweet little cave half way along somewhere near fidget etc. and the slabby walls left of cloud cuckoo land are nice in a font 5+ sort of way.......and the small wall left of 'blue hawii' is good.......

[a dense loner]

know the one you mean al. was told it was v8 didn't think it was but can't remember how much easier i thought it was. no worries about this useful post of mine

[Scouse D]

Hurricane has got to be 7c.please.

[a dense loner]

it's classic 7c isn't it?