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Euro summer venues (Read 6349 times)

Bonjoy

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Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 09:12:33 am
 Not long now till the big trip  ;D. Still got a million and one things to sort out for it. One thing I could do with some help on is suggestions for crag destinations in the late July to early Sept period. Have never been to Ceuse so this is on the list, but don't know of many other places for summer in Europe except there and Frankenjura. Ideas anyone?? Anyone know what the Pico Du Europe is like in summer?
Cheers

north_country_boy

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#1 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 09:23:52 am
Frankenjura is a great bet for July......Last two years august has been very wet with thunderstorms etc, but hopefully that won't be the case this year.....will probably be there myself mid July to early August.
Ceuse would be an obvious choice, but i'm still yet to go , first time this summer hopefully. Orpierre is good crag to have easier days at if going to Ceuse, as the walk in is short & crag is in shade from 2pm onwards.
Misja Pec & Osp should be good in mid/late september if its not been too hot.
Would be interested to know of other good French crags which will be in the shade for long periods of the day over the summer.....

Where else have you got planned for your trip Bonjoy?

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 11:07:59 am
 Mid-late Sept we are planning on Rodellar area, then Terradets and other Spanish stuff (Baltzola, Basque country ??). Some folk are talking about going to Albaracin in Oct so might go over and join them. Later in the year will be switching to mostly bouldering and plan to check out Swiss areas and the hook up with the usual xmas font trippers.
All rather vague. Have been too pre-occupied with van stuff to give it more thought as yet.

north_country_boy

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#3 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 11:21:59 am
Hows the Van going Bonjoy? Purchasing mine in the next few weeks....

Somebody's Fool

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#4 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 11:23:16 am
How about going Deep Water Soloing when the temperatures in Europe go bananas.  The best summer venues I have ever been to in Europe have been in Dorset.  Swinging about on jugs above the sea.  Can't beat it.

Maybe you can stick Pimp My Ride on a ferry and go to Mallorca.  The soloing there looks well brown.  Looks to me like Cascade at Ceuse but above the Med.

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 12:07:17 pm
Hows the Van going Bonjoy? Purchasing mine in the next few weeks....
So far have ripped out the original floor and internal panneling, given a good clean and treated the odd little rust spot, added an immobilser, installed two Seitz double glazed windows, added a an Omnistor roof-vent/two way fan, installed new floor with insulation underneath and started to insulate walls and roof. How's yours going?

north_country_boy

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#6 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 01:03:40 pm
Buying a Vito Dualiner 110/112CDi in next few weeks/early may. Loads around, but trying to find one with low mileage/right spec/service history and reasonable price.....is a little more tricky...

Will then be carrying out basic conversion.....

BenF

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#7 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 03:53:41 pm
Anyone know what the Pico Du Europe is like in summer?

Not got massive knowledge on the Picos but can tell you that the higher stuff (eg Naranjo de Bulnes) will be hot but certainly climbable and many faces are shaded much of the day (many are not though).  The well developed sport crags to the north are generally lower and have a good mix of shady and less shady aspects, often being in gorges.  I'd say from the little I know that it's an area well worth considering in the summer.  It's beautiful anyway and I'm certainly pretty keen to go back soon.

davej

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#8 Re: Euro summer venues
April 16, 2007, 09:09:12 pm
frankenjura for me for a month in aug just got the new guide psyched!!!! :thumbsup:

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#9 Re: Euro summer venues
April 17, 2007, 12:24:22 pm
Bonjoy

In Summer I am normaly curtailed by fitting family and climbing together in one trip. as you know most of the South of France is hot, and Ceuse fits that. For the last four Summers I have successfully climbed at Actinidias in the Ardeche, which is a shady overhanging crag with lots of 8's and some easier things also. it is with out doubt one of the best Summer venues in the South and is right next to a river beach which provides most non climbing entertainment. I usually climb late pm into evenings.
The big cave near the Pont D'arc is also shady and good but havenet climbed there as I the approach is a bit tricky for kids (which you wont have to worry about).
Two or Three summers ago Grimper did a Climbing in France in the Summer special which I have and you are welcome to borrow if I see you around. I'll stick it in the back of my car. re frankenjura it sounds great but Keith was washed out last year whilst we climbed uninterupted in the Ardeche. Worth thinking about

Simon

Bonjoy

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#10 Re: Euro summer venues
April 17, 2007, 12:34:48 pm
 Cheers Simon. Have always fancied looking around the Ardeche, as much for the wildlife and scenery as for the climbing

mark

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#11 Re: Euro summer venues
April 17, 2007, 01:18:11 pm
How about St Antonin? I went there a few years ago in the middle of the summer and had a great time. Most of the crags are north-facing, on the south rim of a beautiful valley. Hundreds of routes up to 9a on perfect limestone. Very British style of climbing but without the loose holds.

Teaboy

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#12 Re: Euro summer venues
April 17, 2007, 10:56:22 pm
St Leger has a wall that is permanently in shade, it has about 30 routes 6c+ to 8a, its at about 500m above sea level. I hear Gorge de Loup is a summer venue but know nothing about it.

I wouldn't recommend Osp or Mija Pec as its a complete sun trap.

cofe

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#13 Re: Euro summer venues
April 17, 2007, 11:02:39 pm
my mum and dad like the picos in the summer. they don't climb mind, but they do like the picos.

TobyD

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#14 Re: Euro summer venues
April 18, 2007, 01:21:40 pm
the Chinese wall, near the Austrian / German border has some quality steep pockety limestone in a beautiful high alpine valley.

Schleierwasserfall is supposed to be good too.

The Val de Durance has some good things, limestone, quartzite and granite sport, lots of variety and not too hot. Not masses of harder things, but definitely some.

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#15 Re: Euro summer venues
April 18, 2007, 01:39:26 pm
Corniceman - That Ardeche crag sounds interesting, I might be heading down this way with wife and kids this summer. Are there any shady bouldering crags in this area?

Bonjoy - the Picos is well worth going to (you might even meet Cofe's mam and dad). Lots of options in or out of the mountains. You really should go and do a route on the Naranja de Bulnes - an amazing place.

 

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