[Bonjoy]

Yesterday two new probs were added to Turning Stone Edge.
 Salle Goose (Dense made a passing remark that a photo of it looked a bit like Salle Gosse) 7c+, is on the well hidden upper tier of the big roof of Happy Landings etc. To be found by turning right (south) and following the top of the edge for 30m from the top of the descent gulley, then dropping down a twiggy ramp. Took me three session and was nearly beaten to it by Andy Banks who stuck the crux after two goes on Sunday, but didn’t manage to link in the start.

Some shots of James on it.








 Just before this and on the lower tier of the same buttress James did the lip/prow just right of Happy Landings. Finger Bang 7a+/7b goes straight up via a flake in the roof and lovely micro-jug rugosites. Pretty high, but safe due to a very springy bush which acts as a trampoline with a few pads on it.




 I’ve also done a whole circuit of probs over on Cocking Tor. Nearly twenty probs from easy-7b. The recent pic of Dense in the bouldering pics thread was on one of these. Will post more details and pics when I get time.

[Somebody's Fool]

Genius name.  Nice looking problem as well.

[PATRuL]

 :-\looksifcould kil topos boysbon

[Stu Littlefair]

for once Patrul-ium speaks sense. Topos.

Class looking problem BonJoy. I'm so excited about turningstone edge, I think i've poo-ed my pants a little. 

[r-man]

Bon effort Mr Joy.

 

Next week's weather looks ripe for a gander.

Can't wait to see pics of the other stuff, after all your enthusiam about reaching from an undercut straight into heaven...

 

[Bonjoy]

Here's a shit topo to be going on with

Not even vaguely to scale.

[andy popp]

Who else would give directions as via a 'twiggy ramp?'

[Greg C]

Looks good, nice one BJ.

[dave]

is the gibbon ting by overton arete? kinda looks like it might be on that topo. word.

[Bonjoy]

Aye, it's the mini arete a couple of metres to it's left.

[a dense loner]

the journey for salle goose alone would be worth it.
the journey for ROL alone would be worth it.
what does this mean?
 
really wanted the crazy eyes thing, i miss crazy eyes

[Bonjoy]

A collection of fairly crap pics of the Cocking Tor circuit

Cock End (that's the problem not the climber)


Prow butress


Prow buttress


Mono Mantle


6c-ish prob


Salad Fingers block

[cofe]

post some descriptions yoot before buzzing off for week. i'm thinking of cock end, mono mantle, salad fingers etc.

[Bonjoy]

i'm thinking of cock end

As ever


Ok. This is in ref to that dodgy sketch. Note all grades are mostly wild guesses.
Cock End is beyond the main crag at CT, set back somewhat. Left arete 5, right arete bearing left at top - Cock End 6c, eliminate on this avoiding pocket and arete 7a, wall right of corner Split Tip 6a.
The arete at the base of the crag is about 6a+, the wall just left is a touch harder. Below this is a block with a funny rib mantle thing which looks in the low sevens depending on if you use block or not.
The prow buttress has two easy probs up the LH side. Starting low and crossing prow just right of centre is a really good 6b+, the groove and rib above just right is 7a/7a+. The wall to the right might give a tricky crimp prob.
 Right past some easy probs and the next buttress of note is one with an obvious ramp in the middle. The slim ledges left of the ramp are Rockabilly Rehab a good 6b+/6c, Monomantle 7a/7a+ mantles the RH ledge direct with the help of a mono, the ramp itself is about 6b starting on the left or 6c direct.
 Right again is a fallen block with shothole marks on the left hand side. A good 6c/6c+ starts sitting under the right arete and trends left to finish up the left side of a slabby rib.
 Right again are some past a couple of potential lines is the last block before the Rhododendron jungle. The right arete climbs at about 6a+/6b on it's left and 6b+ on it's right. The wall left of the arete is Salad Fingers, class 7b with a perfect sloper on it.

[Jim]

word yoot, looks like I'll have to add turningstone-cock-nocker-tor-edge to the POI's now.
Good effort btw. At least you managed to hold on to your ethics

[a dense loner]

i think the 6c-ish prob is a bit harder, tho i couldn't get the kneebar in, am useless, had a late night etc

[Fiend]

These look pretty good if you ask me.

[Fiend]

Question for Gooseboy / a dense gooser et al:

What sort of general condition did the Turningstone / Cocking routes look to be in?? Apart from rhodies, of course. I have vague ideas that with the easterly winds forecast it could dry out okay??

Also, is the parking / access across the fields you've shown the best option?? I used to drive all the way down the track towards Cocking, and park at a muddy bit at the bottom of it, is that too dodgy / impassable these days??

[Bonjoy]

 The routes are in as good a nick as i've ever seen them.
 Yeah, the top parking is the knowledge. Short flat walk in. The public footpath breaks right at the small round plantation and lands you on between the two crags.

[Fiend]

Word.

r-man, bring a harness

[Bonjoy]

Proper map showing parking and path in.

[Jim]

whats the coordinates for the parking lovejoy?

[PATRuL]

 :yawn:where de ell is LENny

[Bonjoy]

SK339615

:yawn:where de ell is LENny

I'm not sure what the where abouts of your brothers cat has to do with this

[Andy B]

We did a sit start to the arete down and left of Gibbon Swing on Saturday. 6b/c, slapping up the left side of the arete using the crack to rock for jugs, then up to the next break using a lovely pocket. I can recommend Gibbon Swing as a very good problem, and I repeated Salle Goose on Saturday, and would like to confirm its quality too.