[philo]

One for the goofers, love anything this style of surfing

[gme]

Reubyn is, i think, the Uks best surfer. He is the only one who is anywhere near what is coming out of Aus/USA/SA.
But he is still well behind the top boys.

I too love this style of surfing, even though i will never be able to do any of the shit they do i love it. Its the same with climbing, i want to hear about and watch cutting edge not bumbling.

Philo, have you seen BS or Modern Collective. The stuff the Dane Reynolds, Jordy smith, Dusty Payne, Mitch Coleburn, Dion Aigus and Yadin Nicholl do defies physics. Modern Collective is watched every time i am missing the water.

I also think the Julian Wilson dvd will be well worth getting

I couldnt get any clips to link to but found one off BS, the airs they pull towards the end make reubyns look like chop hops.

[philo]

yeah ive seen alot from the wave comps, not the dvds tho - reminds me i need to purchase some.  The reason I like the clip so much is because it is in English shitty chop water rather than a pipeline quiet day. 

[gme]

That the same reason i like modern collective so much, most of the time they are surfing in shit quality waves that look no different to your average day on the east coast, either small and clean or big and wild. It gets you motivated to try to do one single move on a shitty close out when perhaps you might not have bothered getting in.

If you just watch DVDs of perfect 400m long pointbreaks or indo reef perfection you will end up being a bit disappointed every time you goto the beach.

I have loads of DVDs i should have a clear out, i will try to post a list on here free to good homes.

[SA Chris]

Exchange programme?

[slackline]

Rad Rodents 

[philo]

got in today for roughly an hour, clean 4 ft waves.  water temp 8°, air temp -4°.  My face nearly dropped off, I never usually have issues with the cold but today my hands were super numb aswell.  Anyone have any plans for the weekend? 

[granticus]

SSS = Sick South Swell coming through Sunday/ Monday, combined with perfect swell direction and winds for South Facing coasts...  South Coast England, Lleyn and Pembrokeshire should all be going off.. 
Stuck in North Devon with the new babbit so will have to wait on for something more westerly..

[Idol eyes]

South Coast overhead and super clean, Obvious reef choices are all on... Building tomorrow! Temps are bearable too!
Had Wrestles near perfect...

[Idol eyes]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs413.snc4/47657_1492078554054_1596721730_31159372_6635504_n.jpg?download

[Idol eyes]

Wrestles?
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1226.snc4/155842_1492071273872_1596721730_31159356_5281202_s.jpg

[ben]

so good he posted it twice..  looks fantastic. If I wasn't in bed sick as a dog I'd have been out there today 

[Idol eyes]

Doh!
Bear with me...

[gme]

Looks nice. Must be a different world down there as it looks like your hoodless.
Similar on east coast on fri. Nice little barrelling lefts on a sandbar nine out of ten were closeouts though.

We would call that about one to two foot though. South coast must be full of midgets if that's overhead.

[philo]

was out today in some 1-2 foot (like that picture) The colour of the water down south is so beautiful in comparison to our chocolate waves. 

[Idol eyes]

Dying swell... 6.5 tomorrow, building... It was only a foot or so with the occasiaonal overhead sets.
Going to some weird double cove set up... been skunked twice before here, but reckon tomorrow is on!

[Idol eyes]

Surfed wrestles again today... absolutely fired at five to six feet! Fiercely dominated by competitive crowd. Had to gain trust with the longboard... had some great little barrels and avoided the sets, sat out on the shoulder and took the wider sets early! really like the reef set up here. Surfed Perranunthoe?, The Cove tomorrow? think it was too big today, the indicator rock was visible an shrouded in mist!

[granticus]

Looks nice. Must be a different world down there as it looks like your hoodless.
Similar on east coast on fri. Nice little barrelling lefts on a sandbar nine out of ten were closeouts though.

We would call that about one to two foot though. South coast must be full of midgets if that's overhead.

Current (no pun intended) water temperature in North Devon around about 12C compared to 8C up your way...  Which is about the minimum temp we'll get to by late Jan/ Feb.  At this time of year it can feel really nice to get out of the cold air temps into the relatively warm ocean.

[gme]

Last two days have given us a good bit of surf with more to follow, shame i am going to miss it as away with work.
Had my favorite slab with 3 mates yesterday which was far from classic but still really good fun. Just over head and nice and hollow.
Then had her again today on my lonesome, bit wierd and shifty but still 3 ft and throwing a few nice pits, none of which i managed to exit ( still to master the coming out bit, only manage about 1 in 20 but the pleasure of being in there is worth the wupping).
 Its a mad place to be on your own so only ended up in for an hour at the most. Its shallow, heavy and quite intimidating and when i say on your own i mean on your own. no surfers, no walkers, no babes in bikinis, just a few sheep and the odd seal.
Two great days apart from the cold, it was bad yesterday but about as cold as i have ever felt today. Car said -3 and with a NW wind blowing straight accross our frozen land it cut to a quick. Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start. On my way back to the van my face felt like it was being grit blasted.

You southerners have it lucky in some ways.

[SA Chris]

Thought it might be good down your way. Some nice longish period groundswell was showing in Aberdeen. And I had to work

[ben]

Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.

strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here

[philo]

that was brilliantly put there gme, 9/10 times I surf alone, partly to the fact I hardly know anyone and don't really bother with people. sometimes I feel like I'm being watched when i surf some of the more sheltered spots down here, the ones off the beaten track and some what shady areas.  Got in today for a surprisingly clean session.  The wind made it a bit choppy later so I got out.  The spot I was at today is an old mining slag waste bit so is basically a horseshoe into a beach of 10 metres overlooked by 50ft cliffs.  The steep hill to get in and out was fun on the way in but not so much when your fucking freezing on the walk back to the car.  I've always surfed this spot alone and when it gets dark there I never feel comfortable.    Re getting pitted, I find it hard deciding whether its going to close out on me and have often enjoyed a lip to the face through it. 

[gme]

Barrel riding is a dark art i believe. I have had more tips about it than anything else, the best ones are pull into everything, dont close your eyes (easier said than done at first), hold on and look at the exit (this is usually the bit dissapearing off into the distance and getting smaller).
 I believe its all about board position and not much else.
As with everthing involving surfing the thing that makes it hard is the fact that you cant break it down into bits. How much longer would it take to do a boulder problem or route if you had to start at the bottom every time and the holds had changed slightly on every go.

The favorite bit of bassalt i keep going on about on here now features on a reasent video (and most of the recent UK mags) from the big swell we had in Oct. And in the inerest of my trying to be more Johnny Brown like and share my waves, coffee, house bed and wife with all others here is a link.



My love features at 0-50 secs, 124-138 secs and 243 to end.

Enjoy

[philo]

aye ive heard danny bang on about this on the other channel and ive heard others mention it.  Looks sweet for a goofer and next big swell I will pop through for a session if you like? 

[fatdoc]

Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.

strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here

Hardcore, you know the score...

Respect