[thekettle]

Hello people of ukb, Ive finally made the step from lurking guest to posting forum member, after realising that forums can be sensible, funny, polite etc (a former ukc lurker).
 Anyway I proudly announce a fine piece of esoterica has been added to the Northern Lakes area:
 In the forgotten sandstone backwater of the Eden valley, at the little known Scratchmere Scar outcrops, lies the humble Far Rocks, receiving only a mention in an out-of-print guidebook. This fine venue now sports (among other minor problems) an excellent V5/6, a decent sized problem on fine clean rock above a soft flat bed of pine needles. Needless to say this is a must-do for those jaded done-it-alls out there in search of hidden jewels. As a description, simply climb the blank groove direct to the roof, step left and continue up the groove above. Seek and ye shall find...

[Mike Tyson]

More, tell me more.......... 

[thekettle]

You can find the all the crag details at www.frcc.co.uk, and the problem's called The Aspirant (but not documented anywhere as yet).

[Bonjoy]

Nice one thekettle. Once went to Scratchmere many moons years ago, nice little crag, lovely red sandstone, scary big bull in field you have to walk through!

[Fiend]

There was a neat little E1 thing at Scratchmere, packed quite a punch. Milligram - that was it. Some nice solos too. I'm sure there's a lot potential in the area....seem to remember some unclimbed stuff at Cowrake, I think....

[r-man]

Sounds nice. Got any photos?

[Greg C]

You can find the all the crag details at www.frcc.co.uk, and the problem's called The Aspirant (but not documented anywhere as yet).

That's what you think - http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html

Some limestone additions on there too.

[thekettle]

Cheers Mr C, lets hope its gets some deserved attention.
No photo's yet sorry,
Fiend - those unclimbed bits at Cowrake have largely been done and documented by yours truly, nothing to really shout about but they can be found in a darkened corner of the FRCC website under Cowrake Quarry.

[Bonjoy]

Hey thekettle, that reminds me of a weird little crag I found around there but never went back to climb on. On the north bank of the river Eamont, between the cave and Uderford on this linked map, a little west of were the central vertical grid line hits the river: http://tinyurl.com/2wagl7
 Have you ever been? If not i'd recommend a sneak visit, although the access might be delicate.

[thekettle]

Very interesting... Ive never been  - but that may change soon thanks to you sir!

[Bonjoy]

 Let me know what you find (pics would be great), i'd love to know if it's any good.

[tc]

Hey thekettle, that reminds me of a weird little crag I found around there but never went back to climb on. On the north bank of the river Eamont, between the cave and Uderford on this linked map, a little west of were the central vertical grid line hits the river: http://tinyurl.com/2wagl7
 Have you ever been? If not i'd recommend a sneak visit, although the access might be delicate.

Good Lord -- that's only about five fields away from my house!

[Greg C]

Hey thekettle, that reminds me of a weird little crag I found around there but never went back to climb on. On the north bank of the river Eamont, between the cave and Uderford on this linked map, a little west of were the central vertical grid line hits the river: http://tinyurl.com/2wagl7
 Have you ever been? If not i'd recommend a sneak visit, although the access might be delicate.

Good Lord -- that's only about five fields away from my house!

You really know when someone lives in the sticks when they measure distance in terms of "fields". 

[tc]

To be more accurate, it's probably about seven furlongs (or seventy chains, if you prefer). I get a little confused myself -- I still measure distance in links, rods and perches.  Simple country folk...

[tc]

Cheers Mr C, lets hope its gets some deserved attention.
No photo's yet sorry,
Fiend - those unclimbed bits at Cowrake have largely been done and documented by yours truly, nothing to really shout about but they can be found in a darkened corner of the FRCC website under Cowrake Quarry.

Do you know if anyone has had a play on the lip traverse at the far right hand end of Cowrake (either hands on the lip and feet at the back of the roof or using the holds on the lip as footholds)?

[thekettle]

 :shrug:Not that I know of, the popular problem there (Black Cherry) being the traverse utilising the lip holds for feet. Go send!

