[(woz)]

I went to have a look at the new(ish) Neil Travers problems here today. Although the wall was still quite damp, some of the bouldering was dry enough. I think you would struggle to do the routes though. Here is a little topo of the existing lines for anyone who missed the writeup in the mags:


Man Of Steel: Climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack
Swing Time: Same start, then out right to sidepull jug, then back left to same finish
It's A Traversty: Swing time into Neil's Wall
Neils Wall: Opposing sidepulls to large sidepull, then up to finish matched on the sloping ledge.
Groove: Nice little groove to jug

As mentioned before there are numerous eliminates to do further left, mostly finishing on the jug ledge of beginners wall.

The 8a+ SS was wet, as was Man of Steel. Makes a nice change from the usual Limey suspects.

Pics on WildCountry:http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Clogg/RedChili/NeilTravers/

[Ru]

I popped up there today too, but concluded that the bouldering was still too wet to get anything done so left it. Was I wrong?

[(woz)]

On Swing Time all the holds were dry except the second crimp that you have to match. I managed to temporarily sort this out with towels and chalk. Neil's wall was dry except for the sidepull, so I made a ladder (read: log leaning against the crag) and again towels and chalk sorted it out.
The rest of neil's problems were too wet, but the groove to the right, and short eliminates the the left were dry.

[steven82]

Whereabouts is this? i think i found it but not too sure.
Also does anyone have any info on seans roof where does the line go and is there anythin else in there as there looks like potential for multiple lines when it dries out

[Johnny Brown]

So how high is that blue line in the photo, it look about 6 foot?

[(woz)]

Whereabouts is this? i think i found it but not too sure.

Blackwell dale - the B6049 which comes down off the A6 Buxton road. There is a layby on the right (as you go downhill) with a short, steep path up to the rock.

Also does anyone have any info on seans roof where does the line go and is there anythin else in there as there looks like potential for multiple lines when it dries out

Sean's roof? Don't know what you mean.

Re JB: I thought that as I was adding the lines. In fact, you can just reach the two chalky holds below the wet patch from the ground, and your feet are on the starting holds when at the finishing ledge.

[steven82]

seans roof is slightly back up the hill from begginners wall i think its has its own layby under it

[(woz)]

ah, I know the one. Can't help with your questions though i'm afraid.

[Paul B]

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=381

is this any help? 

[steven82]

it helps a little but there are multiple places to start and it could defo go from a sitter

[steven82]

Was looking at neil travers blog on the wild country web site and on the first ascents he has got two probs at crag X Spiderman and in bulk does anyone know where these go especially spiderman as i think 8a+ is a tad out my grade range

[(woz)]

All the problems are now dry and climbable (beginners wall that is)
I can't help with the other Travers problems - maybe someone on here could pm me his email address?

[steven82]

wot holds do u start on for swing time and man of steel?

[(woz)]

The big, polished chalky jug - just where the lines start on the topo.

[Scouse D]

Met Woz there today.Had a good session and can recommend all the problems there.

[Andy Harris]

One of Neils problems starts as for the Hulk (LH pinch, RH on broken superman hold) left foot on and do a huge pull all the way to the high sloper with your RH (no intermedates) and finish as for superman.

There is another prob (think Jon W did it). Start as for Superman (hanging, to sidepull with left (maybe impossible now) big fling with right to start hold on Moffatrocity and direct up from here on some slopes.

Neil did do a hard footless probem around here but can't remember details.

Jerico also goes footless at  about 7c+/8a) but no one ever did the full Moffatrocity link footless.

[steven82]

cheers andy, Has anyone done jericho road reversing moffatrocity and fin up pink indians? if so wot sort of grade? Do you know anything about seans roof is that the only line in there? Where does it start?

[Paul B]

I believe that has been done, haven't a clue about the grade.

Wouldn't the end of moffatrocity footless be pretty grim dragging yourself against the rock?

[dave]

been here tonite and done swing time and man of steel, and fell off trying to match the "ledge" on traversty. all decent problems, felt like gifts at 7b and 7c though. felt more like 7a, 7b and 7b/+ respectively. but obviously reach/conditions etc play a part. good finds, can't believe i've been here loads of times before and never saw the potential! 

[(woz)]

fell off trying to match the "ledge" on traversty.

Amen to that. There is a half decent crimp right in the middle that helps slightly, but I still had to slap in to match.

[(woz)]

As far as the grades go, I would say: Swing time - 7a+, Man of Steel - 7b, Traversty - 7c, Neil's Wall - 7c, Neil's Wall SS 7c+/8a.

Full respect to Neil for developing, and I've seen pictures of his foot sequence on Neil's wall and it looks much harder than the way I did it.

[cofe]

been and checked this lot out this avo. all good probs. banksy cooked neil's wall SS quicksmart. the man is the bouldering equivalent of a fan oven.

[saltbeef]

any chance of the topo being reposted? it seems to have become a cross.

[(woz)]

and the descripions:

Man Of Steel 7b: Climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack
Swing Time 7a+: Same start, then out right to sidepull jug, then back left to same finish
It's A Traversty 7c: Swing time into Neil's Wall
Neils Wall 7c (SS 7c+?): Opposing sidepulls to large sidepull, then up to finish matched on the sloping ledge.
Groove 6b: Nice little groove to jug

Recreational violence is over to the left hand side of the buttress

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice one. Must take a look.  Is that what the grades have settled at after better beta being found then? Obviously my next question will be regarding what the beta is as it's a big jump from the SS being 8A+ to 7C+.