[galpinos]

I posted on ukc but to no avail so I thought I'd try to tap the training wisdom of ukb. My computer at work blocks access to most sport/climbing sites so I've tried to google for stuff but everything seem blocked. Anyhoo....

I've got access to a gym and some metollius rock rings (http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Training_Equipment.html 1/3 of the way down).

How do I train for routes? Doing dead hangs four nights a week, and strength on pro and antagonistic muscles, some running etc. but none of this is going to help with route fitness, only strength.

In my brief breaks back in the UK I'm keen to get some routes done (if it's stopped raining) so want to be as fit as possible. Was thinking of doing some "on the minute" exercises, eg. 10 pull ups of the medium edges on the minute till failure?

Any other tried and tested (or otherwise) ideas/regimes.

Cheers in advance...
 
 

[webbo]

back in the day when walls were verticle and pull ups ruled the world.we used to use a finger board on the lat machine.i.e. two wooden finger holds nailed to a plank with a cord fixed so you can hang it on the machine.
then starting off at 20ks do 10 reps(get some one to move the pin)then 10 at 35k and so on till you can't do 10 reps.then go back down the stack.
i don't know how good this actually is for route fitness but it does make your arms hurt.

[nash1]

I am very much in the same situation. I have read as much as I could find on the web about such fun things. Dave McCleod reckons that 10 reps is a big no no for us climbers. Basically 3-8 reps for strength and 15+ for stamina.
I have been doing finger curls with dumbells, 50 reps with each hand x 3 with 12kg dumbells, gets a major pump going.
Also 20 reps on the pull down machine x 3 with the weight being that I can just about manage the last set. Same with undercling excercises, I use the rock rings and rig it up so I do undercling pulls (not bicep curls), and 5 reps for strength, 20 for stamina.
I guess it does help, but the sessions only last for an hour or so instead of days at the crag lasting 8 hours and doing 5 routes or so. Still, it must have at least a placebo effect eh!!

I also do deadhangs with the rock rings, fingers and arms. It's all a far cry from the real thing, but what else is there to do in Libya?

[galpinos]

It's all a far cry from the real thing, but what else is there to do in Libya?

Libya, nice! I'm out in India at the mo. Would be great if there wasn't a meter of rain forecast this month.

Hey ho, deadhangs and lots of reps it is!

[Fiend]

It's all a far cry from the real thing, but what else is there to do in Libya?

Libya, nice! I'm out in India at the mo. Would be great if there wasn't a meter of rain forecast this month.

Hey ho, deadhangs and lots of reps it is!

Dude, we already had our metre of rain in the UK 

[galpinos]

[/quote]

Dude, we already had our metre of rain in the UK 
[/quote]

My heart bleeds. 

The first day it properly rained we got 80cm in 12 hours, there's been plenty more since.

I was told yesterday, "oh, the monsson will properly get going in July."

[SA Chris]

Well it is kind of expected to get a lot of rain in India in the monsoon season. The amount we have had here is a bit more than the usual British summer.

[Dr T]

This'll be one for Nib's the Italian master of training
got this out of climbing mag and tried it for the first time yesterday and man am I feeling it today

Its something called Tabatas, a little circuit type thing that claims to increase power and endurance by forcing the muscles to excercise whilst full of lactic acid hence improving their ability to flush lactic acid and operated when pumped (and yes it gives one hell of a pump)

So it goes like this-

Four exercises (this tabata concentrates on upper body-shoulders and arms-but I'm an quick internet search will find core versions etc)

1 Bent row - standing (two dumbells simultaneously)
2 Lat Pull down
3 Bicep Curls - standing (two dumbells simultaneously)
4 Wrist cul - sitting forearms on thighs wrists up

Weights - approx' 60% of your one rep' max (don't be a hero with the weight you will collapse in a world of pain) I won't embarrass myself by revealing the weights I used yesterday....

