[Jaspersharpe]

You spell it Iaiaiaiaiaian Farrrerrr actually.

[duncan]

Amid the political rantings, supertopo throw up the occasional gem.  Pat Ament (Bouldering early adopter, biographer of John Gill and general legend) has posted some of his photo collection here.


First use of chalk in Yosemite ... 1967


Ament arete (V4) first ascent ... 1967


Characteristic caption:
"Pat Ament, boulder problem I put up at Stanage, England. My pal Charlie Fowler fell off it, tumbled into the talus, and said he thought it was 5.12+. Who knows how hard it would have been were it not raining...."

Any idea what this is?

[tommytwotone]

Characteristic caption:
"Pat Ament, boulder problem I put up at Stanage, England. My pal Charlie Fowler fell off it, tumbled into the talus, and said he thought it was 5.12+. Who knows how hard it would have been were it not raining...."

Any idea what this is?

At a guess, I'd say something around the Via Media area at the Popular End - that direct start to Via Dexter maybe?

Sure JB will be along in a bit to give the knowledge...

[slackline]

Characteristic caption:
"Pat Ament, boulder problem I put up at Stanage, England. My pal Charlie Fowler fell off it, tumbled into the talus, and said he thought it was 5.12+. Who knows how hard it would have been were it not raining...."

Any idea what this is?

Looks like something around Rusty Wall area I think, possibly the start of Via Dexter.

[tommytwotone]

Is it me, or is there an echo in here?

 

[slackline]

Theres a bit of an echo in here isn't there?

 

(Set my account to not bother telling me if a post has been made whilst I've been typing a replying).

[nai]

It's Oblique Crack in the background I think so too far left for Via Dexter? Maybe the wall between Rusty Crack and Via Media?  Think it's Rusty Crack in teh ofreground.

[slackline]

A bevy just posted up by Wild Country...


Jerry Moffatt - Stone Love E9 6c (8a+)


Jerry Moffatt - Le Spectre - 3rd Asc (Photo K. Albert)


Jerry Moffatt - Diagonal De Fou 8a


Jerry Moffatt - Le Minimum 8b+


Jerry Moffatt - La Berizina


Ben Moon on The Minimum


Dave Pegg - Breach of the Peace E8 6c 2nd Ascent


Jerry Moffatt - Super Imazin 5.12


Jerry Moffatt


Jerry Moffatt bridge jump!


Wolfgang Güllich at Raven Tor

[Jaspersharpe]

Wow. Never seen those Buoux ones before.

[SA Chris]

Quality 8b+ in Ballets.

My mate had one of those chequered harnesses the Dave Pegg is wearing (was it the Pat Littlejohn?) I thought it was the coolest thing ever.

[Jaspersharpe]

I think E grades for sport routes should be brought back (just to see the shit storm it would cause on Cocktalk).

[Oldmanmatt]

I think E grades for sport routes should be brought back (just to see the shit storm it would cause on Cocktalk).

No please thankyou very much!

I have enough trouble trying to get my head around subjective, technical, sport, font, V's etc, etc, etc...

And then every bugger argues about them for the first 20 years after FA...

I've decided to shift to the "stand and look at it and ask your self if you think it might be worth trying" grade system.

[luckyjez]

Quality 8b+ in Ballets.

My mate had one of those chequered harnesses the Dave Pegg is wearing (was it the Pat Littlejohn?) I thought it was the coolest thing ever.

It's a Gunfighter. mine is hanging in the 'museum' section of the roof in Outside in Hathersage!

[Johnny Brown]

At a guess, I'd say something around the Via Media area at the Popular End - that direct start to Via Dexter maybe?

Sure JB will be along in a bit to give the knowledge...

Dammit, missed these... and now they've gone. 

[tesla]

Slightly off topic (it's a vid not a pic), but definitely old skool if not pre-skool.

I went to a slideshow the other night given by Fred Beckey, and he showed the following short film which I found on youtube afterwards. He's climbing near Seattle in 1940 (yes, 1940 - he's 87 years old now). I think this is probably the oldest chuffing footage I've ever seen (previous being an ascent of The Old Man of Hoy broadcast from 1960 something I think, but there's probably older stuff around?). Climbing starts at around 3:45.

<embed> </embed>

[SA Chris]

It's a Gunfighter.

Indeed it is. Thanks

[slackline]

I think this is probably the oldest chuffing footage I've ever seen (previous being an ascent of The Old Man of Hoy broadcast from 1960 something I think, but there's probably older stuff around?).

There is this archive footage of climbing in t'Peak, which is probably of a similar age.

Also very old footage of Emilio Comici (and no doubt others) kicking around...



e.g. Bonatti on the Dru interspersed with more recent interviews

[tesla]

I'm getting Chrome malware warnings for the Peak site you linked to, slackers. Suggest people avoid that site. :-(

[slackline]

I'm getting Chrome malware warnings for the Peak site you linked to, slackers. Suggest people avoid that site. :-(

No warnings here (not that malware is ever a problem for moi  )

Its a website of the Yorkshire Film Archive charity, perfectly possible its been hacked though.  Their contact details are yfa@yorksj.ac.uk and would no doubt appreciate being made aware of malicious activities on their site that they may not be aware of.

[Johnny Brown]

No problems here, and a brilliant bit of film, thanks Slackers. Johnny posted some footage of Dolphin from a similar era last month, will try to link it in.

Amazing to see the nail scratches look far worse than chalk ever does.

[SA Chris]

Was about to say the Almscliff Dolphin footage from the JD talk must be a bit older.

[Oldmanmatt]

There is this archive footage of climbing in t'Peak, which is probably of a similar age.

Is that chalk residue in the opening shot?
Or is that what grit looks like after a few "Tricounis" have passed through?
(Boots that chip their own holds...)

I also note, they couldn't resist filming the walking into the crag / cooking / DFBWGC / Sheep....

Some things never change...

[fried]

My browser's flagging this link as 'dangerous'.

[slackline]

My browser's flagging this link as 'dangerous'.

Email YFC with details, I'm sure they'll appreciate it.


I think the Arthur Dolphin clips are also in Best Forgotten Art, haven't found it online yet.

[duncan]

Lakes climbing 1926 and 1935





Driving to the crag...
Cooking breakfast...
DFBW...

There is an Abrahams bothers film of climbing Napes Needle from about 1910 but this doesn't seem to be online.