[thekettle]

  Aha, now that I read your post properly I realise that the answer is yes, the problem described above does that, and it can be found along with others on the frcc website under cowrake quarry, in the Eden Valley bit (I'm sure that could be done with a link). Its one of the best problems in the quarry - praise indeed! Incidentally I failed miserably on a monster highball problem at Scratchmere today, begging to be climbed by someone with genine ability. It's the oft ogled Left arete of The Block, next to the route Spiral Stairs, and I'm (pretty) sure its the Lakes' answer to Careless Torque, 20 years overdue. Please someone send it and give it a big grade before I break my legs trying!

[Mike Tyson]

Here is what I think is TheKettle's new problem.





Me and Climbalive had a good session there today. Spent a good 3 hours working a sit down to the blunt arete just left of the central groove on the first photo, it was hot today and there was little to no friction. It is pretty tough, we got close, but not this time. Reckon a return trip is in order, really nice venue in lovely surroundings.

Here is the Careless Torque style arete Mr. Kettle was on about. Tis most impressive.



Its about 6 metres high and looks cool. Tryed the bottom section but it was tough, I think more mats and large testicles are gonna be required for this.

We only had 1 mat today so didn't try John's problem, it looks pretty cool though. We were a bit confused as to were it actually goes to be honest though

[tc]

Do you still have to run the gauntlet through the field with the big bad bull?

[thekettle]

Looks like you had a good day, however thats the bottom groove of Milligram (E1 5b) you're trying, and the sit start to Scratch (E4 6b). They're on the Birch Tree Buttress, my new stuff is at Far Rocks  about 150m from there and well hidden ( I did say esoteric!). I'll get you there at some point, meanwhile good luck with that arete!
And no, there's a path round the fearsome bull field..

[Mike Tyson]

Ah, I see!!!! My reading skills are dubious to say the least!

We didn't venture to the far rocks, and the reason we were confused was in your description it said climb the groove to the roof, then left and upwards. It seemed logical to go right, not left. Do you know if the sit down we were trying has been done?

I'll PM you fella, hope you had a good time in Scotland.

[climbalive]

golt u cant be the cleverest lad about then can you, getting mixed up wid stuff like that, but then agen a supose  was with you so a cant rely say anything

[tc]

How far did you get on the arete project?

[Mike Tyson]

How far did you get on the arete project?

Do you mean this one:



Or the sit down to the arete we were trying?

If its the one above then only about 3 foot! We didn't have a proper play, only had 1 mat and kinda go sucked into the sit down mentioned. Looks HARD.

[tc]

That's the one I meant. Looks like it's worth spending some time on

[Mike Tyson]

Agreed. It'll be good when it goes. There really isnt many holds visible on it at all and its not exactly a friendly angle on the arete, so it should be spicey. Combine all that with the landing and the angle of the hillside and you have an interesting proposition.

[tc]

Somewhat akin to the old Irish curse "May you live in interesting times" !

[climbalive]

it did look very blank when we were looking at it didn't it golt give me a call or text or pm or whatever about when your next out me and the old lad are probably going up to the cobble tomorrow if you can handle it again, i will be looking forward to another look at scratchmere again soon too

[Bonjoy]

 Anyone been for a look at my crag X yet? BTW, it's not the sandy cave crag on the north bank of the river, it's about a quarter of a mile upstream and north of the river.

[tc]

Yes. The Legendary Dave Hollows during his stint as water bailiff on the river. I quizzed him about it and his advice was not to bother as it was a bag of. Now, either we are telling the truth or...
By the way, as regards access just ask nicely at the farm and they'll let you wander along the river bank to your heart's content.

[tc]

Anyone been for a look at my crag X yet? BTW, it's not the sandy cave crag on the north bank of the river, it's about a quarter of a mile upstream and north of the river.

That would be downstream then

[Bonjoy]

That would be downstream then

What? How do you know that from what I said? Am I being thick or are you? The river runs roughly east-west (or does the Eden discharge on the east coast??)and I said it was on the north bank, upstream of the cave/crag (which is shit and may be what your friend saw).

