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One for the surfers (Read 722643 times)

curly ben

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#1500 Re: One for the surfers
October 05, 2010, 10:27:26 pm
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?

pass it on if someone would like to read it. all good

SA Chris

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#1501 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 09:26:06 am
Will do. Anyone want to read it, FD, do you still want to?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Few-Perfect-Waves-Audacious/dp/0224075861/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286353495&sr=8-1

PM me with an address and I will post it on.

slackline

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#1502 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 09:47:56 am
Now't special but my brother snapped this at the weekend whilst down in Tramore surfing himself (although I'm hoping this is before/after he was in the water as he had my lens :P)

Surfing
 by gpshephard, on Flickr

john horscroft

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#1503 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 12:02:09 pm
Thinking of heading down to Woolacombe/Puts/Bude tomorrow.  How's it looking given my beginner status??  MS reports messy at the moment but possibly improving over the weekend as the wind shifts round to the east?  Help!   ::)

SA Chris

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#1504 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 12:21:33 pm
I would say it would be fine for you. I would have a look at Suanton, which I expect will be absolutely heaving (look down from parking on cliff edge) and if it is head over to Woolacombe, head south down the bech until you find a quieter peak and enjoy the day there. Croyde (and often Puts) are a bit heavier and are often busier with better surfers.

IMO of course. I'm sure the local will be along shortly.

john horscroft

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#1505 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 12:31:48 pm
Thanks Chris!  :thumbsup:

Probes

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#1506 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 01:02:34 pm
Crantock rules outright when its like this... i had a very fortunate day about 3 yr ago with about 8 hours solid of these, like clockwork every ten minutes, you were getting barrelled when you didnt even want it, didnt leave the water all day  ;D



enjoy
« Last Edit: October 06, 2010, 01:09:13 pm by Probes »

john horscroft

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#1507 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 02:33:22 pm
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance.  I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide.  So, is there a general rule here?  If I'm going to Woolacombe or Putsborough, and low tide is bang in the middle of the day, when are the best conditions likely to be?   :please: :shrug:

Yeah, could have phrased all that better I'm sure  :-[

Probes

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#1508 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 02:56:21 pm
John, a good rule of thumb, the way i look at places before i ve sussed out exactly what happens and generally speaking anywya is most beach breaks are heavier at low tide (the result of steeper sea bed) and most breaks are nicest on the dropping tide.
As i remember puts picks more swell (it seems to rap in quite well) and is really quite fast at low tide, woolacombe is more chilled and works ok right throughtout the whole tide, and doesnt change its character very much.
...i think, im sure Chris will put me right.

SA Chris

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#1509 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 02:58:31 pm
AFAIK, Woolacombe is fine at any tide and I know Puts there are some rocks you can do with avoiding at high tide, but generally due to the big tide difference in the Bristol Channel, the N Devon Breaks are best surfed on a rising tide (the "push") as this can add half a foot or so to the swell size. So best conditions are most likely to be after the low tide, but if waves are big enough it's unlikely to make much difference.

But I can check Stormriders and make certain.

AFAIK. I think. I'm sure Granticus will put me right :)

john horscroft

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#1510 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 03:46:56 pm
Thanks Probes/Chris.  I'd checked Stormriders since I posted and it bears out all you've said about Woola and Puts (hey, look at me with the abbreviations).  Probably start at W till we find our feet and then maybe Widemouth and Saunton.  Hoping to do something more than stand up and come straight in this time  :bounce:

SA Chris

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#1511 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 03:57:34 pm
Cool, trust you have been practising pop ups and swimming since the last time.

Best advice I can give for going down the line of the wave on your mal board is take off slightly sideways (esp if the wave is breaking steeply) look down the line where you want to go, and don't be shy to shuffle forward on the board once you are moving if you think the wave will leave you behind.

john horscroft

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#1512 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 04:02:10 pm
 
Cool, trust you have been practising pop ups and swimming since the last time.

Best advice I can give for going down the line of the wave on your mal board is take off slightly sideways (esp if the wave is breaking steeply) look down the line where you want to go, and don't be shy to shuffle forward on the board once you are moving if you think the wave will leave you behind.
:ang: 'course I have Chris  :whistle:

Yeah, all too familiar with that feeling of being left behind!  Tend to jump up too near the back of the board so that's something to work on.  Taking off on the angle - that's my target then  :o

philo

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#1513 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 05:12:58 pm


a serious of videos that are clear and helpful.

some other videos if you check the same guy on getting the angling technique right etc etc

granticus

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#1514 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 07:05:49 pm
Quote
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance.  I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide.  So, is there a general rule here?

