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Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report (Read 220197 times)

Serpico

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#50 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 03:01:50 pm
I reckon the careful replacement of about half a metre (or even a whole metre) of earth before the grass planting is done would lead to the best of both worlds. Key sds could be left clear, but the landing zone beneath the finishes could be built up.

I thought this was the plan, but i've not seen it since it was levelled, the ground used to rise up as you gained height - the ideal would definitely be to return it to that.
re FD and PG: I always thought FD was worth V7 for that big gaston off the glued edge. I don't remember PG being too hard - just steady away crimping. 6c and 6a UK tech.
The ground's certainly a lot lower now; the original sit down off the pocket looks like a reachy stand-up now.

slackline

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#51 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 03:06:41 pm
I reckon the careful replacement of about half a metre (or even a whole metre) of earth before the grass planting is done would lead to the best of both worlds. Key sds could be left clear, but the landing zone beneath the finishes could be built up.

I thought this was the plan, but i've not seen it since it was levelled, the ground used to rise up as you gained height - the ideal would definitely be to return it to that.

Something like this:lol: ;)

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#52 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 03:44:23 pm
Wow! That looks amazing.

Bonjoy

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#53 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 04:24:51 pm

Oooo, that's better, my eyes have stopped bleeding now  ;)

Nigel

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#54 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 04:53:10 pm

Oooo, that's better, my eyes have stopped bleeding now  ;)

Yeah I couldn't look at that before. Now I can I've got a sudden urge to rush out and buy loads of La Sportiva products, starting with La Sportiva Venoms from a shop display window.

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#55 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 07:31:38 pm
Yup - that's one brand-savvy gent right there . . .     :whistle:




Surprised he hasn't had it tattooed it on the left forarm . . .  To be fair to Chris, as well as being one of Britains' and certainly Wales' biggest ticking boulderers - he also genuinely WANTS to wear La Sportiva more than any other product and held out for such a deal.  At least he's not wearing Red Chilli or some other grotesque abomination 'cos that's where the geld is.

Salut Chris Pist!   A fellow original Gout Clubber and man of his word.


« Last Edit: February 12, 2008, 07:37:41 pm by Houdini »

GCW

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#56 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 12, 2008, 08:33:57 pm
re FD and PG: I always thought FD was worth V7 for that big gaston off the glued edge. I don't remember PG being too hard - just steady away crimping. 6c and 6a UK tech.

Sounds familiar, but it's been years.
I will probably be heading there tomorrow if I get the chance so I'll have a look.
I always thought Fertile Delta a little easier than Big Marine (which I haven't finished... yet), but only cos I could do it :lol:  If that makes sense  :-\

GCW

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#57 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 13, 2008, 08:11:39 pm
Good conditions today, only one or two small areas of seepage.
Porridge Gun felt like 6b/+ today for what it's worth.

c.j.d.

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#58 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 14, 2008, 04:37:15 pm
I had just changed my boots ya know, and they are the only mats I have.  I did need three pads as the landing is obviously far from flat and freindly!  Oh, and its not my chalk bag, I have'nt got one. :)

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#59 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 14, 2008, 11:21:28 pm
Blow me!

I geddit now.

You changed the pink to blue  (which is a traversty!)  and I thought you had photoshopped the La Sportiva patches off of his trousers.  Weird, there aren't any patches on his trousers...  Did you move them too?

Bring back the pink!!



Everyone wears blue.  You Bummers!

Bonjoy

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#60 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 15, 2008, 08:29:02 am
That's not pink, it's flouro magenta. My eye's were bleeding so hard I couldn't see what colour I was changing it to.

Houdini

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#61 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 15, 2008, 11:45:35 am
Ha!

I see it now, but back in the Wales he wears that shit 24/7 and I don't notice it anymore . . .

Jaspersharpe

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#62 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 15, 2008, 11:50:53 am


Nice.  8)

Adam Lincoln

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#63 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 15, 2008, 10:38:03 pm
Worth a sticky yet  :-[

chris

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#64 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 24, 2008, 01:21:39 pm
anyone been there today?

GCW

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#65 Re: Craig Y Longridge Conditions Report
February 24, 2008, 01:28:06 pm
No, but last time I went it was damp and it's rained since.  So I'd bet conditions ain't gonna be great.

Serpico

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How about now? Particularly interested in the traverses, need to build some endurance. What condition is the traverse  from left of the wobble block to the high break after the cave, in?

GCW

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The way it has blasted a gale and rained like crazy over the last couple of days I'd be surprised if anything was in condition.
Which traverse do you mean?  Mr. Skin?
« Last Edit: March 10, 2008, 10:24:18 am by GCW, Reason: Spelling »

Serpico

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It's Mr Skin plus a bit.

GCW

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Into Bend of the Rainbow?  Cool, never tried that.

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Anyone been recently? Any ideas what state it is in?

Ru

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Not bad today, a little damp in places, but the perishing wind was blowing right over the top. Cleaned and did another recently unearthed sitter just to the left of CJD's new problem, up the damp green crap you can see in the very left of the picture of CJD.

It cleaned up ok, and two of the better holds that were made of poorer, damp rock, snapped off as I was trying it, forcing a harder but better sequence up some big slopey pinches.

It starts on two small crimps just above CJD's left foot, (at the top of the shot hole scar), takes a very sloping sloper with a thump catch up and left, a diagonal RH crimp, big fat sidepull pinch LH and a nice move to gain and finish up the V3 thing above. I repeated CJD's problem too - this has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall it's about the same grade, or slightly harder, maybe. Worth doing. I started with both feet high, Cressbook style, to avoid the bottom shale/mud layer.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2008, 05:36:28 pm by Ru »

Ru

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I repeated CJD's problem too - this has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall it's about the same grade, or slightly harder, maybe.

By which I mean the new problem has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall the new problem is about the same grade, or slightly harder.

GCW

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Can you confirm grade, Ru?
Am I to assume your is the SDS to In Excess?

Ru

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Yes, the sitter to In Excess, I forgot the name of the stand up. Grade.. not sure. I've just had a couple of weeks off due to a finger tweak, so I'm not sure how I'm climbing. 7b+??

 

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