UKBouldering.com

Open Projex (Read 4473 times)

dave

  • Guest
Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 11:41:00 am
Word up.

Winter is aproaching, and when it gets bitter I'll be wanting some entertainment away from the usual stuff. So does anyone have/know any open projects on da grit?? I don't mean your personal secret stuff (unless you really want to share it with us...) but maybe open projects that might be worth a few hours entertainment during the winter. Can even be a good variation/eliminate/dyno on something existing. So come on, don't be shy! :wink: Get them catalouged here, then after the winter we can see if any got done.

I was gonna get the ball rolling here, but then i realised i can't think of anything! Got a couple of nigh-on impossible ones i've never tried if anyone wants to hear them?......

Flava

dave

  • Guest
#1 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 01:32:24 pm
Come on guys, throw me a frikin' bone here!

So embararsing have a thread that no-one replys to.......sigh

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#2 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 01:57:24 pm
Man, I just don't know - any open projects left are going to be so bleedin' 'ard that I probably just walk past them mumbling "bloody impossible..." or something.

The one I always think of is that project dyno at Wimberry - one day, it might be done, but it's one beeeeg dyno. Having said that, have you seen that V10 dyno at Brimham? Crazy!

There must be a fair few improbably bits of grit left - I think Jon Pearson of Yorkshiregrit.com recently posted some on Cocktalk - ah yes, here it is...

fatboyslimfast may well know of a few.....

dave

  • Guest
#3 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 02:02:21 pm
The only one i've looked at on that list is the one near sloping beauty, which looks menkle but i bet it will go someday.

As for the wimberry dyno, i haven't been there in years, but i would like to try it. Meant to go this summer but then summer didn't happen.

jonP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +2/-0
#4 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 03:14:51 pm
A few more at Earl -

the wall right of Desert Island Arete
the wall directly beneath Wainman's Pinnacle
the arete in the bay left of Mindbomb

jonP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +2/-0
#5 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 03:17:13 pm
... and the direct start to the hanging crack on the buttress right of Erasor Slab.

Big Frank

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 547
  • Karma: +0/-0
#6 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 09:32:13 pm
hey up Jon lad!

At least on this Forum we talk climbing and not a load of fucking shite!

justfunk_

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 45
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • http://www.geocities.com/justfunk_dj/staffscene.html
#7 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 10:12:33 pm
Wall left of carless torque,
Direct into not to be taken away,
A direct into the Cube, roaches.

direct into who needs ready brek, now that would be tastey!

And my most wanted project. . ..  Direct up the prow  (ramshaw) L of night of lust.  Highball 8a+  or more like E6 7a *** .        


And i could go on. ..

Im have just been SO waiting for this cold/crisp conditions. .

jonP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +2/-0
#8 Open Projex
October 18, 2002, 10:15:44 pm
FH- If you just browse 'rocktalk' rather than all the forums, Cocktalk's not too bad.

So how many of the seven Earl projects I listed are you planning to do this winter?  I'm planning to ignore all of them cos they're bastard hard...

Check out the Font vids - most entertaining!  I'm ashamed to admit it, but Holey Moley is one of the finest problems I've ever done, and it's nowhere near Yorkshire...

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#9 Open Projex
October 19, 2002, 07:49:17 am
Quote from: "yorkshiregrit"
Check out the Font vids.

Jon, are these somewhere on YG? Like to see 'em.

Like your new Lords Seat / Swastika topos btw - I can feel a visit coming on...

jonP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +2/-0
#10 Open Projex
October 19, 2002, 04:01:00 pm
Sorry, not for public consumption!  You're not missing much, they're amusing incidents rather than hardcore cranking.

jonP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +2/-0
#11 Open Projex
October 20, 2002, 07:25:23 pm
... more Earl projects!

the big arete right of Grape Nut
the wall left of Handy Andy's
the right side of the Gimp arete.

So that's at least 10 projects at Earl - go to it!

hongkongstuey

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1422
  • Karma: +46/-0
    • http://www.hongkongclimbing.com
#12 Open Projex
October 21, 2002, 06:27:23 am
Quote from: "yorkshiregrit"
they're amusing incidents rather than hardcore cranking.


do any of them involve Mr Spark - think he gets back to town tomorrow and any piss taking material would be much appreciated

Big Frank

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 547
  • Karma: +0/-0
#13 Open Projex
October 21, 2002, 08:45:36 am
Quote from: "yorkshiregrit"
FH- If you just browse 'rocktalk' rather than all the forums, Cocktalk's not too bad.

So how many of the seven Earl projects I listed are you planning to do this winter?  I'm planning to ignore all of them cos they're bastard hard...

Check out the Font vids - most entertaining!  I'm ashamed to admit it, but Holey Moley is one of the finest problems I've ever done, and it's nowhere near Yorkshire...


Those are an absolute masterclass in how not to spot, there again cant remeber you ever spotting!!!
In the clip of your pal on the 7a whose the guy in the jeans and the leather jacket checking out the problem to the left, getting in the way of the camera then adjusting your mats???.........then he just fucks off!!

As for personal projects I have one or two at Brimham, would like to get on that V5 on the front right of the heart shaped boulder for one and finish that V5 arete to the right of pommel.
I went up with the kids on Saturday afternoon did half a dozen problems (nothing harder than V4), but with them you cant work a problem.

As for Cocktalk, I dropped out of the top 40 last week!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal