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One for the surfers (Read 787935 times)

SA Chris

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#3075 Re: One for the surfers
November 13, 2020, 09:31:29 pm


I thought this was fascinating, how this wave has developed. The footage is just nuts too.

Falling Down

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#3076 Re: One for the surfers
November 30, 2020, 09:55:25 pm
Not sure if this has been shared before. A great short on the history of surfing in Scotland from the lads themselves.


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#3077 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 10:41:42 am
This is totally mental. White Jet Ski got psyched...... too the moon!!


Duma

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#3078 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 10:54:35 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!

SA Chris

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#3079 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 11:12:57 am

turnipturned

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#3080 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 11:25:46 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!

From what I can gather, I think that was the team on the black Jet ski (one before). Not sure what happened to the white (full send) jet ski? probably hasn't landed yet!

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#3081 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 11:28:42 am
This is totally mental. White Jet Ski got psyched...... too the moon!!



Thats crazy! Thx for posting

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#3082 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 11:42:58 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!

From what I can gather, I think that was the team on the black Jet ski (one before). Not sure what happened to the white (full send) jet ski? probably hasn't landed yet!

theres a vid on chris' link from one of the guys on the white ski, sounds like they were ok

SA Chris

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#3083 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 12:01:07 pm
That aside, the waves are mesmerising to watch though, rising out of deep water like mythical beasts. Next few days are going to be very interesting out there.

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#3084 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 01:03:38 pm
That aside, the waves are mesmerising to watch though, rising out of deep water like mythical beasts. Next few days are going to be very interesting out there.

They are the kind of waves you dream about, big open ocean things with a massive face. Always preferred that kind of wave to short fast brutal slabs but not something you really get in UK.

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#3085 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 02:05:40 pm
Dream for you, nightmare for me!

On a smaller scale, had waves like occasionally at Llangennith once, and on a bigger day at Traigh Iar / Sollas Beach on North Uist. Actually hard to paddle into, need to give it all (well I did) and have positioning perfect.

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#3086 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 04:55:59 pm
Guess there are waves like that in Ireland but not East coast. The big Yorkshire points can be similar as can a few spots up here but not that full on shift open ocean stuff.

Surfed a few bombies in Indo that were amazing, hellish to get into with a take off spot shifting all over the place but if your in the right spot at the right time they are pretty easy to surf. I found them much easier on my back hand than the fast hollow waves.

I think surfing those big things like in that video is all about fitness and balls and you dont have to be the best surfer to do it. You get quite a lot of older "watermen" type guys doing it.

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#3087 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 05:01:37 pm
Indo was always on my wishlist but must admit, I never really got to the level where I could do it justice, and accept now I never will. Never put in the time to get to a competent shortboarder level.   

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#3088 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 05:09:41 pm
Thats what everyone thinks when actually its full of amazing beginners to intermediates waves.

It ruins UK surfing though as i struggle to be bothered now other than the 10-12 good days a year we get. Getting to old for the cold.

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#3089 Re: One for the surfers
January 19, 2021, 05:19:46 pm
Yeah, sure it's amazing, still hard to justify, I've always chosen a reasonably priced Alps trip over surf. And get some waves on occasional days a family summer holiday to Canaries or the like.

I hear you on the cold water, this time of the year it needs be very very good for me to be motivated to get in.

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#3090 Re: One for the surfers
January 20, 2021, 11:20:40 am
Not quite not on the above scale, but piss funny, looks nice and quiet......

https://www.liveleak.com/view?t=umiNM_1611064802

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#3091 Re: One for the surfers
January 20, 2021, 11:53:14 am
Thats what everyone thinks when actually its full of amazing beginners to intermediates waves.

I had a mega ten 10 days in Bali. Some great intermediate waves, like Padang Padang (beach) and pretty inspiring seeing places like Ullawatu and Balangan (not sure I would call that an intermediate wave) firing.

