[Three Nine]

Hi all,

(I am just experimenting with gentle fingerboarding for the first time, having recovered recently from some finger probs)

I've got a first digit 2cm rail, like a campus rung (rounded edge and nicely sanded) like what Dave Mcleod reckons is good. As i am recovering from an A2 prob and am generally pants at openhanded strength (i crimp everything - hence the pully injury), I thought i would try and improve openhanded strength.

My problem here is, if i openhand fully then my little finger does not fit on and I am just on 3 on each hand, and I cant hang this with both hands. If I try and openhand with all fingers on (which I can do) my middle finger goes half-crimped, and I can hang this.

I can hang the rail half-crimped for longer than I would like to train max isometric strength, but not at all one handed. How do i make the transition?

any beta on this?

[GCW]

Tried using a bit of counter-weight so you can hang the hold?


Personally I find I use 3 types of grip.
Fully open- using 3 fingers with thumb and little floating.



Semi-open- all 4 fingers, wrist slightly supinated and middle finger a tad flexed.



Full-on crimp- Extended DIPJs and flexed PIPJs.



I assume you mean you can do crimps but can't (physically do the semi-opens.  Plus you are too weak for full open?
Anyway, I try to vary the grip when training (the Moon Routine is pretty good; cheers Buoux 8c).  PlanetScary may also help.  Use some counter-weight as required and build up.  Try sticking "fingerboard" into the UKB search-o-matic and see what pops up.
Sorry if I'm mis-understanding.
Sorry for the shite pics.

[Three Nine]

thanks for that GCW. I can hang 'semi-open', but not 'fully open' on a first joint rail. I can hang semi open on both hands for 15 sec or something, but not at all fully open. Perhaps I should try this grip on a larger rail and work up?

By counterweight do you mean a bit of bungee cord or something? If so should this be to your waist or to the other hand (ie. like one-armer differential grip training)?

[dave]

no-one can hang fully openhand and still have little finger on the hold unless they are some kind of genetic freak who's fingers are all the same length. this is normal.

If 2 hands if 2 easy (pun) and 1 hand is impossible, then do 2 hands with added weight(belt), or 1 hand with assistance (bungee?). This is also quite normal.

[GCW]

1.  I'm not sure I'd advocate hangs of 15 seconds.  It's generally best to aim at 6-8 seconds or so.
2.  Counterweight can be bungee cord if you like.  Helps on the one armed stuff and you can attach it to a harness for 2 handed work.  I use a pulley with weights mainly so I can judge improvements and more closely control the level of work.
3.  Make sure you fully warm up and warm down.
4.  Don't be too tempted to go for big gains quickly.  You will hurt yourself!

There's a lot of knowledge on here.  Have a search.  Some for starters:
01
02
03
04
hang duration

Useful 8a.nu article

That's my tuppence worth.  I'm sure other opinions will arrive shortly.  Have fun, but play safe!

[Three Nine]

re the 15 sec, that's what i mean ie. its too easy to hang with both hands, but impossible to do it with 1.

wasnt sure really how to go about warming up?

I had tried doing 10 mins pulse raiser, then a few sets of pullups on a bar and then some open handed hanging on the bar before moving on to the rail. Is this the sort of thing?

Will have a look at the articles. cheers for the advice..

[GCW]

I tend to do a general warm up- pulse raiser if you like.  Then stretches from back to fingers.  Then gentle stuff- pull ups, press ups etc- just to loosen up before some hangs on bigger holds.  Rest 5-10 minutes before going onto the routines.

Neil Gresham's guide on PlanetDaunting

[erm, sam]

standing on some bathroom scales allows you to take off a measureable amount of weight without arsing around with counterweights etc...

[GCW]

I get depressed if I stand on weighing scales