[ferret]

I agree, unfortunatley we're talking about long traversey power-stamina problems, not grit highballs.

the height of the crux of west side story is about average for many problems, especially in the US or font

[GCW]

While we're on the subject of Malc, he did True North (8c) at Kilnsey today. He made it look piss, there must be something to this bouldering business.

There must be something to diet and training too.  But Malc does come from a sport back-ground too.
Well done Stu!!

[north_country_boy]

take one hand off for 5 seconds every few moves to make a clip, makes a massive difference

granted but, if Malc reclimbed pilgrimage with a rope making fake clips wud it then be 9a?
               ,  r people who skip clips therefor cheating?
               , r routes with less clips then easier, does grading reflect this?

I seem to remember Buoux 8c mentioning, that after skipping a clip & taking huge lobs off Evolution resulting in near ground falls.... that if you have time/energy to clip all the bolts, the route may be too easy for you/you could climb much harder!?

[SA Chris]

Meanwhile, up in Scotland, Dave Macleod does his Anvil project at 8c+, proving it is possible to do (almost) everything.

Info here, but will put in a seperate thread http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/05/metalcore.html