[Nibile]

yesterday the guru wanted me as a laboratory cavie: he had just bought a cardiofrequencymeter (spell???) but couldnt train due to injury, so made me train with that thing.
besides bearing all the commiseration glances from all the people in the gym (i cant dare to imagine their comments...), it was funny discovering that on top of a crimpy 9 move problem on 30° wall i was going at 183 pulses per minute.

the guru said it could be helpful also for power training, not as a specific training tool, but more for checking "progress".
so, anybody uses one? especially stamina monsters or bolt clippers?

[webbo]

i'm wondering wether your talking about a heart rate monitor.

[Nibile]

yes, that thing 

[SA Chris]

Also for the word cavy, in English it's a guinea pig. I think Cavy is the family they belong to?

In no way being critical just pointing it out.

Be curious to know my hear rate peaked at, I have a bad habit of not breathing on strenous problems, and topping out red in the face.

[webbo]

i've never worn mine bouldering,but i have doing weights didn't go that high. compared with going over some col in the alps on my bike when i got 200+

[chappers]

i have one, out running, if i push myself as hard as i can, ive got it over 200. thought my heart was going to explode, so i dont wear it now, id rather not know!

[account_inactive]

Most of the research points to no link between heart rate and climbing fitness

Good for cardio though

[Serpico]

Because in traditional endurance sports (running, rowing etc) the large muscles of the legs are the prime movers the capacity of the heart to pump blood, the ability of the lungs to oxygenate that blood, and the ability of the body to remove lactate from the blood are all challenged, it makes for a relationship between them which is not the same when applied to climbing, which uses the much smaller musculature of the upper body.
Moreover heart rate is not constant across different angles: a 7b+ on a very steep jugfest  could possibly elicit a higher heart rate than an 8a vertical crimpfest. Other factors like anxiety, apnea (breath holding) and the high degree of isometric contraction involved in climbing can also affect heart rate.
One possible use for a HR monitor as a measure of difficulty could be in a situation where you are climbing for a long period of time using any holds on constant angle wall eg: ARCing on a bouldering wall using all the holds.

[Adam Lincoln]

Just for reference, in case anyones wondered how many calories you burn in a session i wore my heart rate monitor tonight at the wall. I know everyones different and depending on what your session is, determines calories burnt.

I just did an endurance session, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, 4 sets, just moving around a very slight overhanging wall, and burnt 1000 calories bang on. That included a light warm up and included the sitting around in between.

So you can get an idea of what a typical session doing routes down the wall can burn. Better than going the gym and its more fun. Just put some headphones on and away you go.

[Nibile]

I just did an endurance session, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, 4 sets,

when i trained with the monitor, the guru also checked the total amount of time i spent actually climbing: it added up to four minutes.
luckily, after that i could also have some decent climbing, instead of just training before uncle arrival!!!

[jwi]

I just did an endurance session, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, 4 sets, just moving around a very slight overhanging wall, and burnt 1000 calories bang on. That included a light warm up and included the sitting around in between.

This doesn't seem right. At all. Quite a lot of climbers eat less than 2500 calories a day. With a basal metabolic rate of say 1600 a 2 hour endurance session would create a 100 calories deficiency even if the rest of the day is spent vegetating.

[webbo]

how does your monitor work out the cals.i used one where it just based it on your h/r without any personal details.my current one bases it on max h/r, age, sex,[i can't remember if it uses your weight as well]
to burn 1000 cals in the session you describe seems alot as doing a indoor turbo session on the bike of 10 min warm up then 6X5min hard h/r up to 90% of max with 1 min easy in between.then a 10 min warm down only burns 550 cals.

[Three Nine]

I just did an endurance session, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, 4 sets, just moving around a very slight overhanging wall, and burnt 1000 calories bang on. That included a light warm up and included the sitting around in between.

This doesn't seem right. At all. Quite a lot of climbers eat less than 2500 calories a day. With a basal metabolic rate of say 1600 a 2 hour endurance session would create a 100 calories deficiency even if the rest of the day is spent vegetating.

Who the f*ck eats less than 2.5k cal a day??! anorexic climbers? I eat like 4k at least, every day.

[jwi]

I just did an endurance session, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, 4 sets, just moving around a very slight overhanging wall, and burnt 1000 calories bang on. That included a light warm up and included the sitting around in between.

This doesn't seem right. At all. Quite a lot of climbers eat less than 2500 calories a day. With a basal metabolic rate of say 1600 a 2 hour endurance session would create a 100 calories deficiency even if the rest of the day is spent vegetating.

Who the f*ck eats less than 2.5k cal a day??! anorexic climbers? I eat like 4k at least, every day.

Wow! You sure do burn a lot of fuel man. So you're what? A 16 stone professional weightlifter?

[Three Nine]

an 11 stone skinny punter...

2.5k cal is not very much at all... especially for an active person climbing/training

(and mine is including nearly 1k cal alone from irn-bru i guess)

[Richie Crouch]

I dread to think of what my calorie intake does to my insides 

It might hit me in 6 years time... but hopefully it's just pure genetic luck! 

[GCW]

I get 2,500cal from Stella and whisky alone