agro: beta for 5'8" stature - left foot on one of the 3 small edges left of the ledge, inches off the ground, right foot on said ledge; RH on lovely crimper low and right, LH finger of choice in evil spikey mono, RF onto edge out right, and gently stretch/rock over for the slopey edge above (which never fails to disappoint), just as your left finger splits! Drag LF up a few inches to a small smear, which means you can reach up and smear blood on the little white diagonal edge. LF out onto a goodish smear, RF onto small starting handhold, then take the micro edge below the weird shothole/pinch (moony uses this in stick it, but is a bit funky), place RF onto tiny smear, then crank down which pushes you up to the glory edge up right - you've done it now, pull down for the ledge up and right, and thank god you don't have to ever pull on said holds ever again ???
