[SA Chris]

Don't forget the classic figure of 4. Essential

(if you are a drytooler)

[AndiT]

Don't forget about the unorthodox figure of 4!


Surely anywhere you can use a one armer, you can also use a figure of 4 and save the worry that someone might call you up on doing them 'snatched' (oo-er)

[jwi]

Well it's bleeding obvious that a one-armer is not a climbing move. Neither is a front-level, a shoulder press, a situp etc. However, does it help climbing to become stronger and more fit?

Doing intra-muscular coordination training and recruitment with the goal of making one paltry one-armer will not help, but stronger lats and biceps sure help. At least on several routes I've tried.

[AndiT]

I've had to do front levers on routes.

[jwi]

I've had to do front levers on routes.

Well, I certainly hope you held the lever static for more than  2 second. Otherwise I'm forced to give you a point-reduction 

[Shy Yorkshireman]

I think you will find that a one armer is a move on a route. Now i can't do one on a bar but i've done one on the top crack of nectar and if any one can tell me how to do it without i'll make them a paper hat!

I'm not the only one on this either Adam (i'm only 5 foot high) Long also did it the same way, and he can't do one on a bar either. Or so he reckons, but anyone who can throw laps on Brad pit in a yellow files jacket is not to be trusted.

[Paul B]

Give me an example of where you need to hang from one arm, with no other points of contact and no possibility of matching and then having to lock off to gain the next hold. I've yet to come across this. Maybe plenty of topclimbers can do them, but there are also plenty of shit ones who can do them too. I think SF's one armism is significantly more useful, albeit with slightly less training benefit.

Being able to do one of those crucifix moves off of Mision Impossible however, now they are worth training for...

Oh come on this is just your anti training stance shining through. I can't think of one specifically where you have to (I remember uncle finding one in the frankenjura somewhere) but there are plenty of routes with shit foot holds and no possibility of matching, where the ability to one arm will significantly improve your chances of doing the move.

[Monolith]

Completely, wholeheartedly and honestly speaking, I want to do it to show off. Non-climbers find it incredibly impressive, and let's face it, there's plenty of non-climbers around to impress!

The fact that it might give me a wholesome distribution of strength throughout my arm is of little consequence really.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Completely, wholeheartedly and honestly speaking, I want to do it to show off. Non-climbers find it incredibly impressive, and let's face it, there's plenty of non-climbers around to impress!

Beware the showing off factor remember Andy Brown of Andy Browns wall fame, one finger one armer in the pub after his work mates talked him into it. snapped his tendon. Couple of opps laters, and he's become a fell runner.

[Monolith]

Trust me my friend, I will NEVER EVER show off in the arm department. I'm happy to leave Loose Canon Bradbury and Co. to run that show.

[unclesomebody]

This is such a simple argument to lay to rest. Specific training to be able to do one arms will not make you a better climber. Getting stronger in general will make you better. Let's just take a look at the climbers in Britain who are operating on atleast a National level (bouldering/sport);

Gaz Parry
Andy Earl
John Gaskins
James Pearson
Richard Simpson
Ryan Pasquill
Tyler Landman
Steve Mclure
Ben Moon
Dave Macleod
(there may be some more operating at 8B/8b+).

Every single one of these people can do a one armer. However, correlation is not causation, every statistician knows this! By this I mean that being able to do a one armer is not why these people are good, it is part of a fundamental level of strength that is required to operate at this level. It is a bi-product of being a strong climber. If you can do a one armer on a campus rung (I expect all of the above can) then you are going to be in a much better position to climb hard things.

However, we all know that climbing is not just about doing repeated one armers. It requires technique, subtle footwork, etc, and all those people listed above ALSO have this. They are all exceptionally skilled climbers. It pisses me off sometimes that people can't see through a climbers strength. The reason that climber is better than you is not because he can do a one armer and you can't, it's because he has a better understanding of momentum, body position, footwork, etc etc.

To get better you need to raise your game in every way. You can't just improve in one sector. If anyone wants to say I am just a strong oaf of a climber then I would happily go climbing on slabs/walls and continue to prove that I am not technically inept. Perhaps people, with their rose tinted glasses, see strength far too readily and not technique. Perhaps they don't know how to look for technique. I see it all the time when I am lucky to climb with people like Nigel, Adam, James, etc. Watch someone like Danny Cattell in the cave. He doesn't just have more strength that you, he has wonderful mastery of movement to go with this strength.