So the circuit goes like this

each exercise for four minutes - 20 seconds on then a ten second rest etc - ie works out at 8 sets in four min's
the a two minute rest (or two min 10 sec if you add in the rest at the end of the set) then straight into the next set.

requires a little planning to work out the correct weight but feels like the most effective circuit I've done in a long time

advice given was try an remember the average number of reps for each exercise (ie reps per 20 sec interval - it will decrease through the 4 mins - so that you can keep an eye on how you go over a month or so)

Apparently twice a week is sufficient - you wouldn't want to do more......

[Doylo]

Not in the gym but on the board I've been doing on the minute circuits for the last few months, started off with a 17 move circuit and started trying it on the minute, when i got to 11 times i added 7 moves and tried that on the minute, i'm currently doing it about five times. It gets me REALLY pumped and the body learns how to deal with lactic acid which is what its all about if you ask me.

[galpinos]

Cheers everyone.

Dr T, I'm not sure if I'm man enough for that routine but I'll give it a go.

SA Chris, I realise that you've got to expect rain in India in the monsoon season, it's just the city's (Mumbai) inability to cope that's amazing. On the drive to work one day last week, the car was actually floating (and stalled, and was letting in water like the proverbial sieve). This was in a wealthy business area!

The amount of people who die every time it gets bad is awful.

[jwi]

Doylo, what you're doing sounds very much like something Güllich did to prepare himself for hard Redpoints in the Franken. Can't for the life of me remember where I read about it though, and I have currently no access to most of my climbing literature.

[Doylo]

Doylo, what you're doing sounds very much like something Güllich did to prepare himself for hard Redpoints in the Franken. Can't for the life of me remember where I read about it though, and I have currently no access to most of my climbing literature.

you are correct - action directe here i come!

[north_country_boy]

sounds like a plan Doylo, definately works, espeically if combined with laps on shorter power based problems just below your limit....reducing the rest periods between....

Beasting the Project this weekend?

[Doylo]

i fear the cove is too wet at the moment, i have many projects in wales though. When you off to Europe?

[north_country_boy]

24th July - 4 September!  Well psyched, but not much time to train at the moment due to work, and having to spend time on my van before I go. Any trips planned?
Malham does seem very wet at the moment, although last week the conditions were perfect (if your route was dry), decent temp, breezy, cool rock.....however it seems Overnite has started to suffer since, espeically high up....

Fortunately/unfortunately my only ongoing project in the peak is sopping wet....

[Paz]

, but what else is there to do in Libya?

Are you telling me there's no trad climbing?  There's a fair bit in Algeria, at least in the Hoggar, and I've heard people speculating on Libya.

Or is it not worth it because of what people call `the political situation' when e.g. they mean `there's too many trigger happy bastards with guns'.

[nash1]

, but what else is there to do in Libya?

 e.g. they mean `there's too many trigger happy bastards with guns'.

It's safe enough, no probs there, but I have never seen a solid bit of rock. Only bin around Tripoli and in the eastern desert though. There must be some decent rock somewhere, but alas, work needs to be done... I have built me a 3 rung campus board now and hung a fingerboard, so bad elbows here I come!

[Paz]

That's the stereotype, like your image of Egypt west of the Suez canal (i.e. apart from the Sinai).  But I was really surprised when I saw photos of the Hoggar to find there was shit there further south in the Sahara.  not like Sandstone choss either, Columnar volcanic pillars (and granite domes?) - assuming it's solid, it's probably perfect for trad climbing.  Sad to hear about the rain though!

[Doylo]

24th July - 4 September!  Well psyched, but not much time to train at the moment due to work, and having to spend time on my van before I go. Any trips planned?
Malham does seem very wet at the moment, although last week the conditions were perfect (if your route was dry), decent temp, breezy, cool rock.....however it seems Overnite has started to suffer since, espeically high up....

Fortunately/unfortunately my only ongoing project in the peak is sopping wet....

Might see you in Ceuse big boy, we'll see.....