[Shallowend]

Hello ukb, long time lurker first time poster.

Just wanted to tap the collective wisdom of ukb.

I was climbing at a wall with some friends on Wednesday night and was a friend of mine was advised by the instructor to crimp an edge on a prow as it would lessen the likelyhood of injury. As someone who climbs very open handed I was surprised by this as I would have thought I was more prone to injury whilst crimping (although I accept you should have more stability on smaller holds.)

I have been climbing for 7 years and had 2 tweaked fingers in that time, one of which was from crimping the start holds on strawberries so I was surprised by this.

So should I be climbing more crimped to avoid injury? Is dragging edges rather than getting over them causing me to work harder and should I bite the bullet and spend some time with feet on the campus board knuckling down on the rungs?

[Nibile]

if you read the "open hand - crimping" thread here on this section, you'll get plenty of info.
in my opinion both prehensions are dangerous, if you pull really hard. crimping is mostly dangerous for pulleys and joints, openhanding for wrist and forearm tendons, in my experience.
practice both, remembering that each climber has a preferred/stronger prehension. you can't perform at your best on everything. there's Ondra already for that.

[Shallowend]

Cheers fro the redirect.