It's got big again. New southerly swell competing with the dying east swell from yesterday. Still great waves but punishing. Spent half hour paddling to get out , nearly gave up but two others next to me which brought a bit of competition into it. Eventually got out back to six to eight foot barrels. Sat scared shitless for fifteen mins before I found myself in the spot with ten pairs of eyes staring at me testing my balls. I went and got a screamer. Two good turns and pull into a nice pit. As usual with my barrel riding it all went wrong from there and I got flogged. Still nice to get a few seconds of glory. Another ten mins of hard paddling gets me out back again sat on my board for a breather when the biggest set of the day arrives. All caught inside. Duck dive goes all wrong and I feel the delightful feeling of my board pulling at my leg until ping. Fir the First time in my life I snap a leash 400 meters out in big surf. Long swim, crawl, drowning follows until I reach the beach fucked. Boards been rescued by someone on the beach so I head home to lick my wounds. One and a half hours of hell for fifteen seconds of glory. God I love surfing.
Note to self: On big days - don't surf to exhaustion, always have some beans left just incase... Brush up your swimming skills in bigger surf!
Love nights like this - seeing any of the swell chris?
