[chummer]

same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today. 

[clm]

same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today. 

This I have never seen!

[philo]

chanced the pier tonight with my fish when it was a bit shallow, ended up in till nightfall catching some clean waist high rights off the wall by myself for a couple of hours.  stoked - took some pics because people wouldn't believe me!

[gme]

I got reports that there was a knee to waist high swell tonight

Stuck in London but probably wouldn't have got in. Got rid of the log, not my thing at all. Can see it might be fun in bit bigger waves but my shortboard works from waist up.

Happy days today as just booked Mentawai trip for next year. Going to kandui villas this time instead of a boat. Roll on six months.

[philo]

aye, compared to the last swell we had it was a dribble but some alright rides.  my 5'8x22 fish will catch anything coming and is fine from dribble to overhead.  Why not a boat again?  what was it like doing a boat trip? im quite interested

[SA Chris]

Is your log sold and gone gme? I'm looking for one a bit more progressive than what I have.

[gme]

I don't think progressive would be a word i would have used to describe the board i had. A massive piece of plastic would be a better idea. Its gone back as i was lucky enough to have it on try before you buy.

I had hoped it would allow me to get in the water a lot more and surf with the boys but now realise that due to the lack of time i have i am better out bouldering, training and doing all my chores etc. when its small and waiting until the waves get good again. The kids still need loads of supervision in the water as Mum will kill me if i loose one of them.

Philo - boat trips are great, i love them to bits and have done 5 but we fancied a change. The mentawais now has loads of land camps and the government is trying to limit the no. of boats as they put little if anything back into the local economy. Plus it was actually cheaper to goto a luxury camp than an average boat.

Heres a link to the welcome video for the place we are staying.

Whilst living on a cramped boat for 12 days is great fun, there is no doubting that where we are going is going to be a lot more pleasant than waking up each day with someones feet 3 inches away from your face. The surfing is just as good and with more choice. One of the only friction points you get on a boat is where to surf, you all have to go to the same wave like it or lump it.

In a camp you can all choose where you go.

Saying all that i might hate it and be back on boats in 2013

[SA Chris]

I don't think progressive would be a word i would have used to describe the board i had. A massive piece of plastic would be a better idea. Its gone back as i was lucky enough to have it on try before you buy.

Doesn't sound much better than mine in that case anyway. Menatawis look great, how many of you going? Would love to go, but I just don't think I could do the waves justice.

[gme]

Seven of us at the minute, all mates who have done a few trips together which makes the trip more enjoyable. Most of us are ex climbers who have been doing trips for years so its a really good craic from start to finish.

I have been to this area before when i was a pretty shite surfer (not that i am any good now) and there are waves for everyone other than true beginners. Nipussi, burgerworld and bikini lefts are like a really good day on the beaches here, not as heavy as Thurso east by a long shot. Britain really does have some heavy waves that are on a par to a lot over there so dont be put off. Plus they are like glass a lot of the time which, as we all know makes it so much easier to surf.

[SA Chris]

One day....

Although I would probably go catskiing if I had the cash.

Too much fun, too little money and time.

[granticus]

there are waves for everyone other than true beginners. Nipussi, burgerworld and bikini lefts are like a really good day on the beaches here, not as heavy as Thurso east by a long shot. Britain really does have some heavy waves that are on a par to a lot over there so dont be put off. Plus they are like glass a lot of the time which, as we all know makes it so much easier to surf.

   Super Jealous! Maybe one day when time, money and Mrs Granticus permits   

In the meantime getting pysched to run away from the coast and family for a weekend to surf some Yorkshire gritstone!

[philo]

http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm

[philo]

http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm

finals day today in Tressles

[clm]

same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today. 

This I have never seen!

Spoke too soon. Well, sort of. Hells mouth was waist to chest and totally mindless. I think my 'perfectly peeling' radar is set a little high after visiting currumbin, Byron, lennox and crescent head this summer.

[philo]

my perfect English peel is the gare,  gme surfed it?  I love that place, apart from the crowds.  I hope this little swell heading our way materializes.
ASP france due to start, its going to be perfect timing. 

been watching some strange videos lately, but the fish interviews always make me laugh

[clm]

Obviously that was meant to say windless.

[gme]

Philo
Have surfed the gare a few times but don't like the crowds. Surf it's relative that goes the right way in the other ne rivermouth lots. This gets really busy too but I know a lot of them so no Agro.

[philo]

aye same here, i always see the same faces but theres still hassling for waves.  if any of the SS lot are in any of those breaks, its pointless getting in.
everyone always bangs on about the one up your way which puts me off as its also crowded. 

[gme]

yeah it has got pretty busy in the last few years and getting worse. There never seams to be an issue of one of the UK mags out that dosent have a picture of it in.

I was getting pissed off but now just accept it. Its still mellow most days and i get all the waves i want but they know i am a "local" so i get space. You have to take waves now though and it used to be that they were shared.

I lost my rag one day with a young kid from newcastle who was paddling round everyone and not queing, had a proper shout at him in the water (i was having a bad day) and i guess word gets round among the young grommits to steer clear of the knarly old local guys (theres only 2 of us but we are both the wrong side of 40 and i guess must seem old and scary to 18 year olds). So now they all tow the line.
The pros who come up are usually very careful not to tread on anyones toes and pretty much let you have what waves you want.

You can still get it to yourself though in the depths of winter or just with a few mates.

[philo]

well, the pier wall down our way is manic at times and the SS lot will constantly snake you.  They do it everywhere, i was down saltburn before and some locals were getting out because of it.
But that's what they want - people to get out.  Its mostly mellow down our way apart from the peaky spots like the one mentioned and another point break.
I surf the low key areas with a handful of people and most miss it to go to the well known spots.  It is getting to be a massive problem hassling for waves but i guess its part of the norm.
I never surf the middens because of it.

[gme]

The middens is funny as they all paddle themselves to deep a lot of the time, but only a few of them are good enough to make the first section.
If you sit a bit wide and inside you can pick up a lot of waves.

[Baron]

Who are the 'SS' lot? They sound like the Cartmans ('RESPECT MY AUTHORITAR!') you get round Scarborough.

I generally surf between Whitby and Saltburn now - much better vibe. Made some good mates.

[gme]

The SS lot are an unfortunate bunch of Geordie's who have to live in the netherlands between Newcastle and Sunderland. These poor unfortunate souls have been brought up wearing black and white but have the displeasure of living closer to the stadium of shite than to a real football ground.

They also have to surf the worst beach in the north east so must travel a lot to other spots, usually in the red and white area (small) of the NE.

This all makes them very confused as to there true identities so they behave like dicks in the water. Whilst this is not an excuse i do have an amount of sympathy for them.

[philo]

when he says act like dicks, he means they snake constantly, drop in all of the time and know what they are doing.
Its not always bad at SS just most of the time, at low tide you can get barreled on the beach break but its usually close out central.
They dont travel in one and twos, they go in groups of 5+
anyways i hope this swell develops for the week ahead, ive been doing alot of skating in a bowl attempting 180s and failing.  I always feel like my surfing is cleaner when ive done a stint of skating before a swell arives

[philo]

here we go with the quicky pro france:


http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2011/liveHD.en.html