[rainbow]

I’ve been pulling down in the valley for the last 7/8 years, If I’m honest Ive got oppsessed by the place. In Dec just gone, finally nailed one of my projects “The awakening” which I’m embarrassed to say has taken me 3 years of effort. Done some other quality lines over the years so thought It was about time I knocked up a few topo’s and descriptions as most of them are well off the beaten track. All are done by me unless credited.

Conditions since xmas have been superb, unfortunately the higher temps of this week have meant all the valley is dripping in condensation.

Below is The Chained Block




Situated in the hillside directly opposite gentleman’s, you can just see the block from the path at this time of year. Approach from the right hand side of the block (With all my failures on the line there is now a faint track).

Lean Green etc is slow to dry out.

1 Yellow The Chained Oak Traverse F6c June 06 The main break to the pocket and then to the sharp pocket on arête.
2 Pink Superstring F 6b+   Sit Start on arête go left to get the big flat edge then blast up to pocket then reach the            boss.
3 Red The Awakening F7bish. Dec 06 Same start but gain the chunky crimp and head right, condition depended.
4 Blue The Revival f7a + ish.   Dec 06 Same start but rock for the high pocket.
5 Green Lean, Green, Bean Machine F6c   May 05 FA Dave Mawer.
A brilliant dyno sit start followed by a traditional rock over finish.

The link should be The Awakening movie.
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Vids/?action=view&current=MOV06872.flv?t=1170355850

Pics Of The Awakening.






Pics of Lean, Green, Bean Machine






Below is the Breathe Block


I’m not going to describe in detail where this block is as there is crucial wafer crimp on Breathe which seems solid at the mo but wouldn’t take much pulling off. Anyway it overlooks the road past the ramblers retreat. The top out is slow to dry out.

1 Blue Footprints F6b 2003 Sit Start up the slappy arêtes then follow the main arête.
2 Yellow Finger Print 5+ 2003 
3 Red Breathe F7a+ 2004 Gain the lone sloper from various crimps below to catch the pinch then the break and then the top (Have done it from sitting but is awkward and feels forced) better from the low crimps @ Chest height, Or from normal standing.

Pic of Fingerprint.


Below is the Block Far left of Wrights



1 Yellow Project Hang off Crimps and make a bid for the break (I can’t even pull off the ground on these) Angle is deceptive in photo.
2 Red Out There and Back F 7b 2002 From a Kneeling Start Go directly up the overhanging wall to the break, then make a dyno to the ledge above.
3 Blue Unknown Traverse F7a+ ( Some dude on here I think made the First Ascent a few years ago) Right to left Traverse finishing gaining the ledge using the lovely twin pockets.

Pics Of Out There and Back.


In the bay to the left of the main bulk of Wrights is the Niche Traverse.

4 Rocket Ride F6c+ May 06  goes directly up the wall in the middle of the traverse to gain Juggy edge.


Up and sitting in the next bay right of Cottage Rocks is a beautiful overhanging Arete. This is

1 Push F6a  1999 From a sit start on the left gain and follow the arête,
2 The line to left up the flake is 5+

Pic of Push.



Below is The Toilet Block


This block is high on the hillside with two pine trees ontop, on the right as you go up the path towards Cottage. To get to it go up path as for cottage and kind of double back on yourself where there’s less vegetation. Alternatively contour the hillside right from Push.

The Top is slow to dry out.

1 Red  Bog Trot F6a March 06
2 Blue Touching Cloth F6b    FA Dave Mawer June 06
3 Green Follow Through F5+ FA Kyya Morrel June 06
4 Yellow F 5+

Pic of Bog Trot.


Below is Spooky  Land.


Follow the main path just past Gentlemen’s which goes left up the hillside into the woods, After 5 mins it levels out and on the left you should be able to see this block.

1 Yellow Spooky Wall F6a
2 Red Spooky Arete F6b   March 06 From a sitting start off the trianglular boss on the right gain the hanging arête.
3 Blue Flowtation F6c Nov 06 Sit start off the same boss go up the overhanging wall.

The Wall hidden in the trees on the next bit of rock has been brushed, and would yield a good project if it ever decides to try out.

Pic of Spooky Arete.


All of the above may be not be some peoples cup of tea, but if your down this way check them out any feedback on  grades/Quality etc will be greatly appreciated. Real difficult for me to grade stuff cos I've spent so much time on some of them some may be harder/easier.