OK here is some local knowledge for you JH, to make your visit a winner :thumbsup:

The swell is good quality and gonna be pumping through from Thursday to Sunday looks like it'll disappear Monday.  The wind direction is perfect for everywhere as of Thursday morning and then stays that way for the whole weekend.  Friday and Sunday will be more beginner friendly in terms of size, Thursday and Saturday will be a bit bigger.

Tidal information,  BIG spring tides this weekend which makes a difference round here, on the ebb some of the life will be sucked out of the swell (could be useful on bigger days) and on the flow there'll be an extra foot or so.

On these big tides Croyde bay around low tide will be seriously heavy, rippy and breaking very shallow (I'd advise you steer well clear).  Mid to high tide will be mellower (always tends to be a tad bigger here than elsewhere esp. at low).

Wooly on a spring low will be breaking on shallow sand banks and quite heavy too.  Mid to high will be splendid and much more melow.

Putsborough best surfed mid to high, will be at least 1ft smaller than everywhere else, high tide will come right up the beach watch those rocks.  I doubt very much P-land will be heavy this weekend, it rarely gets heavy and is generally gutless mellow.  On the ebb the swell usually dies off unless it's really big..

Saunton will be fine at any stage of tide (mid to high being better) and is always a mellow wave ideal for starting out.

All of the above will be heaving this weekend although Saunton and Wooly are BIG beaches so you can walk away from the crowds.  Halfway down the beach between Wooly and Puts is usually quiet, good parking above the beach here then walk down through dunes.

Waccy Ho! Often overlooked, generally quieter, best surfed low to mid/three quarters (before the tide hits the pebble ridge).

Widemouth - is similar to Saunton (mellow mid to high is better) as you head west the waves tend to get bigger.  Low to mid tide beachies (Northcott, Duckpool, Sandymouth) north of Bude but still in Cornwall can all be supergood on their day (depends on sand banks/tides) and don't get as crowded.

You have picked a perfect time to come ;)


SA Chris

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#1515 Re: One for the surfers
October 06, 2010, 09:03:10 pm
sigh. I could really do with any of that shit right now. Looks like we have a weekend of onshores. maybe the wind might drop for a bit so we can "enjoy" some messy wind swell.

john horscroft

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#1516 Re: One for the surfers
October 07, 2010, 09:10:39 am
Cheers Granticus!  Brilliant surf round-up!  :thumbsup:

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#1517 Re: One for the surfers
October 07, 2010, 01:59:39 pm
The swell is definitely here, just surfed Porthtowan at lunchtime, 4ft with a strong offshore, really hollow and pumping!  ;D

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#1518 Re: One for the surfers
October 07, 2010, 02:52:10 pm
No worries... 

Surfed Croyde on the backing tide, this morning before work, 2 to 4ft, strong offshores, barrels a plenty, got dropped in on by Lyndon Wake :spank: Kids!


gme

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#1519 Re: One for the surfers
October 07, 2010, 03:28:18 pm
Luck bastards

Flat on east, nothing looking good for Scotland yet, (must be the worse TE season for years there has always been at least one or two good north coast swells by now, 2010 none) and no chance of getting down SW.

Funny how i can not surf for weeks in the summer and not be bothered but as soon as we have a good run of surf i want more and more and more.

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#1520 Re: One for the surfers
October 07, 2010, 03:49:37 pm
Big Swell dropping off!!!

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#1521 Re: One for the surfers
October 08, 2010, 08:08:15 am
This is very good




Idol eyes

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#1522 Re: One for the surfers
October 10, 2010, 10:18:50 pm
Fistral, took a wild wipeout, 120ft out back... clean up set, over 5ft... took the fist wave, made the bottom turn, started to slide out!!! gauged an early line... suffered wind chop as I blew up the wave and tried to hit the lip...ditched the board as I kicked out, got pitched and subsequently Drilled by the lip on impact!
I hit the bottom...
Leash wrapped round both legs...
Opened my eyes and saw the most amazing colour of green,
Pushed upward and went on spin cycle...
One of the most humbling experiences I have ever had, nothing but awe... three on the head!!!
Its been a great three or four days, sporting a Jim Morrison "Horse Latitude's" spray job on my W.E. 9.2 performance noserider!!!
Marrocco booked for the 18th! come on Anchors.



philo

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#1523 Re: One for the surfers
October 11, 2010, 01:42:27 am
its a beautiful feeling when you know your caught on the inside and shore side of your board after a wipe out.  First time i took a board to the head to day and thankfully wasnt that bad.  Its been a bit of a blowout here with some disgusting swells with nothing clean for a few days.  Hopefully tomorrows low tide/ change to the tide coming in will allow for some cleaner sets

SA Chris

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#1524 Re: One for the surfers
October 11, 2010, 09:03:43 am
sporting a Jim Morrison "Horse Latitude's" spray job on my W.E. 9.2 performance noserider!!!

Pic?

Blown out shite here all weekend.

 

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