[Krank]

My fingers are fucked, i warm them up and down every climb but crimps still kill the first joints. I have read a few things on acupuncture being good for the joints anyone got any personal experience of it. cheers

[richdraws]

I had some shoddy fingers that would not crimp without pain and I could not climb more than a few times a week. I had a trip planned for 2 weeks in font and was desperate to get them fixed. So I had 2 sessions of acupuncture and ultrasound. The guy had never done acupuncture in finger before but was keen to give it a go  and I let him? After the first session of acupuncture and ultrasound my fingers had noticeably less pain. I had one more session a few days before I left for Font.

I climbed everyday for 10 days with little or no discomfort, I avoided crimping as often as possible during that time but didn't avoid it altogether. A few weeks after returning from font my finger felt amazing and could crimp all day.

I couldn't tell you whether it was the acupuncture, ultrasound or even just using my fingers everyday (so getting more blood to the tendons) that helped.

[Krank]

cheers mate i thought it might be a good idea. i will go off and hunt down a man to stick pins in my hands.

[Scouse D]

I had acupuncture too for a ring finger injury. The session not only acupuncture but ultrasound massage and massaging of a very tender point under my shoulder blade which apparantly was blocking the flow of chi to my finger(?). Afterwards my finger felt loads better and healed quickly, but I couldn't possibly say which therapy had the greatest effect, or whether it would have healed at the same rate without. I felt good that I'd done something positive about my injury and the fact that I'd spent the money on it made me less likely to rush back to full-on climbing, which helped.
If you believe it's going to help then I think it can. Positive mental attitude and all that.
If you want to crimp like Linford you've got to think like Linford.

[SA Chris]

massaging of a very tender point under my shoulder blade which apparantly was blocking the flow of chi to my finger

Sounds like a bunch of tree hugging hippy crap to me.

[lorentz]

Ooooh - yer'old cynic,yer! And you a yoga bunny as well! :D

As with all these things, an open mind but also a hefty pinch of salt required.

If it works, it works, eh?

How's your shoulder tightness, incidentally? Did the eagle arms help?

[dave]

the fact that I'd spent the money on it made me less likely to rush back to full-on climbing, which helped.

no doubt - you must have given it as long as an entire week. I've never seen you be so restrained after injury.

[bobby knut]

so, how much is ' a hefty pinch of salt' and can anyone recommend a good, small pinch, type of needle thruster in the sheff/barnsley area? got a problematic middle finger that's been keeping me of all holds for weeks
hot and cold flushing been slowly repairing but methinks a nice bit of torture could finish it off nicely