I would have done a updated Topo to wrights but haven’t managed  to do any of the really hard stuff. It is in need of an update, need feedback on where exactly all the new lines go. Maybe I’ll try to do another topo.

Enjoy.

Stuart Brooks.
 

[dave]

nice work, some of those look good, have to check em out next time we're down that way.

[fatdoc]

BLOODY HELL

good effort......

right - tryin to get a whole day pass out asap...... i've holiday in most of feb (climb time!!) the landings look good  - essential for me at the mo - i'm off there


waddage for you matey ( i dont give it lightly either!!)

[rainbow]

BLOODY HELL

good effort......

right - tryin to get a whole day pass out asap...... i've holiday in most of feb (climb time!!) the landings look good  - essential for me at the mo - i'm off there


waddage for you matey ( i dont give it lightly either!!)

Ta mate, Was down there this morning must have walked 3 miles, not a dry hold in the house. We need a gale or 2 to dry it all out.

[fatdoc]

if it's OK i'll pm you when i get a free whole day, will be in 2 weeks or so... could do with a detailed conditions report!!

[rainbow]

No worries, May see you down there,  still got unfinished business to do.

[Ru]

Good effort, and thanks for sharing.

[Pantontino]

Tremendous work! Have another wad point. Great to see people getting outside and doing new stuff; there's been too much whingeing about crap weather this winter. Just shows if you make the effort what you can be rewarded with.

[Sloper]

Cheers haven't been to churnet for a while, maybe in March /Aprile when the mshrooms are out.  PS Bonjoy there's Morels in them there hills

[AndiT]

Yeah a great effort for the Dimmingsdale Demon! I can vouch for the quality of a lot of these problems. I've seen Stu a lot of times down the Churnet, each time bubbling with enthusiasm for a new line he's found/working/completed. A stunning effort and proof that there is still plenty out there! Nice one, have some wad.

[BenF]

Yup, nice one indeed.  More waddage to you from me and many thanks in advance from me and others who will no doubt be down pretty quick to check this stuff out.  If the forecast wasn't so good for grit tomorrow, I'd be down there this weekend I reckon. 

[Bonjoy]

Fine work sir. Good to know there's some other dedicated explorers out there.
Sloper - Are you hinting at Morels in the Churnet? It did yield lots of good autumn mushrooms.

[rainbow]

Thanks for all your comments. Most of them may turn out to be local problems,  but if theres just a couple of moves within that lot, that other people enjoy too. It will make all the bushwacking through the undergrowth and cleaning worthwhile. Stuck at work today, hope you lot are making most of the winter sun.

[etjoset]

These look really good - well done. Some of the easier lines look like they might be a good bet in summer when the seepage is less, though finding them in the jungle could prove interesting.

An updated topo for Wright's Rock would be really useful. There were so many chalked lines there when I called in last week - really inspiring.

[Dave Mawer]

Nice one Stu,
Now every can enjoy more Churnet delights!
 

[Mirf]

Hi mate

Good effort on the new problems. Recognise some but not others.
They look great.

Have been exploring the churnet too for a few years, its a very special place.

I think I did the first ascent of the traverse left of wrights rock ?
Remember cleaning a lot of crap off those starting ledges probably about 6 to 7 years ago ? there is another font 7a up and right on the short wall on some small spiky crimps.Also a few small problems exist further left of this in the recently cleared woods, a good warm up traverse about f 6a+ and a very short bum start on a small blocky arete about font 6c+. Will send you some photos if you like.

Also did a cool problem a couple of years back on the overhangs right of wrights rock, but didnt do the top out due to moss and sand but a good problem around font 7b and very unusual.

Did the lower traverse on wrights going left to right starting under simple simon which I dont think had sure been done before around font 7b, some crap hand holds but mainly good footholds, linking this into wrights and going back is a good pump probably about 8a+ sport grade.

Also have a few other projects on the go.

Let me know if you are planning to do a topo, would be keen to help out.

Rob

[Mark Lloyd]

Is wrights traverse easier from right to left ?
I've always started way out left.
What sports grade would you give wrights on its own, either way ?
Am keen to try your low traverse, I used to do a variation from near the undercut problem going left to simple simon.

[etjoset]

What sports grade would you give wrights on its own, either way ?

Most go left to right. For most people it would be about F7c as a route grade, though the crux bit is quite reach dependant, so others might think easier/harder.

