[Bubba]

So, what did you all get up to?

As it was mingingly hot Me, Fatboy and Mrs Fatboy decided to abandon the sweaty grit and head out of the Peak for a change.

We thought we'd go visit a bit of South Lakes Limestone so trudged up the M6 Fairy Steps to do some ticking.

I was very pleasantly surprised. We didn't have time to explore the whole place, and the little bit of the lower tier we saw looked a bit mucky, but the upper tier was great. The area to the right of the steps was superb quality limestone with nice, easy but technical problems. It was great to climb on good limestone for the first time in ages. The area to the left of the steps was nice too, but it was getting a bit dark and sweaty by the time we got over there.

Amazingly, for such a nice place, and for a crag that has the hardest problem in the UK, we only saw one other boulderer all day.

Needless to say, Walk Away sit-start looks impossibly hard - a series of appalling holds up a more or less vertical wall. Pretty much unclimbable in my book - respect to the Gaskins.

I'm pretty sure they filmed "Blair Witch" in those woods too.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Went up to Burbage N and Higgar Tor yesterday - it was good day out.

Did "The File", "Rat's Tail", "Knight's Move" & "Long Tall Sally" and I can safely say my hand is fucked after doing the File!!  :shock:

[dave]

I embraced the sweaty grit and went to Birchen (yes you heard me right, we had some non-climbing beginners with us). It was alright realy, soloed loads of classic severes that get VS in the rockfax comicbook, soloed orpheus wall etc. Tooled about on top boulders, theres a nice easy eliminate dyno here (like in this photo, only you have to hang it). Got proper sunburnt though.

[dobbin]

Had a cool day on Saturday with Big Ed and tall Chris, started off at cragX, found a new sequence on Sean's, got a bit further up the hulk and greased off the pinch. Quick refreshment stop at Litton on the way out and on to Stoney. Nearly got killed by a maniac shunt practicing Minus Ten at Minus Ten before decamping to the roof of Tom. Decided I have cheated on Pete's powerpull when I did it as it doesn't feel hard enough for v10/11, and did some other stuff too. Very bruised tips stopped me on Sunday and thats it...

[Adam Lincoln]

So, what did you all get up to?

As it was mingingly hot Me, Fatboy and Mrs Fatboy decided to abandon the sweaty grit and head out of the Peak for a change.

We thought we'd go visit a bit of South Lakes Limestone so trudged up the M6 Fairy Steps to do some ticking.

I was very pleasantly surprised. We didn't have time to explore the whole place, and the little bit of the lower tier we saw looked a bit mucky, but the upper tier was great. The area to the right of the steps was superb quality limestone with nice, easy but technical problems. It was great to climb on good limestone for the first time in ages. The area to the left of the steps was nice too, but it was getting a bit dark and sweaty by the time we got over there.

Amazingly, for such a nice place, and for a crag that has the hardest problem in the UK, we only saw one other boulderer all day.

Needless to say, Walk Away sit-start looks impossibly hard - a series of appalling holds up a more or less vertical wall. Pretty much unclimbable in my book - respect to the Gaskins.

I'm pretty sure they filmed "Blair Witch" in those woods too.

Tis very BW esque! ?We where up there last Sunday, or was it Saturday...

[Bubba]

What's the lower tier like? The bit we saw was pretty mucky, but didn't fully explore away from the steps.

[Adam Lincoln]

What's the lower tier like? The bit we saw was pretty mucky, but didn't fully explore away from the steps.

Err, only bit on lower tier i know are the V11's and V12 combos. Aeons etc etc. Very clean at the moment...

Though thinking about it, hunting out the trick would be worthiwhile, very good.

[Adam Lincoln]

BTW Bubba, should have those clips tonight or tomorrow. How do you want them, on CD?

Have clips of

Porth Ysgo
Fast Cars
Truth
TISM
TISM Sit
Popcorn Party
Porth Ysgo Crack

Plus loads of V9's/10's and 11's from Woodwell to wet everyones appetites!

[Bubba]

BTW Bubba, should have those clips tonight or tomorrow. How do you want them, on CD?

 Uncompressed as poss, on CD would be brilliant - I'll PM you an address...

[nik at work]

I embraced the sweaty grit and went to Birchen (yes you heard me right, we had some non-climbing beginners with us).

But the big question is did you try Obstructive Pensioner bulging nose just right of Hornblower)? a boulder problem masquerading as a route - you need a couple of spotters and a mat though.

[dave]

No we didn't try it as it was far too hot, but I did stand beneath it on that block and have a look - rest assured I'll have a go next time I'm sheduled to be there, 5 years seems to be about par.

[(woz)]

had my first trip to ilkley...quality place, very impressive, especially the calf boulder. did some nice eliminates in the shade and some sweaty easier problems . definatly goin back in the winter.
lower left of fairy steps is ok but there isnt much there compared to the upper tier. great place tho.

[Bubba]

I think Ilkley is one of the worst Yorkshire crags - I didn't find much stuff that inspiring really (the Classic Dyno is great mind). I'd drive on by and go to Caley these days.

Swastika Stones look nice mind. I hate how crowded it gets too.

[Johnny Brown]

You drive by Ilkley to get to Caley??? Where do you live, Bingley??
Like most of the yorkshire crags you need a tour from a local to get the best out of em. Have you checked out the curious yellow area? Like a little bit of earl...
That said, I haven't found myself missing it much since I moved back to the motherland.
Can't say that about Caley tho, or earl. I even find myself pining for an evening at almscliffe - not for the bouldering tho - I just miss doing Great western over and over

[Bubba]

You drive by Ilkley to get to Caley??? Where do you live, Bingley??

Not literally  :D

Have you checked out the curious yellow area?

Yeah, too goddam hard for a bumbly like me - that V7 arete (Face Arete?)looked great though.

I love Earl / Caley / Bridestone - Widdop is nice and Lord's Seat is on the cards for a visit soon.

[dave]

I just miss doing Great western over and over

I hear its you and Stu Little thats responsible for most of the pollish. :shock:  :wink:

Almscliffe blows.

[Bubba]

Why do so many people hate Almscliffe?

Is it the gnarly grades, the polish or the cow shit?


.....or have I answered my own question there?

I kinda like it .

[Scouse D]

There ain't nothing gnarly about almscliff grades Bubba- from my experience it's all soft touch. Personally this is why I quite like it too although I've only been a couple of times.

[dave]

Is it the gnarly grades, the polish or the cow shit?

that and the fact its over-hyped, got names/initials carved everywhere and i don't really like the rock there, its too easily pollished. Theres not enough variety in the routes or the boudering. Having said that the best problem there is Syrett's Roof by far, thats just bo and well worth doing.

[Bubba]

There ain't nothing gnarly about almscliff grades Bubba

must be me being a punter then  :cry:

[Johnny Brown]

It took me 18 months living in Leeds to come round to the fact that Almscliffe isn't the worst, most over-hyped grit crag around.
It comes into its own when:
-you live in Leeds and Caley is wet/ overgrown/ midge hell (ie 10 months of the year)
-its not winter, (ie the cowshit has dried and the wind has stopped blowing your mat away)
-the wind gives great conditions even in August
-you get a tour from swanny
-you go to the hunters afterwards....mmmm...real ale

[dontfollowme]

I spent the weekend at the Roaches playing on hot sweaty grit. The weather meant I could have a look at the spring boulders and do a few things there. I also did that pocket problem on the lower tier bolder which was good, having been in wales for ages I haven't pulled on a pebble for ages.