who's for a thumb war?!anyway serpico how do you crimp without the thumb? (genuine question)
Ok, but does this not help develop some thumb strength? and is therefore useful for that position? i'm sure it must, I crimp like that all the time and my thumbs are beastly
I've met a genetic freak before who can actually use his thumb as an active crimping finger rather than just a bracing one. Astounding.
Quote from: Paul B on December 03, 2007, 04:17:02 pmOk, but does this not help develop some thumb strength? and is therefore useful for that position? i'm sure it must, I crimp like that all the time and my thumbs are beastly I wondered about this and figured that thumbs were so much stronger than fingers anyway that it wasn't a big deal.
where this open hand trains crimp strength bull shit comes from i don't know.
Grips and exercisesThere are three main types of grip to train when using a fingerboard (see campus article grips). I recommend, however, that you pay particular attention to working your open hand strength. It is the weakest position for most climbers and possibly the most important. It’s worth noting that improving open hand strength will also make you strong in the crimped position but not the other way around.
gospel then.
Quotewhere this open hand trains crimp strength bull shit comes from i don't know. Its on the Moon site here:QuoteGrips and exercisesThere are three main types of grip to train when using a fingerboard (see campus article grips). I recommend, however, that you pay particular attention to working your open hand strength. It is the weakest position for most climbers and possibly the most important. It's worth noting that improving open hand strength will also make you strong in the crimped position but not the other way around.
Grips and exercisesThere are three main types of grip to train when using a fingerboard (see campus article grips). I recommend, however, that you pay particular attention to working your open hand strength. It is the weakest position for most climbers and possibly the most important. It's worth noting that improving open hand strength will also make you strong in the crimped position but not the other way around.