[JohnM]

This excludes the high break and the drop down move into BOTR which you would add some.  Not sure about the overall grade for the end bit.  BOTR is tough but you get a good rest in the corner.

[Serpico]

If you start dwelling on the difficulty of the individual sections you'll go mad trying to get it all to add up to 8b+, Ste Mac reckoned that it was all UK5c with  a couple of 6a moves.
I tried to get as many people's opinions as possible on the links; everyone seems to agree on 8a+ from the start to the high break, Bend to the end is 7b+/7c, and the high break on it's own is about 6c, so adding in the high break it'd be 8a+ into a 7c. In practice though because you don't get much of a rest before the corner it's more like 8b to a hands-off bridge rest into a 7a+ to finish, which sounds even more unlikely, but people have still fallen off the final V2 traverse.
Almost ungradeable.

[Probes]

Is it not V11?

[Nike Air]

all i know is its way easier than Cry Freedom!!!!

[Probes]

all i know is its way easier than Cry Freedom!!!!

its always a question of weight verses go go gadget arms!?

[abarro81]

Looking at the wiki, do people really think that the full traverse is an 8a+ into a 7b+?

I don't. From start of high break to the end is way harder than 7b+. (For reference, I thought the hard part of doing the full trav was doing Bend when you're pumped.)

Bend to the end is 7b+/7c, and the high break on it's own is about 6c, so adding in the high break it'd be 8a+ into a 7c.

IMO anyone who thinks that Bend to the end is 7b+ needs to learn to climb upwards, learn to climb with a rope on, or actually go and climb some 7b+s and 7cs. Low life on it's own would be 7b+ if it went upwards. I'd say High break + Bend + Low life + end pottering = 7c+/8aish. Or maybe I need to learn to traverse?

In practice though because you don't get much of a rest before the corner it's more like 8b to a hands-off bridge rest into a 7a+ to finish

Do you really mean that you think low life plus the bit after it is F7a+? I refer you to my earlier comment. But that is a better way to break it down - breaking it at the start of the high break doesn't really work, since (I found) the better rest points are a bit before the high break, and at the end of the high break.

[Serpico]

IMO anyone who thinks that Bend to the end is 7b+ needs to learn to climb upwards, learn to climb with a rope on, or actually go and climb some 7b+s and 7cs. Low life on it's own would be 7b+ if it went upwards. I'd say High break + Bend + Low life + end pottering = 7c+/8aish. Or maybe I need to learn to traverse?

I've done plenty of 7b+'s and 7c's thanks, all them were upwards, and I used a rope on all of them. Low life is 7b+ on it's own, but the full traverse doesn't finish along Low Life - it finishes along Ascent and Descent of Man, which are given V2 and V1 respectively, but which I think are probably a bit harder, and collectively worth Fr7a+.

[abarro81]

Oops. I just did what the guy on the video on vimeo did. Guess it doesn't really matter anyway given the no-hander (I couldn't get no-hands bridged but did manage to sit, facing rightwards on the low ledge on the right of the corner with a toe hook to keep me in which gave no hands).

I guess actually thinking about it stuff like Wild in Me is 7c and a harder boulder than something like Bend, so maybe Bend to the end is 7c.. I just always think of longer stuff when I think route grades, and long things almost always feel easier to me! So I take it back. It's 6 7b+s back to back, plus whatever you do after the final corner. You're right, it doesn't sound like it should add up to more than about 8a!

P.S. Reading the bit of my post you quoted I sound like a right dick. 

[Serpico]

Oops. I just did what the guy on the video on vimeo did. Guess it doesn't really matter anyway given the no-hander (I couldn't get no-hands bridged but did manage to sit, facing rightwards on the low ledge on the right of the corner with a toe hook to keep me in which gave no hands).

You can sit down facing L or R, but I've been trying it just using the bridge rest (which is better than it used to be) just because that ledge/niche has only appeared in the last few years, there used to be a large block occupying that niche, and I'm keen to do it in the spirit of the original ascent, which is pretty pointless really as it's not an eliminate, but it's a history thing...
Was that you I met on Saturday? Don't you live in Sheffield? Much respect for making the pilgrimage to try it if so.

[Probes]

Id say 8b+ to the corner, anyone who blows it after the corner deserves a good clip round the ear. 8a+/b to the end of the top break defo, then a V6 boulder problem. Sounds familar that to me, 8a+/b into a V6/7 boulder problem... cry freedom?

[Serpico]

Id say 8b+ to the corner, anyone who blows it after the corner deserves a good clip round the ear.

<cough>TPM</cough>

[Probes]

 

[abarro81]

Was that you I met on Saturday? Don't you live in Sheffield? Much respect for making the pilgrimage to try it if so.

Did you arrive just as I was leaving (and just as it was starting to rain)? If so then yeah, that was me. I like stupid things like traversing so a bit of a drive doesn't bother me! Plus I'm going to France again in a couple of weeks to try a 60m route so need to do stamina training... (or at least I have a passable excuse to keep doing stamina stuff for a bit longer instead of short things!)

[Ru]

Except that the 60m route in france doesn't have a single flatty on it. I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.

Falling off after the corner is better than stepping off at the corner and thinking you'd done the full traverse for 10 years...


Going there tonight, anyone know what the weather is like over there?

[Serpico]

Raining lightly in Horwich.
Preston Webcam:

[Serpico]

These are useful for a weather view;
http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras/
Looks like rain Preston way.

[abarro81]

I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.

Can I put that on my scorecard?

[Ru]

Really good today despite the rain. Some seepage on the sit starts to fertile delta etc.

[Nike Air]

still dry, anyone know?
thx

[Probes]

Except that the 60m route in france doesn't have a single flatty on it. I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.

Falling off after the corner is better than stepping off at the corner and thinking you'd done the full traverse for 10 years...


Going there tonight, anyone know what the weather is like over there?

Ill second that, Longridge training does little good unless your goal is longridge.
Does that mean you've not done it then after all these years Ru? 

[Three Nine]

Anyone had a look recently?

[GCW]

It's been torrential for a week, I wouldn't hold out too much hope.

[Dhanny]

chances of it being dry this afternoon...? cheers

[kingholmesy]

Anyone been in the last day or so and/or like to gues what it'll be like tomorrow morning?

[wintermute]

I went down this morning, lots of it was dry but the odd hold was seeping. Was a lot of drips coming off the top though. Not been down before so can't make any prediction on what it'll be like tomorrow though I'm afraid