[Bonjoy]

 Snatch! 7c+? is the obvious hard one mover on the front (south) side of the Brad Pit boulder. It has been clean and obvious for a long time now and tried without sucess by quite a few, including new prob machine John Welford and the crimp beast Harris. It involves pulling on to a pair of opposing diagonal crimps on a steep wall and throwing violently for a good lip. I suggested it a while back as a suitable outlet for Paul's brutal wall strength and sure enough he managed it today in one session!
 Name:

Snatch!, (With brad pitt being on the same block 'an all)

Grade:

Grade, hmmm i'm really not sure of that one, maybe 7C but i dont know, it seems so improbable to move until you do.

I registered surprise an obvious well tried project in the middle of the Plantation turned out to be only 7c.
 

Maybe snatch is harder, i'm unsure? i certainly was fucked afterwards and trying pretty hard.
fuck maybe give it 8a i dunno, i guess its similar to the joker, feels nails hard then it goes and your left wondering why you cant do it everytime, i just dont wanna overgrade stuff...its harder than schoolboy and stuperman i guess.

 Sequence:

There seemed to be two obvious sequences, one leading with the Left and one with the Right, firstly i tried the left as it fealt about doable but i just kept popping off before my hand latched the jug so i went for an alternate approach, putting your foot more front on its possible to throw yourself wildly leftwards via a kung fu leg, everything opens up as you hit the top and your foot (or my foot) pops, Such a cool move, something like those Loskott dyno's you see pictures of.

Pics:

 

[Nibile]

hes on fire.
waddage coming.

[Sloper]

I've got some projects he can have a crack at, I reckon finishing the 'new kitchen door project' is about 8a+ but the 'sash window renovation' is solid 8b.

[Dr T]

dag nam it and I've just finished completely re-doing bathroom for the wife project 

seriously thou good effort-would love to see vid-it must be a wicked move....

[Somebody's Fool]

Good effort Paul.  Looks innocuous this, but it's nails.  I remember Matt Donnelly getting very close to this about three years ago.  He was going through one of his 'psyched' periods.  Don't know if this is noteworthy.  Probably not.

[Johnny Brown]

Writing the new guide at the mo - I'm planning to put this in at V11. (V grades not my choice)
Any beef?

[andy_e]

Surely V10 if he gave it 7c+?

(warning- grade geekery is forecasted)

[Bonjoy]

 8a on Paul's scorecard which is more uptodate.

[andy_e]

Fair enough...

[grimer]

Writing the new guide at the mo - I'm planning to put this in at V11. (V grades not my choice)
Any beef?

Well, give it English 6c if you must Johnny

[Fiend]

One move V11? Surely more than English 6c. In fact given it's a single move, wouldn't it be entirely appropriate to have a tech grade anyway? 7a? 7b? !


P.S. While you're here grimer, can I point out that Swings HVS 5c (between Heaven Crack area and Pedlar's Area) has a bastard hard start for that grade... Cheers.

[Johnny Brown]

What, at HVS 5c you weren't expecting summat hard? Lets face it, its not 6a is it, you should be happy with the 5c I say.

[Fiend]

What, at HVS 5c you weren't expecting summat hard?

True....but it felt as hard as, say, the start of Down To Earth at Bamford - and I like lunging for handjams.

Actually I think I have more issues with the so-called HVS grade. The E1 to the right is piss compared to this.

Anyway, hi-jack over, sorry Paul.

[Pantontino]

Grimer, JB, I'm just curious how the decision was made about using V grades (plus Brit tech in brackets) in BMC guidebooks. Who decides and what was the reasoning?

[Mark Lloyd]

I thought you were a champion of V grades Simon, V8+ and all that.
Anyway how that NW bouldering guide going ?

[grimer]

Pub in Leek, few years ago:

"I think we should put bouldering into the guide."

"OK"

"Should we just use English grades. They seem ok."

"No, let's use a bouldering grade."

"There are two systems in use. Let's pick one."

"Ok, we've picked one."

"Whose round is it?"

[Johnny Brown]

Grimer, JB, I'm just curious how the decision was made about using V grades (plus Brit tech in brackets) in BMC guidebooks. Who decides and what was the reasoning?

Plus, at the time there were no guides about using font grades, so these were seen as a bit risky. Secondly with the guides aiming to have a wide appeal, it was always the intention to have UK tech grades as well. Obviously having font and uk tech together is potentially confusing, whereas V grades are obviously different.

Right or wrong, the decision was made back then and the plan is to stick with it for the whole series. I'm not a huge fan but I'd rather have V grades than lose the uk tech grades.

[Bonjoy]

I take it one move 8as like Snatch! and the Joker will be given english tech 7b?

[Johnny Brown]

My opinion has always been that 7b starts at hard 8a or 8a+. Obviously by definition this refers to the hardest move, the rest of the problem is not relevant for a uk tech grade, this is especially pertinent if used in conjunction with a bouldering grade. Neither The Joker or Snatch! would seem to fit this criteria.

[r-man]

Anyone ever tried the line to the left? Looked at this the other week and thought it seemed like a vaguely possible sitstart.

[Pantontino]

I thought you were a champion of V grades Simon, V8+ and all that.
Anyway how that NW bouldering guide going ?

As I've said before, V8+ is really just Font grades in disguise. I'm currently undecided, although ultimately more inclined to use Font grades.

The Lakesbloc bouldering guide is still an ongoing project, we've just been too busy with the North Wales Rock guide, that's all.

[chappers]

The Lakesbloc bouldering guide is still an ongoing project, we've just been too busy with the North Wales Rock guide, that's all.

finish it!!!!!!!




please

[andy_e]

The Lakesbloc bouldering guide is still an ongoing project, we've just been too busy with the North Wales Rock guide, that's all.

finish it!!!!!!!




please

Ditto. I reckon using font is the way forward, we're already converting most grades into font grades here in the quarries...

[Fiend]

Pub in Leek, few years ago:

"I think we should put bouldering into the guide."

"OK"

"Should we just use English grades. They seem ok."

"No, let's use a bouldering grade."

"There are two systems in use. Let's pick one."

"Ok, we've picked one."

"Whose round is it?"

Heh, the cogs and gears of bureaucracy at the BMC seem particularly well lubricated in that case!

For what it's worth, I think the combination of V grades and tech grades are the best possible combination for describing the problem, I'm glad you chose them, it makes things clear and obvious what you're getting.

[grimer]

glad to hear Fiend.

There were other reasons, of course. As JB said, at the time, there were no Font-based guides around. Now there is one.

So it very much was just a case of select one of them. The reasons I personally favoured the system we used were:

The 'V' bit stops any confusion with English tech grades or sport grades
It's a very clear, linear system
It kept the english tech grades, which i think are still good grades.
As far as I can remember at the time, most areas were using Vs as the grading system (Panton's bouldering column, Yorkshire, North wales, Northumberland) so it makes sense if everywhere in the country used the same system

Compared to the demographic of the market that Ru's book is aimed at, or of people who use this board, the BMC guides are not aimed at the dedicated boulderer exclusively. They have to cater much more for lower-grade climbers as well. Both systems break down a bit in the lower end. In this respect, I feel, the Font system is worse than the V. Font 5 means something to avoid, because you won't get up it. Things only get easy again in the 6s. The tech grade was put in more as a guide to break down the lower Vs, and still is useful up to 6a or 6b, and beyond that, is definitely interesting.

Having said that, nothing's set in stone, but to change a system half way through a series would need a pretty hefty reason. As far as I can see that is not there.