[rainbow]

I think I did the first ascent of the traverse left of wrights rock ?
Remember cleaning a lot of crap off those starting ledges probably about 6 to 7 years ago ? there is another font 7a up and right on the short wall on some small spiky crimps.Also a few small problems exist further left of this in the recently cleared woods, a good warm up traverse about f 6a+ and a very short bum start on a small blocky arete about font 6c+. Will send you some photos if you like.
Also did a cool problem a couple of years back on the overhangs right of wrights rock, but didnt do the top out due to moss and sand but a good problem around font 7b and very unusual.

Did the lower traverse on wrights going left to right starting under simple simon which I dont think had sure been done before around font 7b, some crap hand holds but mainly good footholds, linking this into wrights and going back is a good pump probably about 8a+ sport grade.

Hi Rob,

Take it you are Ginger Daves mate??

I looked at the traverse and small arete in the cleared woods about a month ago, they both look really good. Your Traverse on the Out There Block needs a name. I've let to do this, always fail on the last move. Good funky moves.

I trawled through this forum a while ago your 7a prob right of the Out There block, which I think you called it Keith Sharp Holds has lost one of its sharp crimps. Now dubbed Keith No Holds. I can't get off the ground on this. Wicked line. Your Traverse under Wrights, again from memory I think you called it Wrongs Traverse.

I've played on prob immediatly through overhangs right of Wrights, again excellent not managed to get established over the overhang though. I remember Dave telling me there was some body contorted moves on this.

Yeah, would be nice to put up a updated topo as its well confusing with all the Adam's probs. Next time I'm up there I'll try to get a few pics with the intentions of using them as topos

I'll have a word with dave to see if we can organise a day for all of us lot to me up. PS have you been on Daves Garage Wall?? the best training facilitly this side of sheffield.

[etjoset]

I ventured out in the slush today to Dimmingsdale and was surprised to find Wright's Rock essentially dry (only minor condensation, despite it being misty). Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good. Also worked out but then failed to link the Low Traverse (Wrong's) and, whilst harder than the normal traverse, I thought that 7b seemed about right.

If anyone wants to boulder outside this Sunday (11/2), then I reckon that Wright's would still be largely OK.

[rainbow]

Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good.

I'm impressed you've done it in one session. I find it tricky and as ever favours the tall. God I'm going to have to tidy up others projects quickly, before you lot come down a casualy flash things.

[AndiT]

Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good.

 and as ever favours the tall.

Not everything favours the tall but everything favours the light 

[Mirf]

No havent seen dave,s wall yet I keep saying Ill pay him a visit and give him some more holds, gave him some as a wedding present but I think I owe him some more after such a good Caleidh ( think that,s how you spell it?).

I, m in Siurana at the moment so I'll get on the cas when I get back, and In the mean time I,ll try and think of a name for that traverse

Cheers

Rob

[Mirf]

Have thought of a name for the roof crack in the cave at wright`s what about "Wright`s unconquerable" ? see what I`ve done there? It`s probably been done before but did it today, it`s a superb problem form the back of the cave about Fb 7a+ but quite height dependent so somewhere between 6c+ and 7b I reckon. Think the traverse on the out there block should be called "instant funk" not sure why but I just read it on a cd and it sort of sounds right. Also managed to do the extension to the Undercut problem think it`s called point break(done last year by some strong bloke), brilliant moves probably 7b+. A tree has fallen down covering a problem I did last year over on the small block left of the out there block, I never gave it a name but now it`s called "TIMBER !" it`s about 6c+  bum start on pockets up a slopey arete and even tops out it`s quite good if you can move the tree about fb8a+. There is also a nice easy wall to the left of this on great rock but is pretty wet now around 5+. I`m keen to help do a topo to the area if anyone else is, it needs it there`s a lot to do up there, and they`re not obvious unless theyr`e chalked up.

[rainbow]

Was up there earlier today. Wrights Unconquerable is a great line, not sure if its been done maybe someone on here could shed somelight. It is height dependant had a quick play today but to be honest couldn't get started on it. "Timber !" a cool name. Take a whole army of boulders to remove the tree. A topo is on my to do list. Sometime in the next month we'll have to meet up there and chew the fat on what to include in topo. I'm free mostly on Thurs when the clocks go forward I'll be out Mon evenings as well, Just send me a message.