[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi All,
        i have the beacon fingerboard. (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=393) Which seems adequate enough a board for myself. However i would like to extend my variety for fingerboard workouts. I'm thinking of remounting the board on some wider plywood(above a double doors wide door frame) which would give me scope for adding more holds to the side of the fingerboard. Anyone got any suggestions? I fancy making some wooden holds as the resin can be a tad painful after a workout at the wall to hang off. Anyone got any suggestions or examples of their custom fingerboards?


Cheers
Tim

[Serpico]

What's important when training finger strength is not the shape of the hold, but the shape of your hand on the hold. I train on a single campus rung edge, using 3 grips: 3 finger open hand, 4 finger oh, and 4 finger half crimp (no thumb). There's strength enough crossover between these grips to cover most hold types. Next time you train on your board look at the shape of your hand across the different holds, you might find that you're only training your predominant hand position, no matter what the hold.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Serpico,

What about the size of the hold? Think it makes a difference if the edge being used is 2cm deep, 1cm deep or so on?  i was also thinking about maybe trying to replicate poor holds off projects which are barely hangable. Think its ever worth shaping a similar shaped hold and doing some hangs off it?

Cheers
Tim

[Serpico]

"What about the size of the hold? Think it makes a difference if the edge being used is 2cm deep, 1cm deep or so on?"
That's the progression element: start on big holds, move to smaller holds as you improve. 
" i was also thinking about maybe trying to replicate poor holds off projects which are barely hangable. Think its ever worth shaping a similar shaped hold and doing some hangs off it? "
Only maybe for pinches. Generally body position has more to do with poor holds than you'd think. For specific pocket training just use 2 fingers (or 1) on an edge.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Serpico,
              thanks for the advice mate. Aye was thinking about mainly pinches, Although being stronger on some of the holds of current project (undercuts/sidepulls) would be good, i am able to hang all the holds.

Cheers
Tim