[sjw]

I've done the searches 'n all that, just link me if i've missed the obvious....

Never done any before but we're planning a trip to Dorset in August to so some DWS. Is that Rockfax: Deep Water guide worth buying? Where should we go and where shouldn't we go??...any info or advice would be wicked. as. I'm keen as a bean.

[Somebody's Fool]

...is the only world class climbing in Britain.

Connor Cove and Stair Hole are the big two in Dorset, but Portland also has some amazing routes. Portland is more bouldery and a lot less intimidating if you are wanting to ease yourselves in gently.  The upcoming Rockfax guide wil be well worth buying.  It's supposed to be very comprehensive.  It'll be very useful for tide information and the like (as you can imagine this is fairly crucial).

It will rather depend on your grade, but highlights include:  Freeborn Man*, Great Shark Hunt, Fathoms, Captain Blood's Cavern, Davey Jones' Lock-off, The Conger, the big corner to the right of The Conger, The Vanishing* (all at Connor Cove), Laws Traverse, Horny Lil' Devil, Hornier Than Thou, Animal Magnetism, Gates of Greyskull, Mark of the Beast (maybe this year), Window of Opportunity, Maypole (all at Stair Hole), Bare Reputation, Russian Roulette, Swinging Nineties, Rumble in the Jungle, Crab Party*, Octopus Weed and Tentacle Master (all at Cave Hole Portland).  I could go on. But basically those three crags will keep you occupied for a few days.

This is just from personal experience.  There's probably loads more that I haven't mentioned but I always seem to end up at these three venues just because they're so good.

Hope some of that is useful.

* Well fucking Mexico.

[Paul B]

can someone remind me of the name of the route that traverses of a big ledge (approached by ab), a bit further along the cost than conner cover (It keeps evading me)

[sjw]

Nice one, cheers.

I'm not on a ticking mission so easier grade stuff  in nice settings is what I'm all about. I wouldn't mind getting amongst some cave action though, I've seen photos of Lulworth (that's Stair hole yes?) and it looks amaaaaaaaazing. PROPER psyched me...

[Somebody's Fool]

Paul:  It might well be Fathoms.  It goes leftwards up a diagonal groove/overlap.

Smoggie:  For lower grade stuff I think Cave Hole and Lulworth (Stair Hole) would be worthy introductions.

My bad self:  Go to Dorset soon.

[sjw]

ace, thanks very much for the knowledge. one last daft question....best place to buy an inflatable dingy??

[SA Chris]

Lidl, Costco, ASDA.

If you don't want to splash out on the Rockfax publication, the little Dorset DWS guide has more than enough info for your first trip.

The Rockfax one covers Devonshire, Wales and some other spots too. Although if it covers Craig Stirling, Aberdeenshire's premier spot, I will be surprised.

[Paul B]

Paul:  It might well be Fathoms.  It goes leftwards up a diagonal groove/overlap.

Thats it - awesome route, get on that!

[Paul B]

there are some good photos of some of the routes listed here:

http://www.keithsharplesphotography.com/ksp/gal_dwsolo.asp

[clm]

i recently found a primo deep water soloing venue which will remain a secret until i sort the piccies.

[clm]

well its not that secret, just obscure to us britishers.  West coast of ireland.



Mt shit rainy photos to follow

[sjw]

Sorry to dig this post back up but two things...

1. Got the new rockfax dws guide and it's top banana, totally inspired and physced! the info on tides and grading is really useful too.

2. Could anyone give some local knowledge of a decent campsites anywhere between swanage and portland? I've been looking on internet but I'm not getting very far at all.

ta!  simon.

[Idol eyes]

Any one know about Aberdeen area...

[richieb]

Seeing as SAChris is away on leave, I will attempt to step in as temporary Scottish correspondant.
Craig Stirling, about 10 miles south of Aberdeen is in the Rockfax DWS guide. The venue for the last 2 Scottish DWS festivals. Theres some great routes here above deep but obviously cold water. The topouts can be abit sketchy/muddy but most of the rock is superb.
Heres the crag classic 'Lean Meat' - E3 or 6b+ ish.

Theres some stuff on the Scottishclimbs forums about this years festival.

[Idol eyes]

Looks good! might be back on Tartan turf in the next day or so...
What about cornwall!