[SA Chris]

Noo. Onshore here all weekend. Got a long weekend coming up though, and charts are looking vaguely promising for the deserted beaches of NW Scotland. (although I have probably cursed it now).

[Falling Down]

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's. 

Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding.

Yeah... you're right.

[granticus]

So, anybody been out recently?

Onshore South/ South Westerly gales = some of the more secret spots in N. Devon/ Somerset firing up.  It felt like a proper winter swell yesterday.  Lynmouth was all time, the spring tides made for some interesting exits from the water at high tide, the safest of which appeared to be paddling into the harbour and the most 'interesting' involved getting dumped onto the rocks by the shorebreak.  We hit Lynmouth at low (avoiding the getting in problem) and a.n.other break on the push upto high (as it turned out the tide eventually got too high for this reef).  However, before it crapped out, we scored some nice chunky barrels.  Returned to Lynmouth  to watch people attempting to get back in when it got dark.  Can't remember a summer that when we have been able to surf these spots so regularly.  Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?

[SA Chris]

Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?

Are we fuck.

[Idol eyes]

Solid two week swell still here in Newquay!!!

[granticus]

Unlucky Chris...  Looks like the south west is getting all the fun.  Lynmouth was easily overhead on Monday which generally only happens on winter swells.  Back to small onshore dribble at moment though. 

Heading down for a few days in Cornwall next week, hoping to surf not sure where but I will not be going to Fistral!   

[Bubba]

Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

[granticus]

Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

Point by point. 

It's about to go really badly wrong.

It's already gone badly wrong.

It is infact OK if he is lucky or alternatively potentially life threatening.

The wave is unmistakeable.  Teahupoo.  Your unfortunate chap has taken off too deep/ too late.  Ideally he should already be under the lip and on his feet.  He has the full force of the ocean lining up behind him and he is heading towards a shallow live coral reef.  It may end with some nasty cuts or worse.  I have only heard of one surfer that has died as a result of wiping out here which is surprising.  Although I'm sure there have been some properly nasty incidents.  Like someone got scalped! 

Thinking about paddling into one of these beasts gives me a horrible feeling in my stomach...  Check how thick the lip is, the flats look super shallow, this lot have the right idea.... stay in the channel and watch.

[Bubba]

that just looks like suicide to me - amazing photo.

[underground]

Brill photos!

Here's something I've never *really* known the answer to, if someone would care to help: What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?

In fact an in depth description of wave hydraulics would be good! 

[SA Chris]

What do you mean by siginficance? Thick heavy waves have a lot of weight behind them, and will pound you into the bottom or reef if you screw it up.

I can highly recommend Surf Science by Tony Butt and Paul Russell if you want to learn about waves and their formation

[nash1]

What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?

Lip thickness is a sign of power in the wave, it has a lot to do with the wavelength of the swell and puts major water volume into the wave. A 10ft wave with a short wavelength has nowhere near as much water in it as a 2ft wave with a proper wavelength. That's why tsunamis are so nasty. There are loads of waves hitting coastlines every day that are way bigger than most tsunamis, but the tsumami lips are like 2km thick, that's a lot of water and power.

[SA Chris]

Be amazing to get it right though.

[SA Chris]

And just when I'm bemoaining lack of waves, a random southerly swell appears. Bizarrely, clean and in well defined sets. Had a fantastic longboard session until it got dark last night, most of the session on my tod out back, picking off the set waves.

Felt like autumn; cool air, warm water, and nobody about. Sweet.

[nash1]

2 hours before sunset, 6ft reefy lefts with almost no wind last night, peachy. The autumn is on our doorstep 

[Idol eyes]

Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...

[granticus]

Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow.  Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in.  Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness.  Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth.  Happy days.

On the thickness of lips.....
Thick lipped waves are more than likely going to be barreling waves which is what a lot of surfers are after.  (You can't beat getting barreled!).  The downside is they can be dangerous and hard to surf.  A thick lipped wave is faster and harder to get into.  You better get your timing right or you will end up in the lip heading down.  Although swell has a lot to do with the power and thus the girth of a wave, the set up is also important.  ie.  Saunton Sands will never throw out a big thick lip because the beach is so flat and the wave has nothing to trip up on.  On the other hand Croyde at low tide can have very defined and shallow banks of sand.  The waves come out of deep water and hit the banks, heh presto the wave kicks up and slams down with power.  Now apply this theory to a shallow reef where waves come out of deep water.  You get the idea.  What is going on under the water, the shape of the beach, sand banks, reef etc.  is very important in creating a powerful barreling fat lipped wave.  So if your starting out go for gently shelving beach much easier to ride and learn in this environment...

[Johnny Brown]

Just spent a week in Abersoch with limited opportunities to pursue my normal distractions, and had my yearly epiphany that I should really get in the water more. Any of you guys have an old mini-mal you might like to sell? I don't really fancy shelling out for a new one , nor lugging around/ being smacked on the head by a bic one.

Amazing how Teahupoo always looks like it has the entire ocean behind it about to fill in a puddle someone has somehow created. Snorkelled along the edge of a similar reef not far away on a calm day and the way the reef drops vertically into the abyss is incredible, and a bit unnerving.

[Falling Down]

JB... I was there all last week and I think we waved at one another the harbour.  You didn't miss much surf wise though as I only went in twice earlier in the week.

I'll ask around about a mini mal.

[SA Chris]

I am thinking of selling mine, but hardly the most convenient place for you to get it.

I missed this, btw, quite amusing

surferspath.com/news/shark-shield-surf-anti-shark-device-eaten-by-shark

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah, FD, clocked you lording it up outside The Sandpiper n'all. I know the surf was shit, but not as shit as the 'tragic light' landscape photography prospects, soloing on Cilan or a gopping Porth Ysgo.

How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...

[Falling Down]

Oh dear... it was my birthday that day and I was very drunk by the time I was outside the sandpiper.

Off topic but if we get a dry spell do you fancy some sea cliff action??

[SA Chris]

How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...

No idea, will have a think. It's a Roger Cooper (fairly reputable S Wales shaper) conventional Glass fibre board, I think about 7'10 or so. It's in pretty good nick, couple of minor dings on tip and tail that have been well repaired and expected pressure dents on top. PM me an email address and I will send some pics.

[Johnny Brown]

I'm a mere 5'8", would a 7'10" board be a bit big? I know nothing, please bear that in mind.

[SA Chris]

Depends on your level and what you have ridden before I guess? I am 6ft 2 and 13 st(ish) and it served me right through from first surfs (i only hired a swell board once before I got it) to overhead waves on the Hebrides last year.
 
I'm a bit out of my depth to be honest as I have only ever really ridden about half a dozen boards. I'm sure other people will be able offer more info. FD you remember my board?