Monolith, doing one armers to show off is perfectly fine and I applaud you for wanting to do it. I know you don't expect to suddenly be climbing loads better the day you do a one armer. But the process of doing it will raise your strength level, and I'm sure along the way you are also increasing your levels in other areas.

So, rant over. I can still do one armers and I can still burn you off on a slab.  

[SA Chris]

Wise words. I would wad you, but I think it's wrong to be wadded more than once for the same post. Like getting tried twice for the same crime.

[AndiT]

 :agree:But in that, you still need to accept that some great climbers can't do them, despite being strong and some fat fitters at Batemans can do them without even realising that they could. I can't do them, never have been able to, but then I've never needed too. I'd like to be able to do them, but only to show-boat.

I do think some people find them easier than others, regardless of how strong or light they are because of their genetics, but I don't want to go down that line.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Have you ever Had to do a one armer on a slab? I've seen someone do one!

Pob on 3 Blind Mice Awesome stuff!

[Paul B]

:agree:But in that, you still need to accept that some great climbers can't do them, despite being strong and some fat fitters at Batemans

Out of the people currently operating at the top level in each discipline who cannot do a one armer? I do appreciate that some fat biffers and total punters can do them but this misses the point made above that its more than just strength that seperates these people from the best climbers out there.

[Percy B]

You reckon fatty Parry can do a one armer?!?! Only if he's had one arm removed and there's a pork pie tied to the pull-up bar.......
Anyway, what happened to the excuse that ability to do one-armers is related to body size/shape? I've been using that one for years (although I did once manage one solitary one armer in about 2001, and haven't ever felt the need to try again. As I remember, its all about remembering to pull really, really fucking hard.........

[Nibile]

one armes are also an easy way to measure progress.
if you get one without any specific training, just as a spin off result from other routines, youre on the right path.

[Johnny Brown]

Every single one of these people can do a one armer.

Uncle, you state this as gospel fact. Only fact is, you don't actually know if this is true.
The only folk I know who can do true controlled one armers from straight arm are either physical freaks like Ru and Paul B or training fanatics like yourself.

but there are plenty of routes with shit foot holds and no possibility of matching,

Be aware on the rock matching one hand atop another is not 'cheating'. Or on your wrist for that matter. I can't envision a move where this wouldn't be possible.

[Paul B]

I can think of plenty where although your lower hand is not dong much to propel you upwards it would be a hell of a lot less use wrapped around your wrist, dangerous bro's the rockover method for example, Salar (static method), The sissy.

I'd be very surprised if all the people on Uncle's list can't do a one armer, 7 of them definitely can and as no one has ever seen Gaskins (in planet or feeling form) we can only guess as to his capabilities.

[Doylo]

doing one armers on jugs is pointless unless you wanna climb at the cascade in ceuse and lock off every move. To be honest i think one armers are pointless. Every man and his dog should be deadhanging long before they're worrying about doin one armers

[Nibile]

i feel deeply offended, not being considered neither a physical freak nor a training fanatic, and ill provide proof of the above deined qualities as soon as possible.

[AndiT]

Anyway, what happened to the excuse that ability to do one-armers is related to body size/shape? I've been using that one for years

Hear, hear!

[unclesomebody]

Every single one of these people can do a one armer.

Uncle, you state this as gospel fact. Only fact is, you don't actually know if this is true.
The only folk I know who can do true controlled one armers from straight arm are either physical freaks like Ru and Paul B or training fanatics like yourself.

but there are plenty of routes with shit foot holds and no possibility of matching,

Be aware on the rock matching one hand atop another is not 'cheating'. Or on your wrist for that matter. I can't envision a move where this wouldn't be possible.

 

doing one armers on jugs is pointless unless you wanna climb at the cascade in ceuse and lock off every move. To be honest i think one armers are pointless. Every man and his dog should be deadhanging long before they're worrying about doin one armers

From the man who does a one armer on the rockattrocity finishing pocket every time he is in the cave.

[Doylo]

From the man who does a one armer on the rockattrocity finishing pocket every time he is in the cave.

a) thats no jug
b) its bloody pointless, still can't do In Hell, In Life , Halfway House, Crucial Times etc.. etc. etc..

[Nigel]

Keith I'm flattered 

Come on, what's all the to-ing and fro-ing about one-armers all about. Its like climbing, whether you can do it well or not, its all about who's having the most fun:



And they're loving it!

By the by Adam, I recently did a one arm from full extension. Does that make me a training fanatic? It'd go well with my flawless technique...