[Danny]

I am plagued by finger injuries.

I since i began climbing I've spent most of my time trying to deal with a2 pulley injuries in particular - on 3 fingers theres now more scar tissue than pulley.

...so I was thinking...does anyone know of the potential to get the little bastards fully removed via surgery?

Considering that its possible to make a full recovery from a complete snap why not do it on purpose in order to end the 'hanging on by a tether and lots of resultant pain' situation that I frequently find myself  in?

I'd like to know if anyones had a complete a2 snap and, if so, what was the recovery like in terms of time and restoration of function?

And, has anyone heard of this being done before?

Or, perhaps I've finally lost it and I should just quit climbing.

Cant see that happening.

[Somebody's Fool]

...so I was thinking...does anyone know of the potential to get the little bastards fully removed via surgery?

This sounds like an extreme solution to your troubles.  But I guess if you've got your heart set on it, a cheap way might be a bottle of bourbon and a meat cleaver.

[Danny]

Sounds like a plan, if anyones willing I could pay with one of my kidneys...

[SA Chris]

...so I was thinking...does anyone know of the potential to get the little bastards fully removed via surgery?

This sounds like an extreme solution to your troubles.  But I guess if you've got your heart set on it, a cheap way might be a bottle of bourbon and a meat cleaver.

I think Ranulph Feinnes used a Dremel. Probably a bit tidier.

All I know from pulley injuries in the past is lots of friction massage is required to break down scar tissue. Bloody painful though.

[Paul B]

I believe you can now buy ultrasound devices for home use (Boots etc.) for breaking down scar tissue although I think theyre around £70-100.

Do you not maybe need to look at whats causing these injuries? I understand some people are just more prone to them, but maybe its a bit more complex than that.

[davej]

Slightly/ totally  off point any one used an  ems machine apparently lots of spainish climbers are using them.   Seen a  few articles in desniville havent seen anything in english though

[Danny]

I can pin causation down, in general, to being initially strong when crimping, but very poor at open handing.

The result: I crimped everything and exposed myself to a2 injury.
These days, because of said injury, the opposite is true

However, I am certainly prone to this kind of injury - I am quite heavy for a climber (13 stone) and I also have long, skinny fingers; a recipe for problems IMO

May have to look at those ultrasound devices though, thanks for the tip.

[fatdoc]

as most know... i av a spacked up foot...... the evidence base of US machines is decidly dodgy... in the past it's helped me though. the full on US machines cost £600+  !!! i'm thinking of going for one of the £100 jobbies.... the tendons in my foot may well stop hurtin so damn much!!

if i get one i'll let you all know if it's any good

[fatdoc]

tried to get one...


ebay purchase system gone to pot...

will get on the blower tomz, lookin at getting a cheap one by the end of next week....

expect a *cheap ultrasound device thread* shortly

[Paul B]

is this any good? its got a hefty discount...

http://www.boots.com/shop/product_details.jsp?productid=1026367&classificationid=1015743

[davej]

Got a compex sport ems off a friend think there may be some milage in its use for recovery.

[Ru]

Got a compex sport ems off a friend think there may be some milage in its use for recovery.

Not really for finger injuries - I would have thought merely opening and closing you fist repeatedly would get more blood going through them, and that's the agent of healing. EMS doesn't seem to get too much blood going round the fingers.

[fatdoc]

i agree with Ru on that one...

I've just ordered a 1Mhz portable Us unit... basically bottom of the range cheap as chips job....

hope it works, cost £109...

[davej]

Hi yes ru think ur prob right with regards finger injuries and ems  me thinks i got my wires crossed was referring to recovery from training/climbing sorry maybe should start another thread cheers dave ???

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

http://radiology.rsnajnls.org/cgi/content/full/222/3/755

Useful if techy med article that some may have seen before, some useful diagrams for those not familar with some of the medical terms.