[DaveC]

Mean't to post this a while ago. Good to see santa finding time out from his delivery run to catch a wave or two...and am I mistaken or is there one guy swigging on a drink can?

Actually, this vids better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224

[john horscroft]

Mean't to post this a while ago. Good to see santa finding time out from his delivery run to catch a wave or two...and am I mistaken or is there one guy swigging on a drink can?

Actually, this vids better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224

  Strewth, Dave, the guys an Aussie.  Of course he's drinking beer while surfing..... 

[galpinos]

I saw that trailer the other day - looks mental.  Apparently that one is in Northern Spain somewhere.  What 'it' is I have no idea though.

I'll go twos with you Ben if you wnat to set up the Chinley Surf School!

[Falling Down]

Yeah, Brian might find we've dug up his paddock whilst he's away in NZ 

[gme]

Got the bug back today. Chunky south east swell so four of us checked a new reef we have had our eye on for a while. Solid four to five foot with not a breath of wind. Two waves a reef/ point left and a left right peak. Being a goofy I headed to the left. Really good wave not hollow on the shit swell we had today but would be I guess on better swell. Great to still be finding unridden waves in the uk. Now called meat ( the left) and veg( the peak). 

 I got a bit cocky and ended up caught inside on the biggest set of the day ( well double overhead)and got a goodeight to  ten sec hold down then another to make sure I didn't do it again.
Ten secs feels like a long time when your under water.
A tourist took a few pics and is going to email them. Will post them if he does. 

[philo]

green with envy of you right now.  complete wash out south of the river(s)  nothing working.  My mate text me saying blyth was going off - clean and glassy but I didnt get it till I got in, to then be told again I was in the wrong place!  Tomorrow im heading north early though the wind looks suspect.  Sounds like you had an ace session, there is nothing better than finding a reef that is both working and empty

[philo]

off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

[Idol eyes]

1:06

[bigd942]

[Baron]

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-6mm-Infiniti-X-Zip-Hooded/Item/2077/

Anyone got experience of one of these? Seems a good buy.

I'm a bit scared about wearing 6mm of neoprene; will I be able to move?! Or is it the way forward for the east coast in winter?

[philo]

well, i use the 5mm version (without hood) and its toasty, I never get cold.  that price is really good though, they are normally 300+

[bigd942]

I've a c-skins 6/4 wired that's a few months old, it feels quite thick putting it on and taking it off, especially that last bit getting it past your feet after being in the water, besides that it feels fine in the water and I've never felt restricted in it, I have a c-skins 5/4 and used to wear a thermal rash with hood during the worst of the winter, that combo of rash and suit felt a bit more restrictive, probably due to friction between the materials, the 6/4 doesn't have that feeling.

I'm a sponger so would be more shoulders and legs, not really popping up except for the odd stab at drop knee. I'm north coast of Ireland, typically I'm in the water three to fours hours without any hint of chill except for the odd flush.

[Falling Down]

In my opinion you're better off going for a better zip/closure system (Drylok) rather than adding more rubber.   GME will able to add more info as he's used several Excel suits on the East Coast for some years. 

Disclaimer: I'm a total fairweather tropical surfer these days so not best placed to comment on winter wear 

[gme]

I have not worn a 6mm for years. 5mm drylock is the way. I used to wear 6mm but the suits are getting better year on year. If you wait a few months there will be loads of bargins on the go.
Another good surf yesterday on my own. Hard work as constant paddling to stay on the peak as usual when we get a se swell.
Looked nice this morning as I left the house but on train to sheff now so no surf for me.

[SA Chris]

Nigg and Aberdeen looked pretty good this morning too, but sadly not an option for me today either.

[gme]

The lack of swell this year has almost been a blessing for me as work commitments would have meant missing a lot of sessions.
Flatness gets you down but missing good surf is about as much fun as a kick in the balls.

[granticus]

The lack of swell this year has almost been a blessing for me as work commitments would have meant missing a lot of sessions.
Flatness gets you down but missing good surf is about as much fun as a kick in the balls.

Lack of swell??  Sounds like the NE hasn't been too lucky, after a long flat spell it has been pumpin here for weeks on end and the winter reefs have sparked.  Ireland has been getting some huge swells.  I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.

[SA Chris]

I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.

You reckon?   Also the fetch is pretty dismal compared to the SW.

[clm]

off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

Caught inside doesn't look that catstrophic there to be honest!

[SA Chris]

I thought that. Compared to some of the poundings I've taken on the head.

[SA Chris]

PJ has suffered bad head injury

http://www.thisissouthwales.co.uk/news/Emergency-brain-op-legend-accident/article-3211526-detail/article.html

[granticus]

I thought that. Compared to some of the poundings I've taken on the head.

Just got back from a surf at Putsborough '2 to 4ft' and looked pretty small on the webcams.  Paddled out, no worries and caught 6 or 7 nice shoulder high waves.  Only 6 people in  

3 of us over towards the cliffs spotted a lump on the horizon and started paddling out to sea, we all (just) managed to scratch over a monster set, each wave in it bigger than the previous. Solid overhead and half.  Very heavy compared to an average day at Puts.  Being on a 6''2 (under gunned and no chance of paddling into one of these beasts) and having previously experienced a thorough beating resulting in a hole in my thigh in similar conditions.  I took the decision to head in as quick as possible, the 2 others out with me made the same choice.  I got about half way in and turned around to see another beast set coming in, paddled towards it and duck dived the first one which ripped the board out of my hands.  Clambered back on to the view of an in coming wall of white water that I wasn't going to get under.  Ditched board and dived under.  Got picked up and rumbled shorewards in the wash cycle, trying to stay relaxed and come up when things chilled which seemed like forever.  Popped up gasping and was relieved to see I was a lot closer to shore.  The new boomer swell arrived early, £4 to park and a proper beating, should've gone to Exmoor Coast. Be careful out there peeps  

Will upload some piccies I took of big sets rolling through after I escaped.  Huge swell combined with offshores expected SW tommorow.

[philo]

off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

Caught inside doesn't look that catstrophic there to be honest!

aye what i meant was, I was sitting shallow and rather than paddling around the peak, I tried to beat it and this was the spot where I was just about to turn around, should have called it, being too slow at paddling and a lazy twat

[Baron]

Down Falmouth/area on Saturday for a week.

Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?

Not interested in Porthleven. I'm not good enough.

Cheers

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Not too far to Sennen