[dave]

sidetrack has got to be one of the most conditiony of the normal problems on that block (i.e. excluding word/playhard) and is shirley harder than trackside.

[Sloper]

Does anyone seriously think Strawberries would get >5+ in Font?  Come on be serious, it's one move between good holds!

[cofe]

all good stuff. i find toe round on trackside to be easier but it's still 7a. i'd go with bottom 7a+ for ED too. sidetrack slightly easier, if more conditions dependent. strawberries is 6a i reckon.

anyone done bruno mindhorn or cloud cuckoo land or one move probs on wall opposite GW?

[cowboyhat]

Yeah 6a for strawberries.  What is it English 5b/c? What would it get on a route...? It is tricky.

You might have it wired but it isn't a slab that children in jelly shoes could tackle.

[Jim]

Some intresting reading, and a few fucking jokes.

Early doors - its basic, I can't seem to fall off it, why people use heels on it is beyond me. If uncle were dead he'd be turning in his grave. Just because you can lap something 100 times in you trainers doesn't mean its not 7a+, albiet it a soft one. Also the rules are very clear - no going again on the top. It goes right hand, left hand, right hand, left hand etc...
Gorilla is a good bench mark at 7a I recon
Trackside is defo 7a which ever sequence you use.
I have done all the various eliminates on/without the bob sloper and all are good I just can't remember them all. I need to find my old cockfax guide. They are quite sequency though I seem to rememeber.
I'd vote for 7c on bens wall/great white. Problem I have on GW is that I cannot reach the sidepull, I recon I'm going to have to jump for it or something
Sidetrack I recon is 7a as well. I have mentioned this several times before. Up until last year I had not seen anyone else ever do it. Imagine showing Johnny Brown beta for a peak grit problem. awesome. conditions dependant and took me ages to work out the beta

Playhard does not use the crack
WORD

[neil h]

Does anyone seriously think Strawberries would get >5+ in Font?  Come on be serious, it's one move between good holds!

I have done harder 5+'s in font than strawberrys

[dave]

Early doors .... the rules are very clear - no going again on the top. It goes right hand, left hand, right hand, left hand etc...

what the fuck are you talking about?

[Jim]

do I have to spell it out.... oh wait I just did?

[Scouse D]

have 2p of mine.
strawberries 6a.

[dave]

let me spell it out to you james:

early doors doesn't have "rules"
at what point do people allegedly "go again"?
why would you want to go again at the top?
why would you not want people to go again at the top?
why does how people do the top of early doors matter?

[a dense loner]

sidetrack is hideous beyond belief. def 7a, what how can it only be 7a its hideous. for some bizarre totally unfair reason that i have never worked out jim does laps on it and i can't use the second hold, which is nearly as big as the hold on archangel. i don't use the crack on play hard as i've stated before. i use the sidepull undercut hold on the right of the crack and i put my left foot to the right of the crack. have also done the blob thing of which you speak, how these ever got B6's i don't know, certainly harder. plus have also done the crimpy prob opp GW. i thought this was rather good for what it was, nobody shared my enthusiasm. need to go and do fool's prob this wkend. trackside is def 7a

i have done easier 7c's in font than strawberries

[Scouse D]

sidetrack 7a and more satifying than trackside.

[Jaspersharpe]

I have done harder 5+'s in font than strawberrys

True but I've also done easier 6as. Lots of em.

There are some desperate problems that get 5+ in Font but the fact is that they aren't 5+ and everyone knows it. I know people who've done plenty of Font 6as in Font and here and they can't do Strawberries. So I still say 6b is nearer the mark and that 5+ is a fucking joke.

[dave]

i don't use the crack on play hard as i've stated before. i use the sidepull undercut hold on the right of the crack and i put my left foot to the right of the crack.

you're smoking crack if you think those holds are on playhard.

[Johnny Brown]

Ditto, sidetrack is good. Dream on Jim, what planet are you on. Oh yeah, planet jim.

i have done easier 7c's in font than strawberries

Lets have a list then, shouldn't take long?

[a dense loner]

no, it's pretty much exactly the same length as yours. didn't take long at all

[Dr T]

Trackside ain't 7a if you've got a decent reach, left foot on arete below seam and slap for the top with your right.

decent reach....
sounds like the reach of an Orang-utan to me.....

[neil h]

Trackside ain't 7a if you've got a decent reach, left foot on arete below seam and slap for the top with your right.

decent reach....
sounds like the reach of an Orang-utan to me.....

I have the reach of an orang-uton, but i still cant reach the top?     The problem i have is my flexability is so poor i cant evn get my foot to the arete, so thats why I have tried it 7 million times and still cant do it. but i can do laps on ed

[Jim]

people using heels on early doors are the ones smoking crack.

The rules for the top of early doors were a sort of joke, unfortunatley no one remembered

[cofe]

any new/potentially unreported problems?

[neil h]

people using heels on early doors are the ones smoking crack.

The rules for the top of early doors were a sort of joke, unfortunatley no one remembered

I agree with jim, i have never used a heel on ED, I kind of remember back in days, the first time i did it, someone told me I had to do what jim said, So I did it that way, it does make it slighty harder

[Nibile]

curbar reminds me about one of the best day out ever.
it was a perfect, cool, bright monday. five people there. did alot of problems quick, and that was something really new for me.
fuckin' excellent.
i can still feel the wind.

[a dense loner]

it was remembered kes just din't reply with all this crack nonsense thats doing the rounds

[Nibile]

i used my left heel on GW.
do i have to climb it again without?

[Dave Flanagan]

Strawberries 5+ no fucking way 6b.