Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report (Read 224105 times)

GCW · March 11, 2009, 07:37:33 pm

Prety crap today. Loads of seepage, and everything was grease central.
Maybe another couple of dry days will see it right.

Probes · March 12, 2009, 02:52:14 pm

Hey Guys n Gals, can i make a suggestion that if anybody fancies it, take some grass seeds wit you if you go to longridge n spread them around abit. I think it ud do the worl dof good, n help it recover, it looks like its nearly there but i think it'll suffer when it gets hammered this yr.

GCW · March 12, 2009, 04:09:19 pm

1. It rained last night, so I'd bet it's still gopping.
2. Paul, that's a great idea.

Adam Lincoln · March 12, 2009, 04:35:20 pm

Quote from: Probes on March 12, 2009, 02:52:14 pm

grass seeds

Or grass seeds!?

Probes · March 13, 2009, 11:35:21 am

Damn you've seen my ploy. BMC news flash... Strange breed of wild bush found at longridge!

AdamD · March 23, 2009, 12:15:05 pm

Hi guys, i went down on saturday and most stuff was dry slightly damp in some areas (vickers eliminate) but besides that most of the place was good to climb on.

Adam Lincoln · March 23, 2009, 12:17:43 pm

Will probably be mostly wet after all the rain last night and heavy wind blowing in onto crag.
Sunny now though so with the wind might dry for tomorrow eve.

andyheb · March 28, 2009, 05:56:17 pm

anyone been today or yesterday? Is it seeping? would it be dry tomorrow?

GCW · March 28, 2009, 07:47:06 pm

Not been, but it has been a bit showery today so maybe not.
If it's wet you could always pop to Brownstones and do Pigswill properly

andyheb · March 28, 2009, 08:12:07 pm

?

Quote from: GCW on March 28, 2009, 07:47:06 pm

Not been, but it has been a bit showery today so maybe not.
If it's wet you could always pop to Brownstones and do Pigswill properly

Had a course in manchester on wednesday popped in on the way back and did it from sitting. Very nice. Is the big ledge in for your left foot?

GCW · March 28, 2009, 08:16:52 pm

Quote from: andyheb on March 28, 2009, 08:12:07 pm

Is the big ledge in for your left foot?

No.

andyheb · March 28, 2009, 08:20:46 pm

Quote from: GCW on March 28, 2009, 08:16:52 pm

Quote from: andyheb on March 28, 2009, 08:12:07 pm
Is the big ledge in for your left foot?

No.

i'll have to have a look at your toppo then and sort it all out. I was checking out conditions for a mate who's intenet is down. I'm off taking kids of D of e training tomorrow. Harsh no climbing for me! but i managed bad moon rising today up at thorn. Fucking amazing. Took me four sessions though! you get out?

AdamD · April 18, 2009, 07:03:55 pm

Well the crag was bone dry today pretty much everywhere, and not that busy $:-\$
I'm thinking of heading down tomorrow as well if it doesnt rain

Oh if anyone knows the acutally holds for delta force that would be a big help, i can get up to the hold the guys looking at in the photo, then used 2 different ways to go to the pocket, but not sure which is right!? $:-\$

r-man · April 21, 2009, 01:48:09 am

Finally got back to Longridge the other week. What a nice bit of rock. (Almost as good as Brownstones.) Been years since I last went, and it's great to see flat grass landings everywhere. Brilliant work BMC!

Just been reading through this thread, thought I'd add some queries and opinions...

Big Marine is never 7b! Fantastic though.

What's the consensus on In Excess SDS? 7b+ felt reasonable to me, maybe soft 7c. I imagine the lh sloper is quite conditions dependant. (I have to admit I greased off the finishing V3 and decided that was good enough for the tourist tick

)

Is this right: on Delta Force, you get to the large pocket, shuffle right to get lh in pocket, do a long move to a jug, then shuffle right and do a gaston move to a jug? Seems like a wandering route up the wall, so wasn't sure...

Ru · April 21, 2009, 08:52:30 am

I gave In Excess SS 7b+ when I did it (going left hand pinchy sloper, rt hand crimp, lft hand fat pinch, rt hand jug).

Delta Force goes as you describe, although I can't remember whether you take the gaston with your right as a layaway on Fertile Delta. I think CJD did the start of DF some hard and slightly blinkered way, so it's actually not that hard.

Adam Lincoln · April 21, 2009, 09:18:19 am

I crossed though from a crimp so i had my left hand in pocket on delta force. Hard V7 seems about right.

Interesting you think 7b for big marine. Did you do the jump start, or could you reach?

r-man · April 21, 2009, 10:25:52 am

Quote from: Ru on April 21, 2009, 08:52:30 am

I gave In Excess SS 7b+ when I did it (going left hand pinchy sloper, rt hand crimp, lft hand fat pinch, rt hand jug).

Delta Force goes as you describe, although I can't remember whether you take the gaston with your right as a layaway on Fertile Delta. I think CJD did the start of DF some hard and slightly blinkered way, so it's actually not that hard.

Yeah, I used the same sequence on In Excess SS. I had your description printed out to avoid confusion. The move off the pinchy sloper was quite frustrating - I bet with cold temps this would feel a lot more secure. The wide pinch higher up is a lovely hold.

On Fertile Delta it's far easier to layaway and finish leftwards than to gaston, so I was wondering if you had to do it the hard way for Delta Force?

Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 21, 2009, 09:18:19 am

I crossed though from a crimp so i had my left hand in pocket on delta force. Hard V7 seems about right.

Interesting you think 7b for big marine. Did you do the jump start, or could you reach?

Hard V7 for Delta Force? So you don't think the sitter adds much to Fertile Delta? Or do you think Fertile Delta is easier than V7?

On Big Marine, I had to jump. It's a pretty big hold to jump for though - I can't imagine that adding a grade. Compare this problem to limestone stuff at a similiar angle and there's no chance it's 7b. Rattle and Hump, Kudos, both harder surely.

Adam Lincoln · April 21, 2009, 10:46:13 am

@ R-Man.
It feels easier than Big Marine. For me anyway.

Did you try anything else. Colon Power, Pot Of Gold, etc etc?

r-man · April 21, 2009, 10:49:24 am

Nope, didn't try anything else. Colon Power looks great though, keen to try it next time.

Ru · April 21, 2009, 11:36:23 am

I'm probably going this afternoon (late afternoon) on the way home from Blackpool, if anyone's about.

Adam Lincoln · April 21, 2009, 02:00:45 pm

Quote from: Ru on April 21, 2009, 11:36:23 am

I'm probably going this afternoon (late afternoon) on the way home from Blackpool, if anyone's about.

Clouds looking a bit ominous and could well rain. But its on your way home so worth a look. Quite windy so could be good if rain holds off.

saltbeef · April 21, 2009, 06:27:22 pm

I've got a course in bolton (!) on thursday so will be heading that way on thursday late on...

saltbeef · April 22, 2009, 09:54:27 pm

did you get to longridge ru? anyone out tomorra?

GCW · April 22, 2009, 10:02:10 pm

I may be there in the evening, although if I finish work at a decent time I've got unfinished business elsewhere.

Ru · April 22, 2009, 10:26:44 pm

I got there tues evening. Good nick, not perfect, but good. Totally dry. Will try and get there tomorrow night if poss, but depends somewhat on when I get my brief for Friday. What time you heading there Axel?