[carames]

When training on a finger board is it better to do pull ups or just hang from your fingers? 

[GCW]

This has been asked before- search UKB, 8a.nu plus others.
Pull-ups are generally better.

[carames]

I´ve searched for 8a.nu and not found anything related...

[Richie Crouch]

Try http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml article:

The above link should hopefully be of use to you. I have been using an adapted version of the intermediate 10 minute one for the last 2 weeks having never done any fingerboard specifics before and am starting to feel small but noticeable gains already. I intend to step it up in maybe another 2 weeks increasing the intensity of exercises, reps of pulls/drops/negs/ and time of hangs...etc

Good luck with the training 

[a dense loner]

why GCW has said that i have no idea. if i was a betting man i'd say there was a pretty good reason they're called deadhangs

[GCW]

why GCW has said that i have no idea.

Because he'd originally posted in 2 topics.  I answered one with "pull-ups" and the other with "deadhangs" just to maintain my aura of irritation.  One thread (the more serious answer) was then pulled.  Hope that makes sense Dense.
As Dense says, it is contact strength that boards train well.  You can throw in pull ups and bent-arm hangs etc etc to add variety.

[GCW]

Although looking at the 8a advanced routines I'm not sure I'd do 90 second hangs.  Seems a bit long and I personally prefer adding weights to do less times than that.  Even the numerous 25 second hangs seem a bit OTT.

[saltbeef]

As Dense says, it is contact strength that boards train well.  You can throw in pull ups and bent-arm hangs etc etc to add variety.

no.
deadhangs train static strength(and your boredom tghreshold). campusing trains contact strength.

[GCW]

no.
deadhangs train static strength(and your boredom tghreshold). campusing trains contact strength.

Contact strength= finger strength
Yes, campusing trains contact strength but so does doing short (esp weighted) hangs on a board.  Campusing adds a dynamic aspect and trains explosive power and the Point.  Or have I missed something here?
Static strength means you are training your forearms ie finger strength not including pulling up (which is proximal to the elbow).  The exception is weighted finger curls which is a dynamic finger-strength exercise, but this still involves contact strength.
It's not often I get a hold and pull it with my fingers- I usually crimp it and use upper arm muscles to pull.

[Serpico]

I take contact strength to mean rate of force development. The gains associated with campussing I'd class as: Rate of force development, how quick you can recruit maximally. Increased recruitment, how many motor units you can recruit. And greater synchronization of motor recruitment, more motor units firing at the same time.

[GCW]

OK.  To quote Gresham

The type of static strength required by the fingers in climbing is known more correctly as isometric strength. This is where the muscles and tendons hold their appropriate joints and levers in a locked position - Iso meaning ’same’ or ’one’ and metric meaning ’length’. Here, the force expressed by the climber is equal to the negative force of their body mass under gravity. In more advanced training speak, climbers sometimes differentiate between the type of finger strength which is required to latch a hold at speed during a dyno or deadpoint move (namely contact strength), and secondly the strength which is needed to actually use or hang  the hold.

This is a modern subdivision.  Back in the day, finger= contact.

God I sound old before me time.  Ahem:

hen pulled.  Hope that makes sense Dense.
As Dense says, it is finger strength that boards train well.

[account_inactive]

As Serpico says, contact strength is all about recruitment.  In the case of bouldering/campus this is maximal recruitment, not a useful thing if you are a route climber.

Isometric exercise involves contraction against an immovable resistance. Strength is increased at the specific angle of exertion with up to 20% overflow surrounding joint angles.

[Jim]

too much science for me here.
Consider yourselves BOFFINS

[Monolith]

It's not often I get a hold and pull it with my fingers- I usually crimp it and use upper arm muscles to pull.

Whereas I do get a hold and pull it with my fingers. It's only taken me about 10 years until recently to realise that this isn't the way forward. The way forward is getting some biceps and triceps to be proud of 

[GCW]

The way forward is getting some biceps and triceps to be proud of 

Don't forget Brachialis and Brachioradialis.  Just as important depending on arm positions.

[Nibile]

in the last five weeks, trying to increase my power/number of moves ratio, the guru set some nice routines involving three or four different exercises to be performed with no pause.
i started the program very confident and soon realized its very hard if you work at the limit. i had been doing the likes of:
- 90° one arm lockoff on edge
- other arm
- two max pullups on edge (two hands)
- max distance at campusboard (leading with both hands)
4 times, 6 mins rest.

you can unleash both your fantasy and your inner beast.