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Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report (Read 222603 times)

Andy F

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Cheers Squeek. Have Karma

Serpico

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    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Topos

There's a spreadsheet at the bottom of the page that has most of the recent additions on.

Adam Lincoln

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Topo here: http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm

Nice one gaz on the traverse, how far did he get right to left?

To where you have an awkward drop down from high crimps going left to right. He hadn't worked it that way so good effort.

On a side note that top break before bend is totally clean and dry. Get to it people.....

Ru

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Is it thought to be harder or easier R-L than L-R? I did it L-R a few years back and my getting-fit-again project is R-L. I'm sure I saw Carson doing it L-R-L-R yonks ago, but it might just have been L-R-L.



Serpico

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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.

Stu Littlefair

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Isn't this 8c+? Has Ru climbed 8c+ and kept it from his nearest and dearest.

Ru

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No, and no. Panic not.

It's only 8c+ if you avoid the top break.

Stu Littlefair

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ah.

I knew 8c+ came into it somewhere. Jolly good. Carry on everybody

squeek

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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.

A few of us were talking about this the other day and Vickers said that he thought R-L was harder (although i don't think he finds anything about that traverse hard).

Adam Lincoln

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I did it L-R a few years back

You kept that quiet  ;)

So, how many ascents has it had?

Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry

Any more?

Serpico

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Kenyon and Leach?

Serpico

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...and Mitchell?

Adam Lincoln

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So,

Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?

? = Maybe's

GCW

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When did Sean do it?

andy_e

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About a year ago now, I think...

Adam Lincoln

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When did Sean do it?

Though technically he started in the wrong place. To be fair, if you can start where he did and do it your going to be able to do the easy bit he missed out.


AdamD

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Hi guys, Hopefully will be popping down to craig y longridge again tomorow, i was just wondering regarding the vickers v9 eliminate:

I know you go from a sloping ledge, to the side pull, then into the pinchy/crimp thing, but where abouts do you go after that? Is it straight up to the ledge with like a weird sloping jug in it, then the top crimp...?


Thanks guys!

Adam Lincoln

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If you look on the Craig Y Longride wiki, the way i do it in the video is wrong. You basically don't use the good ledge after the hard move. Doesn't make that much difference, but does add a bit of a move.

ps i assume your not Adam Dewhurst?

AdamD

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Erm no im not! I'm Adam Dunderdale.

Ah ok then, i just need to stick that move off the side pull  ;D
I assume its also no large holds for feet?

Thanks.

Adam Lincoln

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Erm no im not! I'm Adam Dunderdale.

Ahh your Andrews E's mate....you were there when Gaz did traverse....

AdamD

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Yeah thats me, i was playing with that uppercut to crimp thing, managed to do it in the end, but still had to top out. But then my arms just gave out and i couldnt even pull off the first move.



Jaspersharpe

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Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?

? = Maybe's

Tony?  :-\

The number of Adams on this site is getting confusing!  :)

Ru

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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.

A few of us were talking about this the other day and Vickers said that he thought R-L was harder (although i don't think he finds anything about that traverse hard).

When you consider it's a 300ft traverse where the hardest moves are probably only 6a, there's unlikely to be much difference in the difficulty whichever way you go I suppose.

IanP

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where the hardest moves are probably only 6a

 :(  I feel even weaker than normal now!

Serpico

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Quote
the hardest moves are probably only 6a,

Stop it, stop it now...

 

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