[unclesomebody]

It turns out I don't want a Canon one at all! I had been misinformed about the adapter that is arriving. I'm after a Nikon mount prime lens of 50mm or wider, but it must be f/1.8 or larger (ie. f/1.4 or even 1.2). I don't need it to be an autofocus lense, any old lense from the 70's or 80's will do. If you have something lying about then please let me know before I resort to bidding wars on ebay for overpriced junk.

Many Thanks.

ps. can a mod please delete my other Canon thread, as it's totally wrong.

[Johnny Brown]

You will be unlikely to get anything other than a 50mm faster than f2. Nikon did a manual 35/1.4 though it will be lareg and pricey.  You should be able to get a 50/1.8 very cheaply though, even for a Nikkor.

What are you using it for?

[unclesomebody]

I've built an 35mm adapter for my video camera, but I now require a lense for it. The problem is the light loss from the adapter. I expect it to be about 1 stop, perhaps 2, so that is why I am trying to get a 1.4. A 50mm 1.4 would be a good starting point, if I can find one for a decent price. I would very much like a wide angle though, but I think I'm going to have to either go down to 2 or 2.8 for that, as you say. Have you got any spare lenses? 

[dave]

i'm pretty sure nikon did like a 28mm f/1.4 AF (££££) and shit like a 24mm f/2 as well as the 35mm, bt they'll all be expensive. If you want a decent lens at 50mm for cheap then look for a nikon series-E 50mm f/1.8, almost no money at all and they are still ultra sharp, the only real difference with todays 50mm is the coating won't be so blinging. check out all the online 2nd-hand shops as well as ebay (like this)

if you want a old 24mm 2.8 not in amazing nick but still works i've got one you could haggle for.

[Johnny Brown]

What kind of video camera?

Be aware that if the sensor/ film is smaller than a 35mm frame (which, unless you've got a proffessional film movie camera, it will be) you won't get the same angle of view as on the camera the lens was designed for.

This is the same issue as with using 35mm lenses on most digital slrs - all your lenses effectively get longer and wide angles become expensive. You can read about this issue being debated ad infinitum by idiots who can't understand it on any cmarea forum or UKC.

[unclesomebody]

JB. I do understand that, but I am nto buying an 28mm lens to BE 28mm, only to be wider that what a 50mm lens would be. I think I'm going to pick up a 50mm 1.8 and then try to get a 24mm or 28mm 2.8 for when there is enough light.

dave, I have pm'd you.

[Johnny Brown]

Have you got any spare lenses?

I've got a cupboard full of old lenses, adaptors, bodies and shit - not much in Nikon, but enough to cannabalise to make stuff work when I need it to. Drop round next time you're in town and we can try to cobble something together or at least work out what you need.

[unclesomebody]

Very kind of you. I'll bring the whole setup round so you can take a look and tell me what you think.

[Jim]

you can borrow my 50mm 1.8 if you want to try it out unc

[unclesomebody]

Thanks Jim, I might do that before I splash out.

[unclesomebody]

What kind of video camera?

Be aware that if the sensor/ film is smaller than a 35mm frame (which, unless you've got a proffessional film movie camera, it will be) you won't get the same angle of view as on the camera the lens was designed for.

This is the same issue as with using 35mm lenses on most digital slrs - all your lenses effectively get longer and wide angles become expensive. You can read about this issue being debated ad infinitum by idiots who can't understand it on any cmarea forum or UKC.

I've been thinking about this for a while, and I retract my previous reply. Initially I was bemuddled because now I can see clearly and I can also explain clearly what is going on! I will indeed have the full angle of lens, because I will be using a full 35mm frame. How you may be thinking? Well, it works like this. The lens is attached to the adapter I have, which consists of some spacers and a ground glass focusing screen. The lens at the front will focus the image onto the ground glass, and my video camera will record the image that is being projected onto the ground glass. This will make way more sense, if it doesn't, when you see it all.

Now I really want a 24mm/28mm lens for some nice wide shots.

[Johnny Brown]

Ahh I see, i wondered if you were doing something along these lines.

There are ways of doing this without a focussing screen, I've only seen then used for macro shots with massive DoF though.

Thinking on though, presumably you want the focussing screen as an effect? Otherwise you could just use the orignal lens.

You're estimation of 1-2 stops light loss is probably conservative, however using a very fast lens wide open will give you very little depth of field, and focussing will be tricky. Or is that the whole point behind it?

[dave]

could this be the worlds most complicatedly setup HD filming of a one-armed pullup?

[Johnny Brown]

Bring it round Feynman, I've got a safe you can break while you're at it. I've got a slection of primes from 21/3.5, 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/1.4 up to 400mm.

Plus we've got Keenus' fingerboard installed in the cellar, so we can try it out.

[unclesomebody]

You're estimation of 1-2 stops light loss is probably conservative, however using a very fast lens wide open will give you very little depth of field, and focussing will be tricky. Or is that the whole point behind it?

Yes it is. Short depth of field is the goal here. Going for that film look...

Bring it round Feynman, I've got a safe you can break while you're at it. I've got a slection of primes from 21/3.5, 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/1.4 up to 400mm.

Plus we've got Keenus' fingerboard installed in the cellar, so we can try it out.

A selection of primes hey... you know how to float my boat sailor. Perhaps a Mercer Prime, a wilson prime, or maybe a Supersingular prime? Anything beyond the order of 10^100.