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#3092 Re: One for the surfers
January 20, 2021, 12:21:28 pm
Indo was always on my wishlist but must admit, I never really got to the level where I could do it justice, and accept now I never will. Never put in the time to get to a competent shortboarder level.

I felt like that the first time I rocked up in Sri Lanka.

But, you get plenty of easy days to work your way in. In a lot of ways, once you’ve mastered the drop, it’s “easier” to surf a consistent, steep, reef break. No point in head out for a week or two though, you’re going to need a month or so get anything from it.
Edit:
Actually, I meant to say, I highly recommend Sri Lanka for a family holiday (somebody spoke to me as I was typing). The temples and jungles and elephant etc are great for all ages. Buddhist Sinhalese in the South are so friendly and now the war is over, it’s very much worth the trip. Beaches are stunning and the Diving’s pretty great too.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2021, 12:26:58 pm by Oldmanmatt »

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#3093 Re: One for the surfers
January 20, 2021, 07:21:43 pm
Actually, I meant to say, I highly recommend Sri Lanka for a family holiday (somebody spoke to me as I was typing). The temples and jungles and elephant etc are great for all ages. Buddhist Sinhalese in the South are so friendly and now the war is over, it’s very much worth the trip. Beaches are stunning and the Diving’s pretty great too.

I'm somewhat biased as my better half is Sinhalese, but yes, Sri Lanka is brilliant for a family holiday. It's superficially similar to India but without the horrible levels of poverty and in-your-face touts and scammers, so you get to enjoy the South Asian experience without limbless leprotic beggars tapping on your car window which I imagine could be upsetting for a child. As Matt says, the temples, jungles and ellies are mega, if you have never stood side by side with an elephant and looked into the eyes of what is clearly another intelligent creature, then you are in for a treat. The historical stuff like Sigiriya and Anuradhapura is pretty cool too.

I can't comment on the diving or surfing, but as well as the coast I really love the central highlands, all hill stations and tea plantations. It's cool/cold at night too, which can be nice if you tire of the humid lowlands. Don't be deceived by the island's apparent smallness, getting around can be tiring as the driving style tends towards the fatalistic. The capital Colombo is a bit boring and, since most UKBers won't have an array of in-laws to visit, worth getting out of quickly. Sri Lankan food is excellent, not always spicy (particularly if it's catering to foreigners), good for veggies and lots of sea food.

Mmmmm, I am definitely overdue a trip...

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#3094 Re: One for the surfers
February 02, 2021, 01:39:12 pm
I was chatting with Grant, yesterday, when he shared a very pretty view “up Croyde way”, about how the Cribbar was looking like it might fire.
It did.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CKymEy4MoSo/?igshid=1hfif49jx3etk

I tried to paddle into this, February’97, with the 7’6” semi gun I had brought back from Indo/Sri Lanka.

Nearly died.

Washed up in a Zawn on Fistral.

(Brutus, realised I moved to BCN autumn of ‘98, so must have been winter 97).

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#3095 Re: One for the surfers
February 02, 2021, 01:52:47 pm

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#3096 Re: One for the surfers
February 02, 2021, 02:30:16 pm
That looks insane.  :blink:

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#3097 Re: One for the surfers
February 02, 2021, 09:33:56 pm
Croyde beach was out of control on Sunday afternoon and yesterday .. Oysters the outside bomby about a km offshore was working through most of the tide (usually only breaks on low tide Big swells).  Solid Lines to the horizon groomed by a strong offshore.  Very impressive to see but not something I wanted to get involved with. I saw a friend who is a very very good surfer whilst I took the kids for a walk at the point and he wasn't up for it but there was 3 locals in there.  He got a solid barrel on the beachie, in the morning before it got out of control and got snapped in action. I'll share some links to the action in a moment.  20 sec swell period at one point  :o

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#3098 Re: One for the surfers
February 02, 2021, 09:51:10 pm
20 seconds!!!!!!!!!!


 

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