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One for the surfers (Read 722897 times)

ben

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#1925 Re: One for the surfers
February 15, 2011, 09:39:14 pm
Down Falmouth/area on Saturday for a week.

Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?

Not interested in Porthleven. I'm not good enough.

Cheers
Perranathuoe round the corner is nice and a bit quieter/mellower than Praa. Judging by the swell forecast and S/SW winds it would be worth trying porthmeor in st.ives, gwithian (anywhere from godrevy down to the rivermouth, depending on the swell size and wind direction).  Plus there's some primo bouldering at the top end of la plage..  well the same goes for Porthmeor actually!

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#1926 Re: One for the surfers
February 15, 2011, 10:24:35 pm
Quote
Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?
Here's the predictions for Gwenvor.

Sat = 7ft @ 11secs SW wind
Sun = 12.5ft @ 16secs SSW
Mon = 12ft @ 14 secs W
Tues =  8ft @ 12 secs W/SW
Wed = 7.5ft @ 12 secs SSE
Thurs = 11ft @13 secs WNW

shhheeeeeeeeeeeesh! You picked a ripe time to come down SW.  You'll need to keep a close eye on the swell charts and the
wind direction to make the most out of your visit.  This is all likely to change but you can expect all the 'regular' beachies to be big and blown out or big and maxed out or both.  You'll need to find sheltered spots with offshore winds,  unless you have a large pair and are a bit of a hell man.

Falmouth itself works on a big swell in a NW wind (look at Thursday!)...  Hayle rivermouth, the far south corner of Sennen will be smaller the rest will be huge, all the beaches round the corner at St Ives (Carbis bay etc..), St Agnes, Harlyn.... basically anywhere that doesn't face west into those winds (so not Perranuthnoe or Godrevy!).  The swells are big enough for waves to be wrapping into sheltered bays you just need to do some homework before you head out. Take care out there it's proper winter heavy waves at the moment.

Baron

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#1927 Re: One for the surfers
February 15, 2011, 10:58:24 pm
Cheers boys that's awesome.

Should be fun on my brand new board ridden twice before in slop.

Idol, I'll be in touch.

granticus

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#1928 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 12:23:48 am
As promised here is P-Land Tuesday lunchtime.  Hard to get a perspective of wave size if you don't know the beach but those who do will know.


P2150049 by granticus27, on Flickr


P2150040 by granticus27, on Flickr


P2150038 by granticus27, on Flickr


P2150034 by granticus27, on Flickr

SA Chris

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#1929 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 09:12:55 am
I know well - looks awesome. Odd picture though - appears to be no-one on it?

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#1930 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 11:32:21 am
There was 5 surfers and one lid skidder out before the swell hit.  All us surfers were on short boards in th 6ft range.  Waves 6 to 8ft..  Looks epic but extremely difficult to get into waves, especially on a little board as they were sucking up/ breaking top to bottom with speed and so everyone headed in.  No-one turning up fancied it which left no-one in the water.  A really grunting swell.  Smiles and banter on the beach afterwards.. 'Why didn't you stay out mate its' epic?' etc..

6 to 8 ft again today.    :o

SA Chris

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#1931 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 12:05:13 pm
Not knocking you, just odd to see it empty.

SA Chris

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#1932 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 03:07:10 pm

granticus

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#1933 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 05:51:11 pm
Not knocking you, just odd to see it empty.
Not taken as a knock I know from experience when I'm in too deep, run away... run away!. :) You're right it is very odd to see Puts empty especially when the wind is from the south as it was on this day.  Plenty of folks in the car park but no takers in the water.  The piccies just don't do justice to the size and shiftiness of it all.
Just goes to show you can get a surf without the crowds at plenty of spots if you're willing to give it a go.  I think I know where everyone would've been headed for though. :whistle:

I surfed the right at the famous Exmoor left for 3 hours on my own the day before.

Baron

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#1934 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 06:51:02 pm
Do you mean 6-8ft faces, or 6-8ft swell (12-16ft faces)? Still confuses me.

Guessing 12-16ft from the amount of white water (i.e.how far out their breaking)?




granticus

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#1935 Re: One for the surfers
February 16, 2011, 11:57:59 pm
Do you mean 6-8ft faces, or 6-8ft swell (12-16ft faces)? Still confuses me.