[tc]

I might be being thick. It has happened before. But that stretch of river on your map is the River Eamont, I think, which flows West-to-East into the Eden.

[Bonjoy]

It's me then  . Should know better really, i used to go out with a girl from Eamont Bridge

[tc]

It gaas be t'niaam uf Yamon Brig. Noo thur's a bonny laal spot, yan uv fust spots ivver God thrown on, or so aah've heert.

[Mike Tyson]

And divnt firget to shut yat over't yonder.

[Mike Tyson]

A good session today meeting up with Thekettle has led to Cumbria's keenest yoot Climbalive doing the second ascent of the Aspirant. Tis a quality problem, with a good scary topout and the greade was confirmed at V5/6. Also did a few other problems there, was good crack. Spent a while working a traverse which we reckon is around V7/8. Was excellent. Think Thekettle or Climbalive may post some pics later. I was too busy getting spanked on everything to take any photos 

Curse you soft skin and weak arms.

[thekettle]

A good session indeed cheers Golt and Climbalive, I will now attempt to add some photo's of todays endeavours:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/thekettle/aspiranrbw.jpg
the technicals start...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/thekettle/aspirantbw2.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/thekettle/overlapsepia.jpg
Climbalive committing to the sepia overlap
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/thekettle/aspirantbw3.jpg
a high topout

[thekettle]

They're links..
that'll do!
 

[climbalive]

ye it was a good session and you have some nice photos i will be putting some up soon, well when i say that i mean golt will be as i have no software to rotate the images and am stuck with win 98 so cant use the usual viewing software.

[GCW]

For the lazy amongst us: 

the technicals start...


Climbalive committing to the sepia overlap
a high topout

There ya go Kettle!!!!   

[Mike Tyson]

Me and thekettle on The Aspirant, nice gurns you'll agree.



Thekettle topping out (SCARY!!)



Climbalive on the V7/8 traverse I mentioned.



My hand 

[tc]

How far did you get on the arete project?

Do you mean this one:



Or the sit down to the arete we were trying?

If its the one above then only about 3 foot! We didn't have a proper play, only had 1 mat and kinda go sucked into the sit down mentioned. Looks HARD.

" Some last problems exist, notably (...) the left arete of The Block" (North of England Climbs, 1992)

Consider it done! Visited Scratchmere for the first time today, even though I only live a few fields away from this crag, too.

"Nemexin" is either a highball V? (someone else can decide how hard) or, in the best traditions of the sandstoner's art, "6c NL". For the former, take plenty of mats and big spotters. I only had one thin mat and one big spotter (and I don't bounce from that height any more), so for the moment it remains a top rope problem. Stunning, intricate climbing, with heelhooks, toe hooks and general slapping behaviour between the two aretes to a dynamic finishing move.    It even has a sit start, although strictly speaking I now have my sit start exemption certificate, which they issue you with up here on your 50th birthday.

[Mike Tyson]

Well done Tim, excellent effort. I was thinking about this the other day, glad it's been done.

It would be pretty scary without the top rope though.

[tc]

OK with a few big mats I reckon. It's scary enough on a rope -- the top of the block is very sharp where the rope runs over it. By the way, the loose pinnacle on the left is now no more, making the sitter a lot better. Get on it youth, it's a class problem.

[Mike Tyson]

Which side did you climb it on Tim, from memory I would have imagined the left as it seemed to have some potential holds.

[webbo]

  It even has a sit start, although strictly speaking I now have my sit start exemption certificate, which they issue you with up here on your 50th birthday.

shirley you've got that wrong.once you turn 50 you only have to do the sit start to get the tick.you can stop when you reach the stand up.

[tc]

Which side did you climb it on Tim, from memory I would have imagined the left as it seemed to have some potential holds.

On the left, spanning between the two aretes.

Webbo, sit starts are for the young and foolish. Like the Plantation. I also now have my Plantation exemption certificate. It came bundled with the other one.

[webbo]

given these days that i can send my back into spasm stepping off the curb.i do very little other than sit starts,on occasion i have been known to achieve lift off.