UKBouldering.com

Bouldering on textured walls (Read 3265 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29278
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Bouldering on textured walls
January 30, 2007, 11:13:43 am
Does anyone else rip holes in the backs of their hands on a regular basis? RGU has a Rockworks bouldering wall with the frictiony textured finish. I seem to be in the habit of ripping holes in the backs of my hands and wrists on a regular basis, as soon as I try something vaguely dynamic. Anyone else get this, or you guys fortunate to have plywood panel walls everywhere?

Roll on Transition Extreme.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#1 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 30, 2007, 12:24:28 pm
Does anyone else rip holes in the backs of their hands on a regular basis?

Only when practicing my own crucification.

In response to your point though, no I don't really and I train on a range of surfaces, some of which have a frictiony textured finish.  How are you trying to catch the holds?  With the back of your hands?  That must make it really difficult, but good training for...  well it must be good for something.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#2 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 30, 2007, 12:49:06 pm
I do on the odd occasion, usually when I'm not warmed up and not moving properly yet. Sounds like you do it all the time though. Be careful, rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity...

How are you trying to catch the holds?  With the back of your hands? 

I do it when I slap upwards and scrape the back of my hands on the rock on the way up. Only ever had minor scrapes, but it's annoying when you catch a knuckle and it bleeds. I'm sure lots of people do this.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2007, 01:05:14 pm by r-man »

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29278
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#3 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 30, 2007, 01:12:54 pm
I do it when I slap upwards and scrape the back of my hands on the rock on the way up. Only ever had minor scrapes, but it's annoying when you catch a knuckle and it bleeds. I'm sure lots of people do this.

Pretty much the same as I do. I think that it being moslty vertical and full of bulges and crap doesn't help.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#4 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 08:37:06 am
I do it when I slap upwards and scrape the back of my hands on the rock on the way up. Only ever had minor scrapes, but it's annoying when you catch a knuckle and it bleeds. I'm sure lots of people do this.

Indeed.  Can't remember ever really doing so indoors, but I've had plenty of similar wounds from moving quickly out of pockets, breaks or around bulges outside.

erm, sam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +57/-3
#5 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 10:21:15 am
Ive only done that doing dynos on real rock, not done it for a while though. I got them at the hand wrist interface zone.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29278
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 11:38:45 am
I got them at the hand wrist interface zone.

wrist bone? that's the latest one. Small finger knuckle is another fave.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5034
  • Karma: +141/-13
#7 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 01:34:42 pm
i much prefer the elbow/forearm smash.its quite easy to achieve on the stepped board i use at the local wall.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#8 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 01:52:42 pm
i much prefer the elbow/forearm smash.its quite easy to achieve on the stepped board i use at the local wall.

Ah yes, I know it well. Happens more indoors. This sort of sequence:

1.Reach the crux of the overhanging red problem. The next hold will only succumb to an all out throw...
2.Focus. Channel all of today's and tomorrow's energy into this one movement...
3.Slap for it!
4.The wall shakes. A noise something like THUD! causes everyone in the building to jump.
5.You experience Zero G, just for an instant. Bizarrely your hand does not seem to have moved upwards, and the target hold is still not held...
6.Hit the mat. Realise that your arm was intercepted by a rogue grey hold. It was a big bastard.
7.Stare ruefully at your elbow. It's bleeding.
8.Think about trying again. Then realise it actually hurts quite a lot.
9.Then realise it hurts even more.

lorentz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 311
  • Karma: +6/-3
#9 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
January 31, 2007, 03:38:59 pm
:D I feel your pain. Been there myself. They're the hardest to see those big'uns, especially when your focus is elsewhere!

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5034
  • Karma: +141/-13
#10 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
February 01, 2007, 08:07:32 am
another favorite move of mine which i have recently pioneered is the shin scrape on a textured volume.at its highest level this move requires you to at least leave several layers of skin hanging of the offending volume.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29278
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#11 Re: Bouldering on textured walls
February 01, 2007, 08:44:55 am
Our wall is so roasting hot that you have to wear shorts, so ankle bones and inside of knees are my two favourites.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal