[Brian C]

Best Problem in the Peak?
Deliverance? Put down the crack pipe and stop looking at magazines from the 1990s. Odd and totally dated.
West Side Story? That crimp is minging and the 'stop at the jug or top it out' option ruins it's purity. Not continuous enough.
Brad Pitt? Maybe, it looks nice, as does Sweet Thing.
My vote would go with Spare Rib at Stanton. Stunning, great movement, continuous, a bit engaging, requires sneaky beta, full-body technique and serious concentration. You can't fault it.

[dave]

WSS is one of the best - stop complaining about the crimp, you don't have to use it, and there is no option about jumping off at the break, the problem goes to the top.

I've not done spare rib but been on it in the warm, its good but not that great, the sloping muddy landing lets is down a bit and the rock isn't as nice as WSS.

I've probably said this before but other great problems are jerry's arete (crat), tierdrop, deliverance, jason's undercling, NTBTA you can't go wrong with these.

[Bubba]

What's "Sweet Thing" ?

Sorry, too lazy to search...

[dave]

its that thing near kaluza klein at RHS. Don't think its classic status, but hard.

[Scouse D]

Sweet Thing looks good but friends who've been on it/done it done rate it as super classic. Spare Rib is ok but just ain't as nice to climb on as wss.
For me the nicest problem in the peak is The Nose at b'bage west. I just love climbing it.

[dobbin]

Jerry's arete at Cratcliffe is quality.

Noone's mentioned NTBTA - thats a beautiful problem, Brad Pitt is a neo classic (!) but I think in terms of quality and enjoyment of line - crescent arete. Marvellous.

[dave]

Noone's mentioned NTBTA

.....apart from me  :wink:

[dobbin]

Shamone Muthafucka!

[Omega]

anything on the eagle stone - what a summer time treat that is!

[Johnny Brown]

crescent arete is best on'tother side.
NTBTA is good but doesn't really capture the essence of bouldering.

For me its gotta be Careless Torque ...

Powerful, technical and bold.

And unarguably the best line by a mile.

[dave]

99.99999999999% of us arne't in a position to say how good the climbing is on CT except the first move is nice. Have you done it, and if not, why, given you live at stanage :wink: ?

[Johnny Brown]

I've done the start, once. :wink: Best move I've ever done

I then set off laybacking up the arete, somewhat excited, without even chalking up. Be warned the high crimp is shit.

By the way, does anyone know which fuckwit(s) have been top-roping this in June? Tick-marks 'n all.  :x

[dave]

I've got hanging footless of the bottom of the arete, LH pinching arete, RH on a shit slopey dish. What do you do from there, just like thrutch upwards?

[Johnny Brown]

you've got the right idea...

as bruce said:

'Don't think.........feeeeeel'

[dobbin]

whats wrong with top rope practicing it?

[fatboySlimfast]

wouldnt be suprised if it were some johnny foreigner, lots of non locals trying to do silly stuff in incredible heat,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
saw an italian at Burbage south rugged up like it were winter, was talking to someone who had been in italy the week before and said it was 38deg and sweaty so prob feels like winter!!! He had a guy filming him with a reet exspensive camera so no doubt he was some hotshot........
bet he has been impressed with this lurvely summer weather were having

[Johnny Brown]

Had the plantation to myself again last night.....
CT is still excessively chalked, though only the start now.

"whats wrong with top-roping it"???

A top-rope is tantamount to rape on a line of this quality.
If you've any ability, keep at it and wait until you're good enough.
If you've not, kicking all the pebbles off dangling on a rope, before pronouncing it impossible, is not worthwhile for anyone.

Give it 10 years and top-roping on grit will be regarded like wire brushing.
Get ahead and give it up now.

[dave]

I agree with the Maniac In Black on this one.

What i don't get is when Ron first did it (ground up?) it was given E6, then Malc does it with mats after toproping and gives it font 8a. But if its apparently only a boulder problem, then why is it necessaryto toprope it? In my mind if a toprope is deemed necessary then it must be touching on a route.

[Bubba]

And John Dunne top roped it too.

One of those lines that is a route if done old skool style, and a highball if done noo skool with pads, etc ?

[Percy B]

Before he did the first ascent of Careless Torque, Big Ron used to practise the fall from the top moves by jumping off NTBTA from increasing heights! Having done the top section on a rope years ago, I can only imagine what a fall from the top would do to you - and that top section is HARD..at least Font 7b+ once you've done the crux, with the hardest move at the top if you aren't massively tall. Anybody who can do the bottom bulge should have the prerequisite talent and courage to push on for the top - this section should seem piss easy compared to the bottom, shouldn't it?!?!

[dobbin]

Give it 10 years and top-roping on grit will be regarded like wire brushing. Get ahead and give it up now.

I haven't seen my harness in years so I'm ahead of the game on this one (for once), were i good enough to get beyond the starting position however I might feel different.

And John Dunne top roped it too.

Good to see your sense of humour hasn't been tarnished by Spanish  Microdonkey

[Johnny Brown]

You don't need to get rid of the harness - just make sure the rope hangs from you, not you from the rope.

As for Dunne's ascent, I heard Andy Jack saw him do it :wink:

[Bubba]

And John Dunne top roped it too.

Good to see your sense of humour hasn't been tarnished by Spanish  Microdonkey

I'm a believer in big JD - I reckon if he said he did it then I reckon he prolly did.

MicroDonkey is the word - still, better than being in Nottingham.

[dave]

I belive JD anall - to be honest I've got no reason not to.

[dobbin]

I just don't know either way, I live in Sheffield though so its my place to scorn and doubt his achievements.

'JD bought me a pint the other day'
'Are you sure? was it really him? how do you know? I bet it was Andy Jack'