i used to think that the day before a comp or a serious day out at the boulders, with some project to do, you should rest completely, and ive often done that. lately, lacking motivation to climb at my local crag, i used to focus more on training for other destinations/projects, thinking about the days out as training sessions, with more fun in them. so to stick to the program i happened to having to do one session at home just the day before going out.
doing a hard session, with few maximal moves and long rests, seemed to help me alot to feel strong the following day on the rock, as if ive had awakened my body.
yesterday i found out that its a recommended attitude, on the website of super strong italian climber jolly lamberti, (in)famous for his hard training and physical performances. (you dont climb hugh 9a and bain de sang 9a by chance).
what do you think? anyone has had same experience? its clear that you need alot of planification in advance (i had had two rest days) but my feelings saturday after friday session were truly good.