I believe that your dislike of training has held you back almost as much as a blindspot for technique has held back others. Maybe that's fine by you, but might you exceed your own aspirations with some deadhangs and a few laps on Powerband?
Quote from: Johnny Brown on Today at 01:04:41 PMEvery time I go indoor climbing a little piece of me dies. I'd sooner fuck-off the opportunity to progress in areas currently beyond my ken and do what I want to do/love than get sweaty with a bunch of body-nazi's, even though I accept that to do so I may not improve on my own turf as much as I might wish.
As much as you like to believe Leo and Ben learnt to climb purely on the rocks, have never stepped a foot indoors, do not even know, nor need to know what training is and are by far the best climbers Britain has ever produced.
Regarding the school, every world class climber from Britain, bar one, has regularly used the school room.
If you had actually read what I wrote rather than imagining it based on your barmy mental image of me, you might know that I don't think along any of those lines.
Anyway this is beside the point as I have never said training is not essential if you want to be world class, nor that being strong is somehow bad. Apart from my initial statement, which I quickly admitted was a flippant wind-up (and a mighty successful one it would seem), all I have said is that I meet a lot of folk committed to training who would do well to make do with the strength they have for a bit and work on their technique. I don't see why that is such a heresy.
But since the school has been built I can only think of one 'current' world class climber who does not, or has not trained there. Can you enlighten my naive, limited, barmy view of the world to include any more people?
QuoteBut since the school has been built I can only think of one 'current' world class climber who does not, or has not trained there. Can you enlighten my naive, limited, barmy view of the world to include any more people?I think you need to enlargen your view of the definition of the word 'climber' beyond bouldering and sport.
I think it is hypocritical to start your climbing media career by openly accusing Ben Heason of being a liar, on the basis of him having limited evidence for his ascents, and then to go on to report several ascents with limited evidence of your own. Had I made such accusations I would have wanted my own career to be whiter than white.
How could you have possibly 'overlooked' my evidence? How do you even know I have 'limited' evidence for my ascents? You have never asked me who I climb with. You have never asked me what evidence I have. You have never asked me anything along these lines. Ever.
If I remember correctly Adam, you made similar remarks when I climbed Careless Torque. I phoned both you and Dense (the other accuser) up and offered to go back the next day, with both of you and climb it again, in return for an apology on my success. You declined. Not me, YOU.
Nevertheless you continued making unfounded accusations, Which, I believe was entirely unfair, but I put up with it and moved on. You on the other hand have continued your cowardly ways.
As I can recall on numerous occasions you, making defamatory remarks about Ben Heason. The only difference is you decided to keep stum when it all came out, although even then that did not stop you continuing your 'two faced' cowardless attacks on Ben.
My career is in fact 'whiter than white' as you so naively put it. I have witnesses and proof for everything i have ever done. Just because you do not know the extent of the proof I have, by way of never asking, does not make me a liar.
Just because you do not know the extent of the proof I have, by way of never asking, does not make me a liar.
I agreed Ben had little evidence for his ascents, however I have never said that I don't believe him.
If I don't know about all this evidence, despite seeing you in the pub and talking to your best friends about it
Why don't you get some of your videos online? I'm sure Doyle and Uncle between them have the expertise even if you haven't. They would serve both to inspire your fans and dispel your critics, I can't see there being any better way really
I do believe however that this recent spate of dissatisfaction with the state of funding for climbing comes from those firmly entrenched in the training mentality. I don't know if the amount of work they put in makes it feel like a full time job. That this compulsion makes them feel they deserve something back.
QuoteI agreed Ben had little evidence for his ascents, however I have never said that I don't believe him.You have confirmed everything I thought of you. Do you honestly believe that comment?
Categorically not. Until people present themselves as doubters, I have no intention whatsoever in allowing them to save face by me putting up climbing videos on the net. It is the reason there is nothing up on the net at the moment and the reason nothing will ever go up. Like I said, until people outright question me, I will be doing nothing to prove them wrong. It would be unfair for me to present proof and never know the full extent of who these doubters are and exactly what they doubted.
That's fair enough. I assumed (wrongly) because you'd posted it up that you had a vested interest in what you'd written.
My memory of that phone call is that we concluded that Doyle had got the wrong end of the stick;
to hide what is going on now is to deny future generations a historical context and creates a gap in the folklore
QuoteQuoteI agreed Ben had little evidence for his ascents, however I have never said that I don't believe him.You have confirmed everything I thought of you. Do you honestly believe that comment?I though you were studying Law? Surely you understand expressing doubt does not necessarily mean outright disbelief. I still maintain there is not enough evidence on this for anyone but Ben to know the truth
I really don't follow your logic here. Most people present their evidence up front and as a result never have any doubters. You seem to be on some kind of mission to actually create doubters? And then meet them? Why? It seems bizarre.
people present their evidence up front and as a result never have any doubters
Why must the concepts of wanting to know the history of an ascent and desiring a degree of verification from top climbers as a matter of course, be endlessly conflated with calling someone a liar??? Climbers always want to know a bit of background but these days don’t want to ask because to do so seems to imediately to attract accusations of doubting, when all they are is curious. What ever happened to….Quote from: ”Buoux 8c” to hide what is going on now is to deny future generations a historical context and creates a gap in the folklore
Top climber doesn't mean tallest climber
The even eager beaver could also find footage of my climbing a handful of V12/13 boulder problems in the Gunks on the Urban Climber webpage. These where not done in a short session, and again I believe show my ability to climb stuff of this grade with ease.