Guessing 12-16ft from the amount of white water (i.e.how far out their breaking)?

You and me both.  What do you want Hawaiian, Australian, North East, Scottish, Irish or SW wave measurement?

The swell size was in the 12ft region and it arrived around 3 hours before expected,    by the time it reached Puts beach it would equate to 6 to 8ft on the face (ie 3ft on the Hawaiian scale ::)).  The walls of white water on the set waves were over head high and the wave faces on the set waves were reaching double overhead for someone of average height.  Waves were breaking a loooooong way out and the paddle out when the sets started coming in would've been a beast but I was already out there so only had to scratch out 50 metres or so to get behind them.  No-one made it out after those that were out came in.  Probably in the region of a 200 metre paddle in from there to dry sand.

Baron

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#1936 Re: One for the surfers
February 17, 2011, 07:33:51 am
Ha ha! You're right, it's like a surfing V vs font grades debate.

Lets keep it simple:

- climbing = easy/hard/impossible
- surfing = small/head/massive



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#1938 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 02:28:51 pm
 :agree:  :goodidea: Done..........

Falling Down

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#1939 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 09:24:07 pm
More wave garden here

http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos

I've had a good long look at the website and the videos.  My verdict... it's shit.

Yes, a nice idea in recreating the bathymetry and hydrodynamics of a wave but as a surfing experience it looks bobbins.  Waist Sunderland head high (:P (sorry Philo couldn't resist  :hug:  ;)) gutless shite.  Fuck, I'd rather go to the pub.  If that's really the best footage and best they can do after all that investment then they're fucked.  It's no coincidence that all the videos are of kids on foamers,  bodyboarders and Alia boards:wank: ...



gme

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#1940 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 09:38:53 pm
Foamers, bodyboarders and alia's. Fuck me it's going to be popular in the uk.
Now where's my bank managers no.

philo

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#1941 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 09:41:32 pm
some comments on that vimeo link about a larger wave is on its way!

and fyi im 6ft  :hug: :hug: :hug:

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#1942 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 10:02:09 pm
 :lol: sorry  :P

Larger wave on its way.... <chinny reckon emoticon>

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#1943 Re: One for the surfers
February 18, 2011, 10:23:09 pm
looks sweet though, anyone got a spare acre? Do you think it will spark a artificial wave culture like the indoor scene of climbing?  If you can get a perfect wave then your not going to drive an hour to the beach to get some shitty inconsistent swell are you?
Quote
Board Culture 1 day ago
Yes, this coming summer they will have shoulder high waves :)

granticus

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#1944 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 12:02:11 am
looks sweet though, anyone got a spare acre? Do you think it will spark a artificial wave culture like the indoor scene of climbing?  If you can get a perfect wave then your not going to drive an hour to the beach to get some shitty inconsistent swell are you?
Quote

I'm not gonna drive an hour to the beach for some shitty inconsistent swell coz it's 10 mins away :P  Nor would I drive for 10 mins for some shitty inconsistent swell, at least not deliberately anyway.  Nor would drive however far to, presumably pay good money, to surf an artificial wave.  It is worth waiting for the a slice of perfection served up the natural way and I would suggest that it is much more fun....

Maybe I could be swayed during a prolonged flat spell but being as we are currently spoiled for choice I couldn't think of anything worse than surfing a piddle artificial wave.

gme

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#1945 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 12:09:55 am
We already have our own artificial wave in the ne.
http://www.newcastlegateshead.com/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701#ProductList-/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701

I am keen to have a go soon.

granticus

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#1946 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 12:41:55 am


Here's footage from the one in Newquay...

granticus

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#1947 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 12:45:30 am
Not quite as fun looking as one of these though...


SA Chris

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#1948 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 12:15:59 pm
I didn't know there was a flowrider in Newcastle. Worth remembering if it's too wet to climb. And there's no surf. And Climb Newcastle was closed. And all the pubs burned down :)

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#1949 Re: One for the surfers
February 19, 2011, 01:16:20 pm
 :lol:

 

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